Degustare Cremant si Champagne

Sarbatorile se apropie cu pasi repezi astfel incat va propun o degustare de spumante si Champagne care s-ar potrivi pentru inceputul mesei de Paste sau pentru un mic dejun/brunch de weekend.

Vinurile oferite spre degustare sunt importate si distribuite de noul meu proiect intitulat Champagne Room (www.champagne-room.ro) si au fost atent selectionate dintr-un numar considerabil de producatori din Franta.

Spumantele oferite spre degustare:

• Jean Louis Denois Chardonnay Extra Brut
• Jean Louis Denois Cuvee Eclipse 2011
• Champagne Dhondt-Grellet Prestige du Moulin Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
• Champagne Michel Genet Millesime 2010 Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru
• Champagne Herve Dubois Brut Rose Grand Cru

Degustarea se va desfasura Marti 4 Aprilie cu incepere de la ora 19:00 in locatia Champagne Room din blvd Magheru nr 27 Sc B etaj 2 (vis-a-vis de KFC-ul de la Piata Romana). Costul de participare este de 110 Ron si include vinurile, apa si ceva snack-uri pentru a tempera atacul vinului.

Vinurile vor fi servite din pahare Lehmann Glass Jamesse Prestige realizate special de catre somelierul sef al celebrului restaurant Le Parc Domaine Les Crayeres din Reims.

Pentru rezervari va rog fie sa-mi dati un mail pe contact@champagne-room.ro fie sa ma contactati direct la telefon la 0723 240 102.

Mai jos cateva cuvinte despre vinurile ce vor fi degustate.

Jean Louis Denois este cel mai apreciat producator de Cremant de Limoux din zona Languedoc-ului, el insusi provine dintr-o familie producatoare de vinuri spumante de Champagne din zona Champagne. Lucreaza majoritar cu strugurii consacrati din Champagne: Chardonnay si Pinot Noir, iar vinurile sale pot rivaliza usor cu cele din Champagne. Chardonnay-ul Extra Brut este pastrat 4 ani pe drojdii inainte de degojare, iar Cuvee Eclipse 2011 care este varful de gama al lui Denois este un vin produs din struguri de Chardonnay si Pinot Noir din vite de vie cultivate in regim bio, doar inima mustului, pastrat de asemenea indelung pe drojdii.

Champagne Dhondt-Grellet este un producator extrem de dinamic, specializat pe Champagne Blanc de Blancs avand viile situate in zone cu parcele clasificate Grand si Premier Cru in Côte des Blancs, mai exact in satele Cramant Chouilly, Cuis si de asemenea in Sezanne. Cateva parcele de vie de Pinot Noir se afla in Avenay-Val-d’Or in Grande Valle de la Marne. Vechimea avansata a vitelor de vie contribuie la calitatea vinurilor realizate.

Familia Genet (Champagne Michel Genet) este prezenta in satul Chouilly de sute de ani iar producția de Champagne în acest sat Grand Cru este activitatea principala a familiei de peste 100 de ani. Satul Chouilly, situat in Cote de Blancs , in sudul regiunii Champagne, este cunoscut in mod special pentru Chardonnay-ul de cea mai înaltă calitate și este clasat printre cele 17 terroir-uri Grand Cru ale regiunii Champagne.

Champagne Herve Dubois cproduce vin de pe cele 7.5 ha detinute dintre care 4.5 ha de Chardonnay Grand Cru in Côte des Blancs si 0.5 ha de Chardonnay Premier Cru in Montagne de Reims din care rezulta vinuri de o eleganta aparte cu multa prospetime si delicatete; 1.5 ha de Pinot Meunier care ofera rotunjime si arome intens fructate vinului si 1 ha de Pinot Noir care aduce putere si rafinament de pe vite de vie aflate in Vallée de la Marne. Cuvee-ul Rose imbina maiestuos finetea Chardonnay-ului cu puterea si fructuozitatea vinului rosu produs din Pinot Noir provenit din satul Verzenay din regiunea Montagne de Reims. Asamblaj: 90 % Chardonnay si 10% Pinot Noir.

 

Anunt Degustare – Bordeaux & Chateauneuf Soiree

Incepem noul sezon al degustarilor cu o clasica comparatie a catorva superlative din doua zone celebre ale lumii vinului frantuzesc: Bordeaux si Chateauneuf du Pape. Am ales etichete foarte bune, foarte bine sau maxim cotate de catre profesionisti si, pentru o experienta completa, din vintage-uri variate.

2006 Weingut Wittmann Westhofen ‘S’ Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germania (88 pct)
1996 Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc, Franta (91 pct)
1995 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Franta (95 pct RP)
2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Franta (100 pct WE)
2006 Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan, Franta (95 pct RP)
2010 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee, Rhone, Franta
(98 pct RP)
2006 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, Franta (93 pct WE)
1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, Franta (94 pct WF)

Ne intalnim joi, 23 februarie, de la 19:30, la Seva Cuisine (Lakeview Building, Barbu Vacarescu 301 – 310).

