Anunt Degustare – Bordeaux & Chateauneuf Soiree

Incepem noul sezon al degustarilor cu o clasica comparatie a catorva superlative din doua zone celebre ale lumii vinului frantuzesc: Bordeaux si Chateauneuf du Pape. Am ales etichete foarte bune, foarte bine sau maxim cotate de catre profesionisti si, pentru o experienta completa, din vintage-uri variate.

2006 Weingut Wittmann Westhofen ‘S’ Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germania (88 pct)
1996 Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc, Franta (91 pct)
1995 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Franta (95 pct RP)
2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Franta (100 pct WE)
2006 Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan, Franta (95 pct RP)
2010 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee, Rhone, Franta
(98 pct RP)
2006 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, Franta (93 pct WE)
1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, Franta (94 pct WF)

Ne intalnim joi, 23 februarie, de la 19:30, la Seva Cuisine (Lakeview Building, Barbu Vacarescu 301 – 310).

Sunt 12 locuri disponibile si fiecare costa 390 de lei (vinurile, o gustare si apa). Pentru confirmarea rezervarii este necesara plata in avans. Ma puteti contacta pe cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau la telefon 0723 240 102.

4 vintages of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou

It’s been a while since I posted on this blog even though my drinking habits grew and expanded with some serious wines. Just could not find the drive to write. This time however I felt compelled to share my experience drinking this absolutely exceptional vintages from Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou.

This is a producer that sits on top of my short list of Bordeaux producers, a winery that I visited in 2011 and was impressed over the last years by the continuous quality of its wines every single vintage. Even in 2013 that seems a bleak vintage for red Bordeaux, Ducru-Beaucaillou managed to produce a wine that is deemed to be the wine of the vintage.

Met last night with 6 friends at La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge in Herastrau to drink these wines. Initially the plan was to have only the 2005 and 2009 that were bought from a store in Monaco, but I volunteered to bring bottles of 2006 and 2010. The two bottles of 2005 and 2009 were uncorked at noon together with 2006, while the 2010 I uncorked personally around 18:30 and left to breath in a decanter until about 9:00 pm.

Just a few things before the tasting notes:

• quality for Ducru-Beaucaillou is at its highest and it has been like this since 2003 when the new management team came on board.
• the 2009 vintage got a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker and at its launch was the most expensive Ducru ever released.
• 2010 was awarded a 98 points by Parker and 100 points by James Suckling. When it was released Bruno Borie made a brilliant move by releasing the wine 10% cheaper in price compared to 2009, giving more confidence to its buyers that it is a well established and customer concerned producer. I know this because I was in Bordeaux when it was released.
• 2005 is a vintage that will be spectacular even over the next 20-30 years from now.

And now the wines:

The bottle of 2006 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou had a more than usual development and the wine felt 10-15 years older than it should actually be. This is not a general case for the 2006 Ducru as this wine can age. I had unfortunately the bad luck to purchase this particular faulty bottle. The wine shows over mature flavors and there is no point rating it as it is just an isolated case. NR

The 2005 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou is a completely different story and from now on things start to get spectacular. This 11 years old wine combines freshness, complexity of aromas that came with aging and fresh fruit, developing nuances with every second and every sip in the glass. Still a bit shy on the nose compared to 2009 or even 2010, but very complete and balanced in every single way. Tannin is polished and velvety and bites the gums only in the long finish, rich fruit merrily gives flesh to its strong tannin structure that does not interfere at all on the palate. Very long. (96-97/100)

2009 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou comes with fireworks, like a carousel that takes your senses to new highs when you least expect it and believe this is it, what else can it be ? This wine evolves in so many nuances as it sits in the glass and breathes that everybody was keeping their nose in the glass continuously like hunting dogs following the paths of their prey. It has everything: rich and lavish fruit, freshness, purity of aromas, complexity and depth, incredible depth actually. Taste is a symphony that swings again between rich sweet fruit, mineral freshness and rich sweet velvety tannin that pinches your gums from time to time just as a reminder of its greatness. This is a King-Kong wine. (99/100)

2010 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou would have certainly benefited from extensive aeration but it did not last much in the glasses. This was the biggest surprise of the night as it changed completely from the first to the last pour in the glasses. Initially shy and not very convincing on the nose, it did benefit from being served from Zalto Bordeaux Grand Cru glasses. Last 2 glasses were spectacular. There is certainly more minerality and freshness, and least lavish fruit here compared to 2009, but there is more precision, focus and intensity on the palate. This has a more classic Bordeaux side, where pencil shavings and paprika step a bit more forward, however fruit seems to be fresher and very well represented. More supple, cleaner, more precision and more serious on the palate. Gravelly tannin, rich red fruit, cassis, graphite, coffee, there are so many things happening here. Another kaleidoscope and multi layered wine that I somehow feel closer to my heart. Very, very long finish as well. (99/100)

There was another bottle of 2000 Vega-Sicilia Unico opened after this wines but it showed a more developed character than normal. I am sure it was just an isolated bottle, as another Unico 2000 that I had in September was excellent.

For food we had fresh pasta ravioli with funghi porcini and osso bucco with fresh shaved white truffles, risotto with funghi porcini, and New Zealand lamb chops. The pairing between 2005 Ducru and lamb chops was perfect. For me lamb and well aged Bordeaux is a match made in heaven.

Rezerve Davino si Bordeaux – Anunt degustare

Probabil ati auzit de Flamboyant, varful de gama al lui Davino, producatorul din Dealu Mare. Dar daca v-as spune ca exista ceva si mai si, tot de la ei?

Relansam seria degustarilor cu doua mini-verticale ale high-end-ului Davino, nemaiintalnite pana acum: Rezerva Rosu si Rezerva Alb. Iar ca sa facem seara si mai atractiva, le combinam cu cateva Bordeaux-uri rasate.

Iata vinurile:

J. L. Denois Cremant Cuvee Classic Brut (nou in piata)

Davino Rezerva Alb 2012
Davino Rezerva Alb 2013

Davino Rezerva Rosu 2009
Davino Rezerva Rosu 2010
Davino Rezerva Rosu 2011

Chateau La Gaffelier 2010 (St-Emilion, RP 95, WE 95)
Chateau Duhart Milon 2010 (Pauillac, RP 96)
Chateau d’Aiguilhe 2010 (Castillon, JS 92-93, WS 92, CT 90)

Sunt 12 locuri disponibile.

