Scoala Vinului reprezinta o oportunitate unica pentru participanti de a invata tainele vinului si de a-si descoperi talentele ascunse in arta degustarii. “Studentii” vor fi purtati pe melagurile aromelor si gusturilor de traineri autorizati care ii vor ajuta sa aprecieze diferentele subtile dintre tipurile de vin si le vor oferi posibilitatea de a urma cursuri de introducere in lumea vinului. Acestia vor invata cum sa aprecieze un vin bun dar si tehnici de servire si asociere a vinului cu mancarea, iar la final vor primi diplome de participare.
Scoala Vinului este structurata pe 5 module sustinute de specialisti din domeniul vinului, dupa cum urmeaza:
Introducere– Valeriu V. Cotea
Modul 1: Vinurile lumii
Catalin Paduraru – Degustator autorizat ADAR
Modul 2: Asociere vin mancare
Marian Timofti – Presedinte OSR 2011
Arta si aprofundarea degustarii
Modul 3: Vinuri din soiuri traditionale romanesti
Cintia Colibaba – Cercetator in domeniul viti-vinicol
Modul 4: Vinuri cupajate
Liviu Grigorica – Membru al comitetului de conducere ADAR
Modul 5: Vinuri baricate
Catalin Zamfir – Degustator autorizat ADAR
Vor fi organizate cate 2 degustari/modul.
Scoala vinului se desfasoara sambata, 8decembrie intre orele 12:00 – 19:00 in Sala Conferinta Showroom PALAS. Pretul unui bilet este de 250 de lei (include participarea la toate modulele).
Aflat la prima ediție, Tutored Tastings reprezintă o suită de 7 seminarii susținute de profesioniști în domeniu, pe teme cheie de interes pentru pasionații de vinuri. Astfel, prin participarea la aceste seminarii, iubitorii de vin pot deprinde din tainele, istoria și specificul celor mai apreciate și deosebite vinuri.
Vinuri din lumea noua – VINERI, 7 decembrie 16:45 – 18:15
Lector: Prof.dr. Valeriu V.Cotea – Presedinte Onorific al Festivalului PROVINO
Vinuri premiate cu aur – VINERI, 7 decembrie 18:30 – 20:00
Lector: Catalin Paduraru – Degustator autorizat ADAR, Ambasador al Vinului
Veti degusta: CASTEL VINUM Selection Gewurztraminer 2011, LILIAC TRANSYLVANIA – Sauvignon Blanc 2011, COTNARI – Grasa 1984, CALOIAN – Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, ALIRA – Merlot 2009, BUDUREASCA – ORIGINI – FeteascaNeagra
Vinuri din soiuri traditionale romanesti – SAMBATA, 8 decembrie 12:30 – 14:00
Lector: Dr.ing. Cintia Colibaba – Cercetator in domeniul viti-vinicol
Veti degusta: Tamaioasaromaneasca/Francusa, Sarba, Feteasca neagra, Busuioaca de Bohotin, Zghihara, Babeasca neagra
Vinuri cupajate vs vinuri necupajate – SAMBATA, 8 decembrie 15:00 – 16:30
Lector: Ing. Liviu Grigorica – Membru al comitetului de conducere ADAR
Veti degusta: Feteasca Regala, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon & Feteasca, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, Merlot, Pinot Noir & Shiraz & Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon
Vinuri baricate versus vinuri nebaricate – Sambata, 8decembrie 16:45 – 18:15
Lector: Dr.ing. Catalin Zamfir – Degustator autorizat ADAR
Veti degusta: Sauvignon Blanc 2011 baricat, Sauvignon Blanc 2011 nebaricat, Feteasca Neagra 2011 baricat, Feteasca Neagra 2010 nebaricat, Merlot 2009 baricat 12 luni, Merlot 2011 baricat 6 luni, Chardonnay baricat, Chardonnay nebaricat
Vinurile Brunello di Montalcino – SAMBATA, 8 Decembrie 18:30 – 20:00
Lector: Marian Timofti – Presedinte OSR 2011
Veti degusta: Rosso di Montalcino, Morellino di Scansano, Brunello di Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino “Vigna del Fiore”, Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Istoria podgoriilor din Romania – DUMINICA, 9 decembrie 11:30-13:30
Lectori: Ing. Traian Petrea si Ing. Gheorghe Craciunescu – Degustatori autorizati ADAR
Seminarul este deschis publicului larg, gratuit, dar daca iubitorii de vin doresc sa participe si la degustari, pretul biletului este de 25 de lei.
Veti degusta vinuri din podgoriile: Tarnave, Recas, Mehedinti, Dealu Mare, Vrancea, Husi, Iasi, Cotnari
Seminariile Tutored Tastings vor avea loc in Sala Vivaldi – PALAS Iasi Lifestyle Center si pretul unui bilet/seminar este de 125 Lei.
If it’s MON, chances are you might receive a call and get a new invitation to attend a new session with the very special Wine Club. I used to hate MON, but recently I discovered that I started to look forward to it. A call from this club is synonymous with a successful night out.
So here we are: I got invited once again. I did not know what’s going to be served but the surprises were at least very interesting and provided enough material for constructive discussions. We met at Casa di David and I have to say food was exquisite. Matching the wines with the food was smartly picked so the overall experience was flawless.