Sunt 12 locuri disponibile si fiecare costa 390 de lei (vinurile, o gustare si apa). Pentru confirmarea rezervarii este necesara plata in avans. Ma puteti contacta pe cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau la telefon 0723 240 102.

4 vintages of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou

It’s been a while since I posted on this blog even though my drinking habits grew and expanded with some serious wines. Just could not find the drive to write. This time however I felt compelled to share my experience drinking this absolutely exceptional vintages from Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou.

This is a producer that sits on top of my short list of Bordeaux producers, a winery that I visited in 2011 and was impressed over the last years by the continuous quality of its wines every single vintage. Even in 2013 that seems a bleak vintage for red Bordeaux, Ducru-Beaucaillou managed to produce a wine that is deemed to be the wine of the vintage.

Met last night with 6 friends at La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge in Herastrau to drink these wines. Initially the plan was to have only the 2005 and 2009 that were bought from a store in Monaco, but I volunteered to bring bottles of 2006 and 2010. The two bottles of 2005 and 2009 were uncorked at noon together with 2006, while the 2010 I uncorked personally around 18:30 and left to breath in a decanter until about 9:00 pm.

Just a few things before the tasting notes:

• quality for Ducru-Beaucaillou is at its highest and it has been like this since 2003 when the new management team came on board.
• the 2009 vintage got a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker and at its launch was the most expensive Ducru ever released.
• 2010 was awarded a 98 points by Parker and 100 points by James Suckling. When it was released Bruno Borie made a brilliant move by releasing the wine 10% cheaper in price compared to 2009, giving more confidence to its buyers that it is a well established and customer concerned producer. I know this because I was in Bordeaux when it was released.
• 2005 is a vintage that will be spectacular even over the next 20-30 years from now.

And now the wines:

The bottle of 2006 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou had a more than usual development and the wine felt 10-15 years older than it should actually be. This is not a general case for the 2006 Ducru as this wine can age. I had unfortunately the bad luck to purchase this particular faulty bottle. The wine shows over mature flavors and there is no point rating it as it is just an isolated case. NR

The 2005 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou is a completely different story and from now on things start to get spectacular. This 11 years old wine combines freshness, complexity of aromas that came with aging and fresh fruit, developing nuances with every second and every sip in the glass. Still a bit shy on the nose compared to 2009 or even 2010, but very complete and balanced in every single way. Tannin is polished and velvety and bites the gums only in the long finish, rich fruit merrily gives flesh to its strong tannin structure that does not interfere at all on the palate. Very long. (96-97/100)

2009 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou comes with fireworks, like a carousel that takes your senses to new highs when you least expect it and believe this is it, what else can it be ? This wine evolves in so many nuances as it sits in the glass and breathes that everybody was keeping their nose in the glass continuously like hunting dogs following the paths of their prey. It has everything: rich and lavish fruit, freshness, purity of aromas, complexity and depth, incredible depth actually. Taste is a symphony that swings again between rich sweet fruit, mineral freshness and rich sweet velvety tannin that pinches your gums from time to time just as a reminder of its greatness. This is a King-Kong wine. (99/100)

2010 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou would have certainly benefited from extensive aeration but it did not last much in the glasses. This was the biggest surprise of the night as it changed completely from the first to the last pour in the glasses. Initially shy and not very convincing on the nose, it did benefit from being served from Zalto Bordeaux Grand Cru glasses. Last 2 glasses were spectacular. There is certainly more minerality and freshness, and least lavish fruit here compared to 2009, but there is more precision, focus and intensity on the palate. This has a more classic Bordeaux side, where pencil shavings and paprika step a bit more forward, however fruit seems to be fresher and very well represented. More supple, cleaner, more precision and more serious on the palate. Gravelly tannin, rich red fruit, cassis, graphite, coffee, there are so many things happening here. Another kaleidoscope and multi layered wine that I somehow feel closer to my heart. Very, very long finish as well. (99/100)

There was another bottle of 2000 Vega-Sicilia Unico opened after this wines but it showed a more developed character than normal. I am sure it was just an isolated bottle, as another Unico 2000 that I had in September was excellent.

For food we had fresh pasta ravioli with funghi porcini and osso bucco with fresh shaved white truffles, risotto with funghi porcini, and New Zealand lamb chops. The pairing between 2005 Ducru and lamb chops was perfect. For me lamb and well aged Bordeaux is a match made in heaven.

The Famous Italy – Anunt degustare

Aveti posibilitatea sa va oferiti, sau sa oferiti, un pic mai devreme, un cadou foarte frumos de Craciun: cele mai faimoase vinuri ale Italiei pentru prima data intr-o degustare comparativa.