Pretul este de 225 de lei de persoana si include vinurile, apa si o mica gustare. Puteti comanda a la carte din meniul restaurantului. Degustarea are loc Miercuri 26 Octombrie incepand cu ora 19:30 la restaurantul Dada din str Matei Voievod 94bis.

Plata participarii in avans este necesara pentru o rezervare ferma. Puteti rezerva prin email catre cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau apeland la 0723 240 102.

Dinner with Dom P Rose, Pavie, Troplong Mondot and Krug

Had dinner last night with a small crew of friends and between the 4 of us we shared some excellent wines. Started the night with Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee NV (I did not take a note of the ID sadly as Olivier Krug pointed to me early in the morning on Instagram) that is fresh and intense, showcasing great craftsmanship. It sports smoky citrus fruit, Granny Smith apple and fine pastry on the nose, and cleanse the mouth with razor sharp acidity and great freshness. Weightless on the palate in spite of its good intensity, it fades quickly from the glass. (94/100)

First red wine, 2001 Chateau Pavie, was decanted and aerated for about 2 h before being poured and it just got better with time in the glass. Very dark red garnet color. Initially a bit heady but quickly recovered and showed a complex and maturing but youthful nose filled with clean aromas of ink, plums, mint and cedar, later shifting to truffles. Beautiful nose. On the palate it is full and supple, gravely tannin still assertive on the finish, with good richness of texture, layers of blue fruit and mineral freshness. Long finish that lingers. This is superb today. (94-95/100)

A big surprise for me was Contador 2011, a Spanish red wine from Rioja that sells at super premium prices. It might have been too young today but I do not see the hype for it. The color is purple opaque. Nose is intense but today is too much oak influence. Rich aromas of dolce de lecce and Christmas cake cover any other aromas. It is smooth on the palate, with plenty of rich black fruit, and there is more focus here. Fairly long finish with dark chocolate and blueberry fruit. (91-92/100)

Popped and decanted on site with very little time to breath was the spectacular 2010 Chateau Troplong Mondot, a 99 points wine according to Robert Parker. The wine deserves it. This has a deep dark red garnet color. Nose is complex, youthful and so rich and intense. The wine states 16% alcohol on the back label but this is so well hidden and balanced under its rich layers of black fruit, fresh minerality and a skyscraper structure of smooth tannin, and every sip is like a revelation. Rich, heady, lavish sweet fruit, chocolate and ink on the palate, this is really good. Long finish. This might very well become a 100 points wine on the 10 years tasting from the vintage. (98/100)

There was a 2006 Chateau d’Yquem served from a half bottle but somehow it did not manage to find my glass. So last wine was Champagne Dom Perignon Rose 2003, a wine that I am personally worried how often I tasted this year. The inconvenient side is that every time it usually ends a long line of great wines and I cannot get the full grip of it. However, its vinosity is unquestionable, this is a wine especially designed for fine gastronomy. And considering its high price, how could that be different ? (96/100)

Ended the night sooner than other times but the two red Bordeaux wines were stunning and I am still thinking about them the second day.

It’s all about Bordeaux – wine tasting announcement

JOIN US AT
Mahala Restaurant, Calea Rahovei, Bucharest

Whites, reds, Margaux, St-Julien, Moulis en Medoc, St-Emilion, 100 points, 99 points, mature Bordeaux, young Bordeaux, vertical wine tasting, this event has it all.

We welcome you to join us and discover why is Bordeaux the most sought after wine.

2013 Clos des Lune ‘Lune d’Argent’, 91 pcts.

2010 Chateau Labegorce, Margaux, 94 pcts.
2009 Chateau La Tour Figeac, St-Emilion, 93 pcts.

2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, St-Julien, 100 pcts.
2010 Troplong Mondot, 1er Grand Cru Classe St-Emilion, 99 pcts.

1996 Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc, 90 pcts.
2002 Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc, 90 pcts.
2003 Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc, 91 pcts.

REGISTER NOW:
The price is 320 lei pp and includes the wines, water and the starter. Main course can be order “a la carte” from the restaurant menu.

Please send an email to cosmin.grozea@gmail.com or call +40744 240 108 and make your reservation. Advanced payment is mandatory.

Dinner with Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon, Unico, Evangile and more

Met my usual group of wine aficionados again last night for dinner and had some amazing wines. Started with this sublime vintage rose Champagne that I remember having last time about 1-2 years ago, but from a different vintage, 2000 if I remember correctly. We had all Champagne’s from the Zalto white wine glass that I find it complements a lot the way Champagne tastes like. Probably the only issue here would be that it does not stimulate enough the bubble persistence as the regular sparkling glass does. As aromas are concerned, I believe it focuses very well the full aromatic profile of the Champagne.

2002 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon Rose has a light coppery color with small and rich bubbles. This is a Champagne to keep in the glass and smell it over and over as it changes its aromas constantly. It starts fresh and classy with small red berries, dough and a salty seashell aroma, and, with air, it develops pomegranate and pink grapefruit. Gracious but powerful in the mouth, it has a strong backbone of acidity and discreet tannin, with layers of flavors that build like a skyscraper on the palate, creating a sense of immersion and depth. Long finish that goes on for good seconds. This is a very elegant and classy rose that I absolutely love. (96/100)

First red of the night was a high roller that got awarded a perfect 100 points by the Wine Spectator. The 2005 Chateau L’Evangile was decanted for about 2 hours before being consumed. The color is dark red garnet. Nose is already expressive and very complex, with a ripe but fresh profile. Lavish aromas of plums, sour cherry, dark chocolate and ink build a complex aromatic profile that just continues to develop new aromas in the glass. Silky smooth on the palate already in spite of its high velvety tannin structure, it is profound and rich, with lush flavors of chocolate and black cherry, gravel minerality and paprika. Long finish, combines fruit and bitter sweet chocolate in the lingering aftertaste. It disappeared from the glasses fairly quickly. (97/100)

A friend said that today it is at its peak and there is not more to develop from now on. I believe it will be on this plateau for many years to come and that it will develop into an even more interesting wine. Future will tell.

2010 seems to be THE vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. I believe most of the wines coming from reliable producers will develop and surprise wine drinkers in time. It should be a strong addition for the cellar.

Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino 2010 from Gaja is a youthful and powerful wine today. It sports a deep red garnet color. Even after 3 h in a decanter the wine continues to be shy in revealing its full aromatic profile. There are of course fruity aromas of black cherry, sour cherry and blackberry, well complemented by spices and blue flowers, but you can feel that not everything is disclosed yet. On the palate it is powerful, with assertive velvety tannin well dressed into rich layers of red and black fruit and spices, with fresh aromatic herbs that give depth. Long finish, tannin is assertive again and indicates patience is required. (94/100)

Also decanted for about 3-4 h, the 2007 Vega-Sicilia Unico is a wine to keep on smelling and discovering in the glass. It has a deep red garnet color, and since my last encounter this bottle shows a slightly different aromatic profile. Yes the oak is still there but not that prominent, and there’s a new layer of dill and orange peel that did not feel it before. Rich and powerful on the palate. (94/100)

Two more Champagne’s were served. A 2003 Dom Perignon Rose that has a deep red onion peel color with abundant mousse, a rich and vinous mouth-feel. It feels denser and has a completely different personality compared to the previous Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon. If that was ethereal, the Dom Perignon Rose is robust and swings in full throttle. (95-96/100)

Last wine of the night and a first time for me was the 2004 Champagne Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame. It has a light yellow lemon color, with tiny and rich bubbles. Fresh but complex on the nose, it has lots of citrus fruit, brioche and nuts, with a rich palate of pear and Granny smith apples, mouth watering acidity and appealing elegance. Long and refreshing citrus fruit finish. (94/100)

That was the end of a fun and engaging dinner with friends.

Lunch with Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2013

Went for lunch at the lovely Mahala restaurant on Calea Rahovei, a place I recently discovered and immediately fell in love with its food. The place is owned and run by the former chef from Casa di David and focuses on Romanian food. Excellent cooked. It was a family lunch and we celebrated the birthday of a dear person.

Had this great Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2013 that was decanted for about 30 minutes before being poured in the glass. The wine has a medium yellow gold color. Nose is intense and layered, filled with rich aromas of tropical fruits: mango, papaya and passion fruit, lemons and luxurious oak. Same story on the palate, abundant layers of yellow fruit mixed with smart oak and butterscotch, with lovely vibrant acidity and a perfect Pessac-Leognan sense of place. Long fruity and floral finish that lingers. (93-94/100)

Paired this wine with pumpkin flowers filled with Romanian “urda” cheese as appetizer and sea bass as a main course.

Great wines from a busy Monday: Rousseau, Pavie, Angelus, Krug, Dom Perignon etc

Siting quietly at the end of the week and analyzing all the wines I enjoyed on MON I have to give big credit to my liver for taking it all so bravely.  Week started on a high note on MON evening with a great dinner well planned in advance. It was initially planed to be for 7, but then it ended up with 10-11 participants. It was initially planned for 5-6 bottles and it turned up to be over 12 bottles.

Started with two Pinot Noir’s from 2 great producers:

2009 Clos des Lambrays has a surprisingly developed profile and just by sniffing it you would give it more age that it actually has. Nevertheless, the wine is drinking superbly by now and it has quite a ripe and black fruit dominated nose for a Pinot, where sour cherry and small berry fruits mix with spices and undergrowth. Very smooth and silky tannin, lots of fruits and aromatic black tea in the mouth. Medium plus long finish. (93/100)

2012 Clos de la Roche by Armand Rousseau is a beauty even as young as it is. There is freshness and elegance in this wine. Freshly picked red cherries, strawberries, cedar and potpourri on the nose, it has layers. Supple but well structured mouth, with assertive smooth tannin, plenty of red fruit and spices. Long finish, very much like an English black tea. Enjoyed more the Rousseau and finished the bottle almost alone. (94-95/100)

Our crowd was not a Pinot aficionado so next flight brought some smiles at the table. Two highly praised wines from St-Emilion, both classified in the top Class A category.

2007 Chateau Pavie is was more restrained than I expected and needed more time in the decanter to barely express itself. Dark color, aromas developed interestingly in time and showed plums, black cherry, cedar and spices, and oak still seems to be there. It has ample body and layers, velvety and fresh tannin. (92-93/100)

2007 Chateau Angelus was just better for me. It had a more clearly defined profile, sweet fruity tannin and overall more freshness. (94/100)

As night progressed and outside it became darker, so did the wines. The two crowned producers of Amarone: Quintarelli and Dal Forno have completely different styles yet both aim for the highest quality.

2003 Quintarelli Amarone shows superb freshness at 13 years old. It has a red fruit profile, with plenty of dried currants, red cherry, rum and chocolate, very smooth on the palate, while its thick texture gets freshness from the tannin structure. Long finish. (95/100)

2008 Dal Forno Amarone is all about black fruit, like a Dark Knight. Everything is more pronounced here: deep black cherry fruit, prunes, dark chocolate. Mouth is full, profound and richly layered, rich and abundant velvety tannin, heady, with lavish amounts of fruit. Long finish. (95/100)

I am a bit puzzled here because I enjoyed Quintarelli more for its red fruit and freshness, but somehow got myself attracted to the dark side of Dal Forno. I am really not a fan of Amarone style wines simply because there is too much sweetness and ripeness for my taste. Also, these are heady wines where alcohol is usually around 15-16% and 1 or 2 glasses feels just too much. However, I simply cannot deny the craftsmanship and quality of these 2 wines.

2010 Palazzi from Tenuta Trinoro is a 100% Merlot and there are plenty of similarities to an Amarone. Deep opaque dark red color. Nose is rich and intense with prunes, chocolate, spices and meat. Velvety tannin, lavish black fruit and chocolate palate, it is long. (93/100)

Patrick Piuze is a rising star in Chablis and it was a first time for me to try one of its wines. 2012 Patrick Piuze Chablis Terroir Decouverte shows a riper yellow fruit profile that you would not expect from such a young Chablis. There is white melon, peach and toast on the nose, while it explodes on the palate with rich layers of stone fruit, butterscotch and citrus, with a distinct stone like minerality. Medium long and very surprising. If there is something missing here I would say a certain precision. (92/100)

2011 Olivier Leflaive Corton-Charlemagne seems to have it all: precision, depth, freshness and balance. Nose is all about citrus fruit and gun powder, with slight amounts of butter and toast, mouth is all about precision, freshness and elegance. There is richness of fruit, a lively and vibrant acidity and a fairly long finish. Wine was open at lunch and properly aerated. (93/100)

A Dom Perignon Magnum 2000 started the flight of Champagne’s. Very mineral, almost like a Riesling from Mosel, but very intense both on the nose as on the palate. This is starting to drink very well now. (93/100)

Champagne Krug Rose Brut was the first rose of the night. This is a Rose for the day. It has a light coppery color, fresh and intense nose of small berries, slate like minerality and grapefruit. Amazing weightless texture, layered and rich, you can drink a lot. A second bottle was opened, that well it drinks. (94/100)

Champagne Dom Perignon Vintage Rose 2003 is a rose for the night and it is not for its more intense darker coppery color. This is fuller and heavier in the mouth, but also with a vinous character. Rich, layered and decadent palate, it makes an impression on you. (94-95/100)

We already passed midnight, but there was more wine. 2008 Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion was opened and briefly decanted before being poured in glasses. The wine is classic textbook Bordeaux, but from the high class: rich but tempered and elegant. Lots of cassis, pencil shavings and typical Pessac-Leognan character. Red cherry, cassis and gravely tannin, very fulfilling on the palate. Long. (94/100)

Not to mention that by this time everybody was full and when Batman came to fancily deliver a bottle of Champagne Krug Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2000, everybody foolishly (retrospectively) refused to open it. At that moment it felt like it was enough. Today I believe big things can happen in the spur of the moment.

An out of ordinary dinner in Bordeaux: 1925, 1955 and more

Last year I spent a whole week in Bordeaux between September 29th and October the 2nd. Every day I visited 4-5 wineries and I ended the week with a very special and unusual dinner organized by Olivier Bernard and his wife, the owners of Domaine de Chevalier from Pessac-Leognan and several other properties in Bordeaux, at their residence which coincides to be the actual winery of Domaine de Chevalier.

I was told in advance by the person who invited me there, how things would go: there are no more than 10-11 people that attend, mainly wine critics and people from the wine business, and the event happens only once per year. The uniqueness of this dinner is that, Olivier Bernard chooses and serves all wines blind, only the very first wine is shown what it is. From that moment on, all wines served should have only one thing in common: the last digit of the first wine’s vintage will remain the same for the whole line-up of wines. Otherwise, sky is the limit in terms of region, appellations, countries of origin and span of the vintages.

Before dinner there was obviously a pre tasting of different wines (about 15-20) made by Olivier in several appellations of Bordeaux and a visit of the whole Domaine de Chevalier winery. I noticed the most unusual one single barrel of fermenting juice and grapes made by Domaine de la Solitude (same ownership) from a tiny, very old parcel of 200 years old vines that has a life and reputation of its own. Only 1 single barrel made of this very special wine.

Dinner brought together several British wine critics, an American negociant with a reputation in Bordeaux and Internationally as big as the Statue of Liberty, the two Bernard’s and some lost Romanians that made it together with me at the event. I hope my friends will not take any offense. 🙂

Dinner started in their living room with small finger food appetizers and a Magnum of 1975 Champagne Veuve Clicquot Carte d’Or Brut which at that moment in time was the highest quality level Champagne of Veuve Cliquot. La Grande Dame came into existence a few years later, around 1980. This was a surprisingly vibrant sparkling that naturally shade most of its bubbles by now, but filled with live acidity and a rich toffee caramel like nose and dense taste. Simply stunning. (94/100)

From this moment on, we were on thin ice. Olivier takes great joy from putting wine specialists and people from the trade into hot seats. I’m saying this in the most candid possible way as I have great sympathy and respect for this Gentleman.

We took our seats at the impeccably arranged table in a separate room and first flight of wines was served: two whites, similar color, completely different aromatic profiles. One was vivid and reminded of a well aged Riesling with a very clean nose of stone fruit, the other showed a more pronounced aging, a citrus dominated nose and not as clean or generous. The American negociant nailed what I believed to be a Riesling: it was a superb 1985 Puligny-Montrachet from Domaine Leflaive, a time when Domaine Leflaive was the pioneer of quality in white Burgundy. Outstanding quality at that village level. Second was Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 1985, still alive but more of an aged man.

First red wine of the night was a first for me. The oldest wine I have ever tasted. Its color was not showing it, because there was still some medium ruby red next to the brick rim, while the nose was full of tertiary aromas. On the palate there was just a tiny, discreet pale of some dried red currant. Not necessarily something that you would enjoy as a whole bottle, but for what it was, it transcended time: 1925 Chateau Cos d’Estournel. It is not a wine I would recommend for acquisition, but if you would get the chance to find it at a good price, you should try it. Of course, it is more of a gamble as provenance is crucial, so if you feel adventurous follow your urge.

The second red served of the same flight showed a more intense presence of red fruit, but somehow didn’t seem to hold much better that the 1925. The 1955 Chateau Grand Puy Lacoste was not the wine that other people reminded to be from other tastings as I was told. At this point nobody had any clues about these two wines.

New flight consisted of three wines and had several things in common, but for us being offered blind the most important was the vintage. As a start. Then came the origin and the actual wine producer itself.

Now I have to confess that I take great pride in being able to surprise the audience and, more importantly, the host the this lovely dinner that started to see me with different eyes from that moment on, when I nailed the best wine of the flight and probably the red of the dinner.

I do have to share with you the circumstances of this impressive – even for me – achievement. The first thing that I noticed was the color: having a 1955 before and knowing that 1965 was not a good vintage in Bordeaux – well I knew these wines were Bordeaux from their nose – I saw that based on the color and intensity of nose it was older than a 1985, and knowing we have only 5 ending vintage wines, it has to be a 1975. I got that confirmation from Olivier.

We eliminated the Right Bank as the originating appellations. So we were left with the Left Bank. Now there are several outstanding wines made in 1975 and we took out Pauillac as being one of the appellation of these wines. So the fact that I had some Leoville Las Cases several times in the past, gave me the upper hand to make a good impression for Romania: nailed the 1975 Chateau Leoville Las Cases. That felt good indeed.