Am pastrat pentru ultima noastra degustare a anului patru Super-Toscane cautate, ravnite si apreciate de toti cunoscatorii intr-ale vinului.

Cremant Jean Louis Denois Chardonnay Brut

2015 Gaja Ca’Marcanda Vistamare

2010 Tignanello
2012 Solaia
2013 Sassicaia
2013 Ornellaia

Ne intalnim marti, 15 noiembrie, de la 19:30, la Mahala (Calea Rahovei 147 – 153). Sunt 12 locuri disponibile si fiecare costa 390 de lei (vinurile, o gustare si apa). Pentru rezervari este necesara plata in avans. Ma puteti contacta pentru a face o rezervare pe email: cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau la telefon 0744 240 108.

Rezerve Davino si Bordeaux – Anunt degustare

Probabil ati auzit de Flamboyant, varful de gama al lui Davino, producatorul din Dealu Mare. Dar daca v-as spune ca exista ceva si mai si, tot de la ei?

Relansam seria degustarilor cu doua mini-verticale ale high-end-ului Davino, nemaiintalnite pana acum: Rezerva Rosu si Rezerva Alb. Iar ca sa facem seara si mai atractiva, le combinam cu cateva Bordeaux-uri rasate.

Iata vinurile:

J. L. Denois Cremant Cuvee Classic Brut (nou in piata)

Davino Rezerva Alb 2012
Davino Rezerva Alb 2013

Davino Rezerva Rosu 2009
Davino Rezerva Rosu 2010
Davino Rezerva Rosu 2011

Chateau La Gaffelier 2010 (St-Emilion, RP 95, WE 95)
Chateau Duhart Milon 2010 (Pauillac, RP 96)
Chateau d’Aiguilhe 2010 (Castillon, JS 92-93, WS 92, CT 90)

Sunt 12 locuri disponibile.

Pretul este de 225 de lei de persoana si include vinurile, apa si o mica gustare. Puteti comanda a la carte din meniul restaurantului. Degustarea are loc Miercuri 26 Octombrie incepand cu ora 19:30 la restaurantul Dada din str Matei Voievod 94bis.

Plata participarii in avans este necesara pentru o rezervare ferma. Puteti rezerva prin email catre cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau apeland la 0723 240 102.

Cinele gourmet marca real,- wine boutique

Saptamana trecuta au avut loc 2 evenimente gourmet in cadrul magazinului real,– din Arad in sectiunea de vin real,-wine boutique ce au introdus o serie noua de vinuri perfecte pentru aceste zile calde de vara. Este vorba despre ‘Totul pentru gust‘ si ‘Wine club‘ in cursul carora participantii au aflat povestea clasicelor vinuri spumante de Cremant, a celebrelor rose-uri din Provence, dar si noutati din portofoliul amplu detinut de Bernard Magrez.

Pentru cine nu este familiar cu acest nume, Bernard Magrez este proprietarul a mai multor domenii din Bordeaux: Chateau Pape Clement fiind cel mai cunoscut dintre ele, Chateau La Tour Carnet, Chateau Fombrauge, dar si din alte parti ale Frantei si ale lumii. Produce impreuna cu actorul Gerard Depardieu vinuri in Languedoc-Franta si in Maroc, dar are detineri si in Argentina, Chile, Japonia, California (USA), Uruguay si Spania. Calitatea este ceea ce caracterizeaza vinurile pe care le produce, pasiunea sa pentru excelenta fiind remarcata si prin asocierea cu celebrul Chef si proprietar de restaurante cu stele Michelin: Joel Robuchon si deschiderea restaurantului ‘La Grand Maison de Bernard Magrez’ din Bordeaux.

Cele doua evenimente marca real,-wine boutique s-au desfasurat in zilele de 30 Iunie si 1 Iulie si au fost initiate cu un spumant creat dupa metoda traditionala de producere a sampaniei ce presupune a doua fermentatie in sticla si invechirea pe drojdii cel putin 12 luni inainte de a fi degorjat. Cremant Langlois Brut este produs din struguri de Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc si Chenin Blanc, si provine din regiunea Loarei. De un galben deschis, acest cremant prezinta miros de citrice si pere, completat de un gust proaspat si fructat. Prezinta o aciditate medie si un perlaj fin. Este versatil fiind potrivit si pentru realizarea diferitelor cocktail-uri avand un raport calitate/pret excelent.

Noutatea acestor evenimente este faptul ca preparatele culinare sunt gatite live in fata participantilor de catre chef Liviu Chiorpec, in timp ce asocierile culinare si motivele alegerii lor sunt explicate de catre consultantul Ladislau Kristof si unul dintre reprezentantii furnizorului sau al producatorului de vin.