1975 Chateau Leoville Las Cases is just a great wine. Still going strong on red fruit, it has cedar and pencil shavings freshness, very smooth and appealing on the palate. The other two wines were 1975 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge – it was the vintage when Olivier Bernard took over Domaine de Chevalier and it was the last vintage produced by the previous manager – and 1975 Chateau Cos d’Estournel. Cos d’Estournel showed more intensity and grip, while the Chevalier Rouge was just a pale shadow of once good wine.

Dessert came paired with two sweet wines. I did guess the vintage but not the appellation, nor the producers. Chateau Guiraud 1975 and 1975 Chateau Gilette ‘Creme de Tete’ – I said Barsac but they were both from Sauternes – were both nice, but Guiraud showed a fresher vibrant acidity and cleaner defined sweet caramel, saffron, orange and quince marmalade aromas. It was simply delicious.

This was an absolutely unique experience where everybody paid really close attention to wine for the whole dinner and the stirred discussions were the best case study you can do into the history of Bordeaux.

We were extremely fortunate to experience all these great wines because history shows that most successful vintages in Bordeaux ended in a 5. Rumor is this year’s dinner will be all about 6.

 

Four great wines: Pierre Yves Colin Morey, Bruno Giacosa, Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc and Duhart Milon

Had a lovely dinner on Monday evening at a friend’s house and four people managed to go quickly through 4 bottles of wines in just a couple of hours. It was not intended as a speed contest but when the wine is that good it just dries quickly from the glass.

2012 Pierre Yves Colin-Morey Santenay 1er Cru “La Comme” was a stunning surprise for all of us. It’s the first time I’m buying and tasting this producer and for sure it won’t be the last time. In fact it just opened my appetite for discovering more of his wines. This Chardonnay from a less famous Burgundy appellation needs to spend some time in the decanter in order to reveal its exotic and exuberant aromatic profile. Rich and decadent, it exudes very intense aromas of ripe tropical fruits, yellow melon and mango, with complex shades of toast and vanilla. Again rich and highly textured in the mouth, it shows a perfect balance between sweet tropical fruit, stone minerality and vibrant acidity. Long finish, fresh with sweet fruit lingering in the aftertaste. I see lots of similarities with a great 1er Cru Puligny Montrachet. (95/100)

Second white was 2013 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc that shows good richness of citrus and tropical fruit, with vanilla and honeysuckle nose. It is more supple, with higher acidity typical for a Sauvignon Blanc, but overall a well balanced, rich and complete wine. (94/100)

2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco spent about 1 h 30 min in the decanter before being poured. In the Burgundy Zalto glass this wine opens up very nice and quickly. It shows a rich aromatic profile where tar, fresh raspberries and rose petals take the center stage, and as it breathes more profound aromas of savory truffles jump from the glass. Supple and very smooth for such a young Barbaresco, it is full and supple on the palate, with silky smooth tannins, sweet and pure red cherry and raspberry fruit, spices and savory cured meat. Long finish, very elegant and feminine wine. (94-95/100)

2010 Chateau Duhart Milon spent only 20 minutes in the decanter before being poured in the glass, and it is surprisingly open already. It shows sweet cassis and pencil shavings, with refreshing cedar and brett. Full bodied, strong but polished tannins, good intensity of the fruit on the palate that balances the tannin structure. Long finish. (94/100)

Vinuri noi din Bordeaux in sortimentatia real,- wine boutique (II)

L’Aura de Cambon provine de pe o parcela mica de doar 0.5 ha cumparata in 2006 de proprietarul Chateau Cambon La Pelouse. Este situata aproape de Chateau Cantenac Brownm intre parcele de vie detinute de Chateau Brane-Cantenac si Chateau Margaux. Densitatea plantelor este de 8.000 vite/ha si parti egale de Cabernet Sauvignon si Merlot. Randamentele sunt de 37 hl/ha. Mustul a fost fermentat in tancuri mici de 32 hl din inox. Fermentatia malolactica in baricuri 100% noi de la Chassin (50%) si Darnajou (50%) pe drojdii fine in primele 7 luni, maturat inca 12 luni in aceleasi baricuri. Transferul vinului se produce strict prin forta gravitationala. Se produc doar 2.500 de sticle.

L’Aura de Cambon este un cupaj de 50% Cabernet Sauvignon si 50% Merlot. Cele 2 vinuri prezente in magazin din doi ani de recolta diferiti 2009 si 2010 au o culoarea visinie inchisa, aproape opaca. Note dulci de lemn dulce, cirese negre, fructe rosii de padure si prajitura de fructe caracterizeaza vinurile. Stilurile sunt diferite pentru ca 2009 este mai expansiv in arome si mai deschis in gust, in timp ce 2010 se prezinta mai retinut dar la fel de intens in gust.

Domaine de l’A este un domeniu de 9 ha ce are expunere sudica pe dealurile din comuna Sainte-Colombe, cu sol format din lut si calcar. Densitatea viilor este de 6.000 plante/ha si este alcatuit din 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, avand o varsta medie de 35 de ani. Vitele sunt o parte tratate biodinamic. Randamentele in 2012 au fost de 34 hl/ha inainte si 27hl/ha dupa selectie si triere. Ciorchinii sunt alesi manual, boabele sunt puse in cuve mari din stejar pentru o macerare de 30 de zile. Vinul este tras in butoaie pentru fermentatia malolactica si pastrat pe drojdii fine cu agitare in primele 7 luni. Maturarea se desfasoara timp de 16 luni in baricuri din stejar 40% nou si 60% la un ciclu, cu butoaie de la Taransaud si Ana Selection. 23.000 de sticle produse.

Domaine de l’A 2012 are arome frumoase de cirese negre si mure sunt prezente in nasul intens si complex. Senzatie de carnos pe palatin, cu profunzime buna a gustului si note intense si clare de fruct dulce si copt, este un vin seducator care iti da senzatia de plenitudine. Un vin excelent.

Domeniul Château Sansonnet este compus din 7 ha. Merlot-ul este majoritar si acopera 85% dintre vii, restul fiind de Cabernet Franc. Ciclul de maturare dureaza intre 16 si 18 luni cu o proportie mare de stejar frantuzesc nou. Château Sansonnet 2013 are un nas intens si bogat in arome de mure si fructe negre de padure, lemn dulce, grafit si flori de primavara. Are o corpolenta medie spre plina, cu profunzime buna, cu fruct bine copt si tanin ce animeaza si energizeaza intreaga textura.