Chateau Tour des Gendres Cuvee de Conti 2014 este realizat din Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc si Muscadelle, avand o particularitate speciala, mai ales ca acesti struguri sunt culesi foarte copti si partial sunt trecuti prin procesul de „passerillage” (strugurii sunt lasati pe vie sa se stafideasca si apoi sunt vinificati). Stilul vinului este unul bogat si intens, cu arome dulci de fructe galbene si o densitate buna in gust. Asocierea cu Tokana de fructe de mare a scos in evidenta o usoare nota salina a vinului.

Bernard Magrez Aries Estate 2014 este un Malbec tipic din regiunea Mendoza din Argentina ce a fost deosebit de apreciat pentru notele sale fructoase de cirese negre, mure si de ciocolata neagra, cu tanin fin si senzatie de carnos in gust. Stocul a fost lichidat repede, in acest moment vinul fiind disponibil cu precomanda pe site-ul realwineboutique. Asocierea cu coaste de porc la cuptor slow cocked cu piure de cartofi cu susan i-a scos in evidenta complexitatea.

Bernard Magrez Casa Magrez 2013 este un vin special produs in Uruguay din struguri de Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon si Tannat, fiind o reala surpriza pentru participanti. O asociere clasica pentru un vin atat de dens si de intens a fost file de vita cu legume, taninul bogat al Tannat-ului dand savoare preparatului.

Evenimentul ‘Totul pentru gust‘ a fost dedicat vinurilor rose produse in diferite regiuni ale Frantei: Kressmann Bordeaux Grande Reserve Rose 2014 (Bordeaux) fiind asociat cu filet de biban cu sos de Lime, Hecht&Bannier Rose 2014 (Languedoc) cu somon posat pe un pat de salata verde si Maison Fabre Cuvee Villa Garrel 2014 (Provence) cu muschiulet de porc cu legume. Au fost remarcate diferitele culori ale vinurilor in functie de tipul de struguri din care au fost produsi, corpolenta, prospetimea si intensitatea gustului.

 

A week in Burgundy – Day 1

Started the first day in Burgundy with an early visit at Domaine Castagnier in Morey Saint Denis at 09:00 am. I found myself ringing the bell for couple of minutes without an answer and I was joined by a group of 3 Swiss guys that were scheduled for the same 9:00 am visit. Visit started shortly when the host arrived by car and invited all of us for a tour in the winery. It seems that Saint Moritz is a strong market for expensive Burgundy thanks to a large number of Russian tourists that come to ski. No surprise there.

There are 2 separate labels here: one for wines produced from the vineyards owned labelled as Domaine Castagnier and another for the negoce business started only a few years ago labelled as SARL Jerome Castagnier produced from rented vineyards located in some of the most sought after appellations: Chevalier Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureueses, Echezeaux, Chambertin Clos de Beze, Bonnes Mares. We tasted only the 2015 vintage from barrels that shows impressive potential.

2015 is looking to be an excellent vintage for Burgundy, most of the wines just starting to finish the malolactic fermentation in barrels. They show structure, flesh and acidity in the right amounts to promise a long aging potential and complex aromatics.

Tasted about 10 wines during the 2 h visit here but sadly lost my tasting notes for the properties visited on Day 1. From memory the wines tasted: Bourgogne, Morey Saint Denis 1er cru aux Cheseaux, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru,  Gevrey Chambertin 1er cru Les Cazetiers, Mazy Chambertin Grand Cru.

Second producer to visit after lunch was Domaine Chicotot in Nuits Saint Georges. Tasted some 2013’s and 2014’s here with high points for Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru Les Vaucrains and Les Saint Georges 1er Cru. There is a big thing happening now in Burgundy as the vineyard Les Saint Georges is pushed to become the first Grand Cru of Nuits Saint George. It won’t happen over night but it is on everyone’s lips.

Third producer was Bernard Rion in Vosne-Romanee where some of the highlights were the 1er Cru from Nuits Saint Georges and the Grand Cru’s.

Last visit of the day and a highlight for this week in Burgundy was Domaine Meo-Camuzet. There are 2 labels here just like for Castagnier: one labelled as Domaine Meo-Camuzet that includes the wines from the owned vineyards, and one for negoce labelled as Meo-Camuzet Frere&Soeurs with rented holdings in many appellations.

Tasted many 2014’s that show incredible consistency, purity and clarity, with lavish texture and silky smooth tannin, very well balanced by generous and complex fruit flavors. Starting from Hautes Cotes de Nuits, Saint Romain and going to Fixin Clos de Chapitre, Marsannay, Nuits Saint Georges Les Perrieres, Nuits Saint Georges Murges, Vosne Romanee Les Chaumes, Clos Vougeot and Echezeaux. These are all amazing wines that I would love to hold in my cellar.

Finished the day with dinner at La Maison du Colombier in Beaune where I ordered a bottle of 2012 Meo Camuzet Hautes Cotes de Nuits just to keep lingering the memory of the wines tasted during the last visit.

 

A week in Burgundy – Foreword

I took a short vacation and traveled to Beaune in Burgundy with the family from 18th to 22nd April. We had a lovely time together and I also had the chance to visit some top tier producers that I will expand more on the next following posts. There are a few words to say if you, dear reader and wine lover, consider visiting this city and wine region as a family with small children.

My daughter is almost 3 so you would think she is fairly easy to integrate into a regular meal plan from any restaurant but the reality is completely different. Restaurants in Beaune are not child friendly and they usually have different service time then, at least, my daughter’s eating habits. For good restaurants the service time is 12:00 – 14:30 and 19:15 – 23:00. It’s like everybody is on vacation there, and I am not referring to tourists. The menu is usually strict and based on the day’s picks from the market according to what they say, which is fine. If it happens – as it almost always did for us – that their dishes and the kid’s taste fell in totally opposite directions, you might find yourself (I did) into a bit of a situation. So if your kid does not eat almost everything you should consider again a trip together in Beaune.

There are some things to do while traveling with kids in Beaune: there is a beautiful park (Parc de la Bouzaise) that’s great to explore, the Center has many small streets to discover and plenty of houses with stairs. Stairs seems to be the new hit for us, each stair needs to be climbed over and over again. So what appears to be a short street, might take sometimes 30-40 minutes of walking, climbing and jumping from every stair.

We stayed at Najeti Hotel De La Poste which sits on a great location, walking distance from the center where most of the restaurants are, fairly big rooms, very cozy and quiet. It is a very nice location to stay in Beaune.

Food is most of the times very good as long as you make reservations in advance and book your table. It’s funny how restaurants that are empty at 12:00 get completely full within 15 minutes. From the restaurants we dinned I would recommend:

• Ma Cuisine in Beaune. Tasty food and menu changes everyday. A good selection of wines by the glass and an extensive wine list. I had an impressive 2009 Domaine de Comtes Lafon Meursault by the glass (15 Eur) that surprised me with its perfect balance between stony and oyster shell minerality, honey and abundant sweet fruit, staying fresh, detailed and vibrant (94/100).

• La Maison du Colombier. This restaurant opens at 19:00 everyday and is closed on WED and SUN. The owner is a former chef from a 2 Michelin star restaurant and runs this place together with his wife. There is an impressive wine list here and there are plenty of gems at affordable prices to drink. Menu was the same for 2 days in a row and quite limited, but tasty. There is a good selection of tapas. Had a great wine there that I discovered the same day visiting the producer: Meo Camuzet Bourgogne Hautes-Cotes de Nuits Blanc 2012. This was such a lovely Chardonnay that shows plenty of tropical and stone fruits, with stony minerality, a ripe and fat palate with beautiful vibrant acidity and a finish that lingers (92/100). 55 Eur per bottle on the restaurant list and great discovery for me.

• if you have a car – which you should have if you want to visit wineries, I would recommend to dine at Au Clos Napoleon in Fixin. Book a table in advance on the terrace because the place gets crowded quickly. When the weather is sunny outside, the view over the vines makes it for a very enjoyable lunch. Food is also good.

terrace from Au Clos Napoleon

• Another good location for food is in Morey Saint Denis, the restaurant from Castel de Tres Girard. There is a long and interesting wine list, filled with plenty of great wines and grower’s Champagne at good prices. I had a 2011 Clos des Lambrays from Magnum and a 2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Domaine des Lambrays that were stunning.

It was also my daughter’s first visit to a winery and I believe she starts on a good ground.

I will have a few separate posts the following days about the wineries I visited and the wines I tasted – mostly 2014’s, with some unexpected surprises,  as my schedule was pretty full with about 3-4 wineries a day. It was nevertheless a great time visiting this beautiful and calm region with the family.

Other highlights of this trip were meeting Mr Steven Spurrier 2 times over 2 days at the same wineries I was visiting – what were the odds, and practicing my modest French during these visits as English is not such an international language in many cases here as one might believe.

If you want to discover and order some wines from Burgundy I would suggest visiting real-wineboutique page.