Château Fleur Cardinale  este un domeniu de 18.5 ha plantat cu o densitate de 6.000 de vite/ha si cu o varsta medie de 40 de ani. Soiurile de struguri sunt 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc si 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Solurile sunt bogate in lut peste calcar, aflate intre Chateau Valandraud si Rol Valentin. Culesul este manual si se desfasoara intre mijlocul lui Octombrie si mijlocul lui Noiembrie. Strugurii au fost desciorchinati si sortati in doua etape inainte de fi transferati in cuve pentru fermentatie. Fermentatia malolactica se desfasoara in butoaie din stejar 100% nou de la patru producatori: Berthomieu, Saury, Quintessence, si Marsannay. Procesul de maturare se desfasoara intre 13 si 15 luni. Château Fleur Cardinale 2013 este rotund, opulent si elegant cu note dulci de afine si mure de padure, note de cirese, frunza de tutun, lemn dulce si senzatii usoare de stejar in plan secund. Corpolenta este medie spre plina, foarte atractiv si poate fi consumat sau pastrat cel putin 8-10 ani.

Vinuri noi din Bordeaux in sortimentatia real,- wine boutique (I)

Recent au fost listate in cadrul real,- wine boutique din cele 4 magazine real,- cateva vinuri noi foarte interesante din Bordeaux pe care le-am si putut incerca in cadrul unei degustari tematice si pe care va invit sa le descoperiti. Sunt vinuri produse in cantitati relativ mici in genul vinurilor de garaje: randamente scazute de struguri la ha, utilizarea celor mai buni producatori de butoaie din stejar frantuzesc, maturare indelungata in butoaie. Sunt vinuri care pot fi consumate azi dupa o decantare de minim 1-2 h sau pot fi pastrate in functie de vin intre 3 si 15 ani.

Château Bolaire este un vin atipic pentru Bordeaux datorita procentului extrem de ridicat de Petit Verdot din cupajul final: 54%, alaturi de Cabernet Sauvignon si Merlot, fiind maturat 12 luni in stejar 30% nou si 70% la un ciclu de folosire de la urmatorii producatori de butoaie: François Frères (55%), Taransaud (25%) si Cadus (20%). Este usor de apreciat si seducator cu arome de afine si visine, intr-un stil curat si proaspat. Corpolenta medie spre plina cu tanin soft si neintruziv, este un vin delicios, in care condimentele sunt la putere, tipic Petit Verdot-ului. Exista ambii ani de recolta: 2012 si 2011. 2011 pare sa beneficieze de un an in plus la sticla fiind mai expresiv azi.

Acesta este al 10-lea an produs de catre acest domeniu care a devenit o stea in modesta sa apelatiune. Are acelasi proprietar ca si Chateau Belle-Vue, regretatul Vincent Mulliez. De pe cele 7.7 ha, 7.3 sunt plantate cu o densitate a viilor de 5-6000 pe ha in solurile uscate din Macau. In 2012, aveau 47 de ani vechime in medie, dar majoritatea Petit Verdot-ului are cel putin 90 de ani vechime. Cupajul include o proportie uimitor de mare de Petit Verdot (54%), 36% Cabernet Sauvignon si 10% Merlot. Culesul se face 60% manual si 40% automatizat, si a avut loc intre 5 si 17 Octombrie. Randamentele la ha in 2012 au fost de 36 hl/ha. Mustul este fermentat in cuve de inox cu o macerare pe pielite de 50 de zile la nu mai mult de 25 gr Celsius. Vinul a petrecut 3 luni pe drojdii dupa fermentatia malolactica si a fost maturat 12 luni in butoaie noi (30%) si la un ciclu (70%).

Château de Cap de Faugères 2011 este un cupaj de 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon fiind maturat 12 luni in butoaie de la 5 producatori traditionali din Franta: 40% Taransaud, 15% Vicard, 15% Saury, 15% Berthomieu si 15% Nadalié. Vinul are arome bogate si intense de afine si cirese negre, cu izuri de stejar si grafit. Corpolenta medie spre plina, surprinde prin stilul expansiv care creste pe cerul gurii pe masura ce este aerat. Este un vin care este usor de indragit de la prima gura. Acest domeniu de 30 de ha a fost cumparat de antreprenorul elvetian, Silvio Denz, in acelasi timp cu Faugeres si Peby-Faugeres in vecinatatea Saint-Etienne-de-Lisse (exact la granita care separa Saint-Emilion de Castillon). Randamentul in 2011 a fost de 45 hl/ha inainte de triere si 40 hl/ha dupa triere.

Clos des Lunes “Lune d’Argent” este cel mai nou proiect al lui Olivier Bernard, proprietarul de la Domaine de Chevalier din Pessac-Leognan. In August 2011, Olivier a cumparat aceasta vie de 27 de ha plantata cu o densitate de 6500 vite/ha situata in apelatiunea Sauternes langa orasul Sauternes. A crescut de atunci la 45 de ha. Varsta medie a viilor este de 30 de ani. Acestea include 70% Semillon si 30% Sauvignon Blanc. Vitele de vie sunt inconjurate de cele ale Chateau d’Arche, Guiraud (unde Olivier este partener de asemenea) si celebrul Yquem. In 2013, culesul s-a realizat 100% manual in diferite etape, pe parcele individuale in functie de maturitatea strugurilor. Culesul a inceput pe 13 Septembrie si a fost finalizat pe 5 Octombrie. Boabele de struguri au fost separate manual de ciorchine. Randamentele au fost de 24 hl/ha. Mustul a fost fermentat si maturat intr-o combinatie de tancuri de 50 hl (75%) si 25% butoaie mici din stejar frantuzesc cu batonage regulat. Se folosesc 30% butoaie noi, 30% vechi la un ciclu si restul la 2 cicluri. Cupajul este in aceeasi proportie ca si vitele plantate: 70% Semillon si restul Sauvignon Blanc. Vinul din 2013 pe care l-am degustat are o paleta aromatica mult mai complexa si o aciditate mai vie decat excelentul 2012.