 

Dinner with Dom P Rose, Pavie, Troplong Mondot and Krug

Had dinner last night with a small crew of friends and between the 4 of us we shared some excellent wines. Started the night with Champagne Krug Grande Cuvee NV (I did not take a note of the ID sadly as Olivier Krug pointed to me early in the morning on Instagram) that is fresh and intense, showcasing great craftsmanship. It sports smoky citrus fruit, Granny Smith apple and fine pastry on the nose, and cleanse the mouth with razor sharp acidity and great freshness. Weightless on the palate in spite of its good intensity, it fades quickly from the glass. (94/100)

First red wine, 2001 Chateau Pavie, was decanted and aerated for about 2 h before being poured and it just got better with time in the glass. Very dark red garnet color. Initially a bit heady but quickly recovered and showed a complex and maturing but youthful nose filled with clean aromas of ink, plums, mint and cedar, later shifting to truffles. Beautiful nose. On the palate it is full and supple, gravely tannin still assertive on the finish, with good richness of texture, layers of blue fruit and mineral freshness. Long finish that lingers. This is superb today. (94-95/100)

A big surprise for me was Contador 2011, a Spanish red wine from Rioja that sells at super premium prices. It might have been too young today but I do not see the hype for it. The color is purple opaque. Nose is intense but today is too much oak influence. Rich aromas of dolce de lecce and Christmas cake cover any other aromas. It is smooth on the palate, with plenty of rich black fruit, and there is more focus here. Fairly long finish with dark chocolate and blueberry fruit. (91-92/100)

Popped and decanted on site with very little time to breath was the spectacular 2010 Chateau Troplong Mondot, a 99 points wine according to Robert Parker. The wine deserves it. This has a deep dark red garnet color. Nose is complex, youthful and so rich and intense. The wine states 16% alcohol on the back label but this is so well hidden and balanced under its rich layers of black fruit, fresh minerality and a skyscraper structure of smooth tannin, and every sip is like a revelation. Rich, heady, lavish sweet fruit, chocolate and ink on the palate, this is really good. Long finish. This might very well become a 100 points wine on the 10 years tasting from the vintage. (98/100)

There was a 2006 Chateau d’Yquem served from a half bottle but somehow it did not manage to find my glass. So last wine was Champagne Dom Perignon Rose 2003, a wine that I am personally worried how often I tasted this year. The inconvenient side is that every time it usually ends a long line of great wines and I cannot get the full grip of it. However, its vinosity is unquestionable, this is a wine especially designed for fine gastronomy. And considering its high price, how could that be different ? (96/100)

Ended the night sooner than other times but the two red Bordeaux wines were stunning and I am still thinking about them the second day.

It’s all about Bordeaux – wine tasting announcement

JOIN US AT
Mahala Restaurant, Calea Rahovei, Bucharest

Whites, reds, Margaux, St-Julien, Moulis en Medoc, St-Emilion, 100 points, 99 points, mature Bordeaux, young Bordeaux, vertical wine tasting, this event has it all.

We welcome you to join us and discover why is Bordeaux the most sought after wine.

2013 Clos des Lune ‘Lune d’Argent’, 91 pcts.

2010 Chateau Labegorce, Margaux, 94 pcts.
2009 Chateau La Tour Figeac, St-Emilion, 93 pcts.

2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, St-Julien, 100 pcts.
2010 Troplong Mondot, 1er Grand Cru Classe St-Emilion, 99 pcts.

1996 Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc, 90 pcts.
2002 Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc, 90 pcts.
2003 Chateau Chasse Spleen, Moulis en Medoc, 91 pcts.

REGISTER NOW:
The price is 320 lei pp and includes the wines, water and the starter. Main course can be order “a la carte” from the restaurant menu.

Please send an email to cosmin.grozea@gmail.com or call +40744 240 108 and make your reservation. Advanced payment is mandatory.

Dinner with Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon, Unico, Evangile and more

Met my usual group of wine aficionados again last night for dinner and had some amazing wines. Started with this sublime vintage rose Champagne that I remember having last time about 1-2 years ago, but from a different vintage, 2000 if I remember correctly. We had all Champagne’s from the Zalto white wine glass that I find it complements a lot the way Champagne tastes like. Probably the only issue here would be that it does not stimulate enough the bubble persistence as the regular sparkling glass does. As aromas are concerned, I believe it focuses very well the full aromatic profile of the Champagne.

2002 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon Rose has a light coppery color with small and rich bubbles. This is a Champagne to keep in the glass and smell it over and over as it changes its aromas constantly. It starts fresh and classy with small red berries, dough and a salty seashell aroma, and, with air, it develops pomegranate and pink grapefruit. Gracious but powerful in the mouth, it has a strong backbone of acidity and discreet tannin, with layers of flavors that build like a skyscraper on the palate, creating a sense of immersion and depth. Long finish that goes on for good seconds. This is a very elegant and classy rose that I absolutely love. (96/100)

First red of the night was a high roller that got awarded a perfect 100 points by the Wine Spectator. The 2005 Chateau L’Evangile was decanted for about 2 hours before being consumed. The color is dark red garnet. Nose is already expressive and very complex, with a ripe but fresh profile. Lavish aromas of plums, sour cherry, dark chocolate and ink build a complex aromatic profile that just continues to develop new aromas in the glass. Silky smooth on the palate already in spite of its high velvety tannin structure, it is profound and rich, with lush flavors of chocolate and black cherry, gravel minerality and paprika. Long finish, combines fruit and bitter sweet chocolate in the lingering aftertaste. It disappeared from the glasses fairly quickly. (97/100)

A friend said that today it is at its peak and there is not more to develop from now on. I believe it will be on this plateau for many years to come and that it will develop into an even more interesting wine. Future will tell.

2010 seems to be THE vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. I believe most of the wines coming from reliable producers will develop and surprise wine drinkers in time. It should be a strong addition for the cellar.

Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino 2010 from Gaja is a youthful and powerful wine today. It sports a deep red garnet color. Even after 3 h in a decanter the wine continues to be shy in revealing its full aromatic profile. There are of course fruity aromas of black cherry, sour cherry and blackberry, well complemented by spices and blue flowers, but you can feel that not everything is disclosed yet. On the palate it is powerful, with assertive velvety tannin well dressed into rich layers of red and black fruit and spices, with fresh aromatic herbs that give depth. Long finish, tannin is assertive again and indicates patience is required. (94/100)

Also decanted for about 3-4 h, the 2007 Vega-Sicilia Unico is a wine to keep on smelling and discovering in the glass. It has a deep red garnet color, and since my last encounter this bottle shows a slightly different aromatic profile. Yes the oak is still there but not that prominent, and there’s a new layer of dill and orange peel that did not feel it before. Rich and powerful on the palate. (94/100)

Two more Champagne’s were served. A 2003 Dom Perignon Rose that has a deep red onion peel color with abundant mousse, a rich and vinous mouth-feel. It feels denser and has a completely different personality compared to the previous Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon. If that was ethereal, the Dom Perignon Rose is robust and swings in full throttle. (95-96/100)

Last wine of the night and a first time for me was the 2004 Champagne Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame. It has a light yellow lemon color, with tiny and rich bubbles. Fresh but complex on the nose, it has lots of citrus fruit, brioche and nuts, with a rich palate of pear and Granny smith apples, mouth watering acidity and appealing elegance. Long and refreshing citrus fruit finish. (94/100)

That was the end of a fun and engaging dinner with friends.

Lunch with Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2013

Went for lunch at the lovely Mahala restaurant on Calea Rahovei, a place I recently discovered and immediately fell in love with its food. The place is owned and run by the former chef from Casa di David and focuses on Romanian food. Excellent cooked. It was a family lunch and we celebrated the birthday of a dear person.

Had this great Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2013 that was decanted for about 30 minutes before being poured in the glass. The wine has a medium yellow gold color. Nose is intense and layered, filled with rich aromas of tropical fruits: mango, papaya and passion fruit, lemons and luxurious oak. Same story on the palate, abundant layers of yellow fruit mixed with smart oak and butterscotch, with lovely vibrant acidity and a perfect Pessac-Leognan sense of place. Long fruity and floral finish that lingers. (93-94/100)

Paired this wine with pumpkin flowers filled with Romanian “urda” cheese as appetizer and sea bass as a main course.

Dinner with Bouchard, Pegau, Billecart-Salmon, Cristal and more

A friend from abroad was in town this week so we ended up having dinner at a favorite for me now: La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge. As we both fancy wine, there was a good line-up prepared and as usual there were initially planned 3 bottles, but eventually we ended up having more between our small group of 4.

Started the night with this 2003 Bouchard Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus that was popped and poured and barely had time to breath over the 1 h it lasted. This is a most unusual Pinot Noir in the sense that it has the mark of the hot 2003 vintage with ripe fruit and medium to low acidity. The color is deep ruby red. Nose is already expressive and developed well into a complex mix of sweet blue and red fruit, Asian spices and some discreet shades of undergrowth, keeping fresh. It has a denser than you might expect mouth feel, with a fleshy texture where velvety and smooth tannin mixes well with lavish layers of ripe red fruit and tea leaves, preserving balance and freshness. Long finish, aromatic tea leaves and red fruit jam. Really enjoyed it. (94/100)

A bottle of 2010 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape was opened and left to breath since lunch time so it had about 8 h to aerate. Nose was interesting as usual but the mouth feel was bad. There was just too much VA in it to be able to enjoy it. Certainly not the wine that I had several months ago. (Not rated)

Decided to shift palates to more tension and bubbles so a 1999 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart was served. This is a wine that I had several times already this year and I like it more and more. It feels the wine is in the right spot today and should be holding well for several more years, but why wait when it is so good. It’s got a rich mousse with plenty of tiny bubbles and a nose that sports intense aromas of smoky citrus fruit, caramel and biscuit. Very tense and razor sharp acidity after the reds, with smoky seashell and bright grapefruit palate. Long. (93-94/100)