Dominique si Florence Decoster, proprietari ai Chateau Fleur Cardinale, au cumparat aceasta proprietate de 7.5 ha aflata in imediata vecinatate a Fleur Cardinale in Aprilie 2011. Soiurile de struguri plantate sunt identice cu cele de la Fleur Cardinale: 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc si 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Totusi, varsta medie este ceva mai mare de 40 de ani. Din momentul achizitiei, familia Decoster a inceput un proces de modificari majore in modul de abordare al viilor: au crescut taierea in verde si eliminarea frunzelor, totul pentru a obtine un fruct mai de calitate. Randamentele sunt de 28 hl/ha. Mustul este fermentat in vase mici, de 50 si 70 hl de inox, cu macerare pe pielite timp de 30-35 de zile in functie de soi. Fermentatia malolactica si maturarea se face in butoaie noi din stejar frantuzesc de la Quintessence, Berthomieu, Miquel, Marsannay, Nadalié, Bossuet, si Saury si dureaza 18 luni. Cupajul este similar ca cel de la Chateau Fleur Cardinale: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc si 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Château Croix Cardinale 2011 este suplu si matasos in textura, cu corpolenta plina si somptuos in arome, impresioneaza prin intensitatea notelor de afine si cirese negre. Un vin bogat si intens aromat care poate fi consumat in urmatorii 10-12 ani.

Chateau de Gironville a avut initial 7.68 hectare dar s-a micsorat la 5.23 ha. Apartine familiei Vincent Mulliez care l-a achizitionat impreuna cu Bolaire si Belle-Vue la inceputul lui 2004. Densitatea plantelor este de 6.666 vite pe ha cu o varsta medie de 26 de ani. Soiurile plantate sunt 45% Merlot, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, si 10% Petit Verdot. Aceste vite sunt plantate in soluri in care pietrisul patrunde in profunzime in partea de sud a apelatiunii Haut Medoc. Randamentele sunt in jur de 53hl/ha. Este maturat in baricuri de la (42%) François Frères, (41%) Cadus, si  (17%) Taransaud. Chateau de Gironville 2011 are note florale extrem de atractive alaturi de cele de afine, intr-un nas in care abunda aromele fructate si-ti amintesc de cele mai bune vinuri din Bordeaux. Impresioneaza prin textura sa densa si intens aromata.

Château Jean Faux este un domeniu de 6.5 ha cu expunere sudica a vitelor de vie se afla peste raul Dordogne in zona Castillon-La Bataille. Densitatea viilor este de 7.400 vite/ha, plantate cu 80% Merlot si 20% Cabernet Franc, cu o varsta medie de 25 de ani. Primul an de recolta produs de actualul proprietar, Pascal Collotte (a lucrat ca International Sales Manager pentru producatorul de butoaie Saury) a fost in 2003. Randamentele au fost in 2008 in jur de 28 hl/ha si au scazut selectie si triere la 23 hl/ha. Fermentatia malolactica si maturarea pe drojdii fine in primele 6 luni in butoaie din stejar 45% nou si 45% la 1 ciclu, toate de la Saury. Urmat de inca 12 luni de maturare in aceleasi butoaie si inca 6 luni in tanc inainte de imbuteliere. Château Jean Faux 2011 are note dulci de lemn dulce, cirese negre, fructe rosii de padure si prajitura de fructe. Este un vin bine realizat, cu corpolenta medie, concentratie potrivita si textura matasoasa care poate fi baut cu placere acum si in urmatorii 3-4 ani.

Bordeaux vs Dealu Mare comparative tasting, TUE Nov 17, 2015

Bordeaux vs Dealu Mare Comparative Wine Tasting

We love the Romanian cliche that the wines made along 45th parallel are more or less similar, therefore Dealu Mare is at the same quality level with Bordeaux. So, I would say, is, once again, time to test this!We selected few of the most representative wines from the both region, considering also the price range, and this is the list we came up with: Davino Rezerva Blanc 2013 (Dealu Mare) Chateau Lespault-Martillac Blanc 2013 (Pessac-Leognan) Vinarte Prince Matei 2009 (Dealu Mare) Chateau d’Aiguilhe 2008 (Castillon) Davino Flamboyant 2009 (Dealu Mare) L’Aura de Cambon 2009 (Margaux) SERVE Cuvee Charlotte 2011 (Dealu Mare) Chateau Labegorce 2011 (Margaux) SERVE Cuvee Alexandru 2007 (Dealu Mare) Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2007 (Pessac-Leognan) The tasting will be done blind and in pairs!  We will meet at Restaurant Dada at 19:00 The cost is only 225 lei pp (wine, small tapas and water). The food can be ordered a la carte from the restaurant menu. Confirmation is required, as well as advance payment. Please confirm your participation by email to cosmin.grozea@gmail.com or by phone at +40744 240 108 November 2015 17 REGISTER NOW

Five 100’s

It is not everyday that I get to taste a 100 points Robert Parker wine, let alone 5 different wines as it happened last night. Organized by a fellow blogger from Pitesti, Dan Micuda, at the Tasting Room by Ethic Wine restaurant on str Putul lui Zamfir, the event gathered quite an audience considering the 180 Eur fee.

Wines were opened 24 h in advance, and hopefully (pun intended) guys from Tasting Room did keep and serve the appropriate liquid from each bottle, the tasting naturally raised many expectations. I saw many people from the wine trade, owners and winemakers from Romanian wineries, several wine importers, posh restaurant owners and passionate drinkers. Everybody came to see the Holy Grail. It seemed more like a professional audience that wanted to see and learn from this experience, more than just a crowd that came to enjoy a hedonistic wine dinner.

None of the wines was in my humble opinion a 100 pointer however, there were some that came very close. Among many other things I lack – here it is: I am not perfect, I do not have the background and the experience that people like Robert Parker and other professional wine critics have: the history of tasting all these wines from Bordeaux for  over 30 years and knowing what to expect. Probably the most important knowledge that matters when you try to forecast how these wines will develop over time from the first sip during the en-primeurs to 10, 20 and 30+ years aging in bottle.

So it was a fun night with epic wines that seemed to have a strange effect on people. After the 5 wines were served and drank and some of the participants left, there was a frenzy of new bottles being popped up by some of the remaining attendees. I am not sure if that was just an innocent act of generosity or a challenge thrown to show that other lesser wines that were served blind are a match for the five Grands. Eventually, everything turned into a wine bath.

So here are the wines:

photo credit to Cristian Radu

2009 Chateau Leoville Poyferre is the first 100 points wine made by this producer. I know that they sold the entire production within 4-5 h during the en-primeur campaing and I know this because I paid them a visit in 2011 and they were very happy about that. Show me someone who’s not happy to have revenues of close to 30 Million Euro within a day.