Decided to stay on a similar note with high acidity and citrus fruit so a 2013 Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur was opened and decanted. Yes decanted. This has lots of chalky minerality, citrus fruit and Granny smith apple aromas. Mouth watering acidity, it combines very well ripe citrus fruit, wet stone minerals with riper flavors of grapefruit and chamomile. Medium plus long finish, lively citrus fruit. (92/100)

When in doubt and want some tenser and riper refreshment go for a rose sparkling, preferably a Vintage. Champagne Bollinger La Grande Annee Rose 2004 is a Champagne for the long run and mostly a keeper. Some Champagne should be decanted. We did not do it, but I would recommend it. Light coppery color with small and rich bubble. Complex from the beginning it just got better in the glass in time. Intense and fresh nose filled with pink grapefruit skin, small red berries, citrus fruit and minerals. Very tense on the palate, it feels it has a Baroque type of structure of tannin and acidity that still hides its aromatic layers. Good potential here. (94/100)

Last wine of the night was Champagne Cristal 2007. This punches the nose with smoky aromas of seashell, dried meat and citrus fruit. Razor sharp acidity at this stage, it needs time in the glass to get softer to reveal lively lemons, slate minerals and smoke, with a clean and sharp focus. Medium plus long finish, very fresh and a weightless mouth feel that makes it so easy to drink. (94/100)

Ended the evening quite late and had a hard time finding a cab to get home. That was a first and very unpleasant to stand up in the cold street waiting for a taxi to take my order.

Between Les Clos: Moreau and Droin

Had dinner at home over a weekend and wanted to spice up the meal with a comparison of 2 wines made of the famous and celebrated Grand Cru from Chablis: Les Clos. 2 different vintages and certainly different style of wines. However both share the quality factor.

2013 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is a wine I Coravined since December 29th 2015 and tasted it at least 3-4 times prior and had the last 2 glasses only now. The wine has a pronounced citric fruit and wet stone nose, with fresh and vibrant lemon and grapefruit palate, mouth watering acidity and gun powder like minerality. Medium plus finish with a saline, oyster shell lemon aftertaste. (92/100)

2010 Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is slightly different. There is a riper profile, with more exotic yellow fruit here, color is medium yellow gold. Nose is richer and dominated by white peach, grapefruit and chamomile, with slate and gun powder minerality. Richer on the palate, it mirrors very well the same flavors as the nose with lavish yellow fruit and a more settled acidity that makes it round and appealing. Medium to long finish, with yellow flowers and lemons. (93/100)

Both wines have a long life ahead and in my opinion would both benefit from a short decant to open up properly. I actually enjoyed the Moreau so much I bought all the very few bottles left of 2010 Les Clos from real-wineboutique as it seemed to be the only one with any bottles available.

Some great whites: Olivier Leflaive, Billecart-Salmon, Tement etc

Had a lovely dinner on WED evening at La Brasserie restaurant in Herastrau with some beautiful wines. Started earlier with a stunning Puligny Montrachet by Olivier Leflaive.

2012 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Pucelles’ needs at least 45 minutes in a decanter to open up and when it does it is simply kaleidoscopic. Color is medium yellow gold. Nose is profound and luxuriant, stone fruit, papaya, toast and butterscotch center the stage. Rich and vibrant yellow fruit pours lavishly on the lively palate, with intense and long rich citrus fruit and chamomile finish. Simply gorgeous. (95/100)

I was invited to blind taste this wine at the beginning of our dinner and I managed to spot there is an older Sauvignon Blanc from Austria. Tement as far as I read is the best producer of Austrian Sauvignon Blanc. Perhaps I am wrong here.

2007 Tement Zieregg Rezerve IZ is indeed a Sauvignon Blanc that spent 30 months in oak barrels. The wine has amazing richness both on the nose and the palate. Nose is filled with generous aromas of slate minerality, cut hay, white melon and passion fruit. Very rich on the palate with medium acidity, it shows abundant yellow fruit and flowers. Quiet long and ripe. (92/100)

1999 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Nicolas Francois Billecart comes with a razor sharp acidity after Tement. This has a classy nose of smoked citrus fruit, baked apples and biscuit, tense and precise, with a citrus infused long finish. (94/100)

2005 Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot needs to be properly decanted of its sediment and to breath for at least 45 minutes. This has a mineral, gamey and red fruit generous nose that just keeps on getting better. Supple on the palate, it has a Burgundian character written all over it. Syrah for Pinot lovers. (94/100)

More wines followed but did not manage to pay the proper attention to take notes on: 2007 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino, 2009 Davino Rezerva Rosu, 2006 Vinarte Aniversare Merlot Rezerva, 2012 Davino Rezerva Blanc. Night ended with a second bottle of 2012 Olivier Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Pucelles’. Sometimes you can just have it all.