There is a dark red garnet color. A discreet nose that does not reveal too much at the moment. The mouth is a different story: full bodied, plenty of glycerol, viscous, with ripe black fruits, cocoa flakes and spices, it feels to me like a great Californian Cabernet that retains Bordeaux mineral freshness. Long finish. It seemed the lesser wine of the 5 tonight. (93/100)

2010 Chateau Montrose is a different story. I liked this wine from the first smell, sip and I actually liked it a lot. And I was not the only one. Very dark opaque red garnet. Nose is expressive and intense, it shows clear St-Estephe character, with a mineral dominated profile, creme de cassis, graphite, dry paprika and spring flowers. After 30 min in the glass it gets completely different aromatics of bacon, tobacco leaf and violets. Full bodied but supple and precise like a ballerina, gravelly tannin, layered, sweet black fruit, dark cherries and refreshing minerality. Deep, profound and intense, with a long lingering finish. (97/100)

2010 Chateau Pontet Canet has a dark, opaque red garnet color. It reveals a moderate expressive and intense nose where you could find creme de cassis, crushed rocks, cocoa flakes and leafy aromas, constantly evolving in the glass for as long as it lasted. A very smooth mouth-feel in spite of its incredible tannin structure, very dense, glycerol is at high rates here, very fresh with a mineral and cassis scented palate and layered. It has more harmony that the 2009 Leoville Poyferre. Long and lingering finish. (96/100)

photo credit Cristian Radu

2010 Chateau Pape Clement is more expressive on the nose. A dark, opaque red garnet color. Highly mineral nose, very typical to a Pessac-Leognan, pencil shavings, cassis, smoke and hot stones are evident on the first nose, but in time it leaves room to charcoal, dried green bell pepper and violets. It explodes in the mouth with flavors of sweet cranberries, blackberries, spring flowers and dark chocolate, with assertive but very well mastered tannin, full bodied with refreshing acidity and a very long lingering finish. It has a more leafy character in its taste. (97/100)

The only Merlot dominated wine tonight: 88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Caberner Franc. It is the wine I felt it was the best to drink today from the rest we had. That doesn’t make it the best wine of the night.

2009 Clos Fourtet has an opaque dark red garnet color. Very expressive nose of sour cherry, smoke, plums and fresh minerals spring from the glass. Thick and full bodied, ample mouth-feel with medium acidity that makes it very approachable today. Fine grained tannin and amply textured, layered, with sweet black fruits, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate. Long lingering finish. Worked really well with the rib eye steak we had. It reminded me of the 2000 Chateau Cheval Blanc I had in 2011. (95/100)

I could get used to do this everyday.

French themed dinner June 2015

There are dinners and there are exceptional dinners. Sometimes life can play tricks on you. It happened to me this week when it seemed I was the victim of my own luck. I had two wine dinners that I attended in two consecutive days and that seemed to be a bit too much. First one was a Romanian wines themed dinner that ended too late in the night and as a result the next morning was very slow, during the day it was more of a gradual recovery and by the time dinner was getting ready to start it finally felt more normal, but not fully recovered.

This was a very intimate dinner for 4 people where I acted as an organizer and tasting and enjoying the wines was one of the perks of the job. Absolutely outstanding experience, where some of the biggest and most interesting wines from France were served.

Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee NV has a golden color with rich and tiny bubbles. A very expressive nose with flint, citrus peel, saline sea shell, it opens up with sweet caramel and lactic notes. Very tight on the palate, focused, with citrus and white peach fruit, it is a Champagne that needs at least 45 minutes to breath to open. Long finish with rich citrus fruit freshness. (94/100)

There was a great match with the oysters as both shared the saline and sea shell aromas.

2011 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc is one of the grandest dry whites from Bordeaux I tasted. Before this, Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2009 was my favorite, but that is history now. Medium yellow color. This has an intense and impressive nose, but simply put is Wow. There is a rich yellow melon aroma that gradually leaves room to tropical fruits: tangerine, mango, papaya, very exotic and exuberant nose all sustained by very smart oak, some flint and smoke but always the exuberant sweet fresh tropical fruit holds the center stage. Lots of vibrant yellow fruit, ‎tropical fruits, very fresh palate with almonds, still tight but very promising. Long, long finish. What strikes the most in this wine is that in spite of its rich extract and abundance of fruit, the wine has an almost weightless texture that I find it as a common denominator in some of the grandest wines. I could drink this everyday. (96/100)

It was a great match with Sea Bass and Tuna Tartar but again this wine is good with anything.

1993 Chateau d’Yquem comes from a difficult vintage for all of Bordeaux wines. However tasting this wine you can understand why this is a Premier Grand Cru Classe. It has a light amber color. Very expressive and sweet nose of orange marmalade, saffron, peach, ginger and honey comb. This is certainly not the richest or the most opulent Yquem, but it is a very elegant wine that delivers a lot of pleasure today. There is still some richness on the palate, with vibrant orange marmalade, ginger spice and honey, unctuous and lovely. Long finish. (93-94/100)

2005 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru ‘Les Suchots’ Bouchard P&F needs about 4 h to breath in order to start to open up. It has a medium ruby red color. The nose is all about fresh pine needles, sweet red berry fruit, coffee bean and sous bois, a nose of profound subtleties. Medium to full body, there is texture and layers of vibrant sweet fresh red fruits, aromatic tea leaves, sappy tannins. It still feels tight and points to a good development in the next few years. Medium to long finish, red currant and black tea flavors. (93/100)

2003 Chateau Leoville Poyferre is a wine I tasted several times in the last 4 years and it was always a great wine. The color is red garnet almost opaque. The aromatic profile feels to be the best of two worlds: the ripe and sunny fruit you can find in the finest Super Tuscan’s and the freshness and complexity from the best red Bordeaux. Complex and intense aromas of cassis, blackberry, red paprika, coffee bean, mineral pencil shavings, all make a very expressive nose today. Rich and opulent on the palate, it has ripe and velvety sweet tannins that give balance and freshness to all this dense texture and abundance of flavors. Long finish, sweet lingering fruit. An impressive wine for the vintage. (97/100)

An absolutely outstanding wine dinner experience.