We had a seafood assortment containing Carpaccio of Dentex, sea-bass, shrimps, octopus and tuna served with a white from Languedoc, pasta with tomatoes and basil with an Australian Shiraz and a juicy magret de canard with a perfectly roasted crunchy skin on the outside with citrus fruit and sweet sauce pairing a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
2010 Chateau Capion Le Colombier Terrasses du Larzac Languedoc
Blend of 65% Viognier and 35% Roussanne. Yellow straw color. A well developed and sweet nose, reminding more of a sweet wine, showing lavish aromas of honey and linden mixed with dried stone fruits. Full, ample and unctuous on the palate, low acidity but still gaining credits by showing richness. Medium plus finish, a bit spicy. (88/100)
The salty flavors of the sea food dish paired extremely well with the sweet aromas of this white wine.
2008 M. Chapoutier Domaine Tournon Lady’s Lane Heathcote-Victoria Shiraz Australia
Decanted and left to breath for almost 2 hours and it still did not open up completely. This is far away from the unpleasant Australian fruit bombs. Deep red color. The nose is well developed and tempered, but showing good complexity and depth. It is ripe but there is more than just fruit behind it. Full bodied, rich and powerful, well balanced, the wine remains velvety on the palate, with sweet ripe tannins that feel completely integrated and flavors of dried figs, liquorice, black pepper, blackberry and bilberry jams. The finish is long with spicy, pure blackberry essence. The wine is big but it is elegant and well contained. 14.5% (90-91/100)
It paired pretty well with the pasta dish.
2008 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley
This one was decanted and left to breath for about 2h and a half. Opaque, deep red-purple color. This is an absolutely amazing wine. It has 15.5% alcohol, but it is perfectly balanced and you wouldn’t guess the high level.
A well developed, intense, elegant and complex nose, it has depth and it shows layers as it opens up. The aromatic profile shows sweet cassis, liquorice, smoke, leather, prunes, bilberry, cedar and sandalwood. Remarkably well structured, balanced, rich and elegant, this full bodied wine displays intense flavors complexity, which makes it rather difficult to describe, but it is the reason why it is a success. It is rich in tannin and from the first sip you can feel it is a manly wine, supple, showing distinguished flavors of prunes, blackberry, cedar and dark chocolate. The finish is long and rich. A wine that is perfectly enjoyable as it is now, but also with tremendous aging potential; it can evolve further and develop even more complexities. 15.5% (93/100)
It matched very well the duck breast’s juiciness, while the sweet sauce brought freshness to this wine.
Have I mentioned I love some MONDAY’s ?
Desfasurat intr-o noua locatie mult mai spatioasa: Romexpo complex C1, editia din toamna a targului de vinuri Goodwine face pasii necesari pentru a se apropia gradual de standardele targurilor internationale de vinuri. Standuri mai mari si mai aerisite, iar efectul a fost imediat resimtit: desi sambata era lume multa te puteai misca in voie pe culoare. De asemenea avand standuri mai mari, am observat ca fiecare producator a crescut numarul personalului astfel incat nu trebuia sa stai prea mult la coada sa poti degusta ce doresti. Trebuie sa salutam initiativa organizotorilor Goodwine pentru schimbarea locatiei si sa speram ca vom vedea urmatoarele editii in format si mai extins.
Am apreciat de asemenea initiativa unor noi producatori care au decis sa participe la acest targ pentru prima oara: Cramele Halewood, dar si crame sau distribuitori din tara sau din afara tarii: Ecoreca, Vinitaly Deluxe si Smartdrinks din Romania, si Crama Borha importator de vinuri spaniole.
Am descoperit si redescoperit vinuri noi si vinuri mai vechi care au evoluat surprinzator. Doresc sa le multumesc tuturor producatorilor si distribuitorilor pe care i-am vizitat pentru disponibilitatea si timpul acordat, dar si pentru explicatiile detaliate si prezentarile oferite.
Ca sa rezum ziua de sambata pe care am petrecut-o aproape in totalitate la Goodwine voi mentiona vinurile care m-au surprins si mi-au placut in mod deosebit.
– la Cramele Halewood dl Muntean (foto) a avut amabilitatea alaturi de enologul Lorena Deaconu de a-mi prezenta personal noile vinuri care vor fi lansate in viitorul apropiat. As putea spune ca urmatoarele trei vinuri au fost pentru mine cateva dintre revelatiile targului: 2008 Rheea Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon (un vin “uitat” imbuteliat in crama pentru o perioada mai lunga la maturare care aminteste de un cupaj din Bordeaux de pe Malul Drept – Saint-Emilion), o noua Feteasca Neagra 2009 care va intra in gama Hyperion dar cu o noua eticheta care provine dintr-un lot situat la o altitudine mai ridicata (500 m) fata de viile care produc Hyperion FN, mult mai densa si mai interesanta, dar si noul Cantus Primus Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 care are toate calitatile unui an de exceptie (2009). Cramele Halewood pregatesc noi lansari interesante in ciuda numarului mare de etichete deja existente in portofoliul lor.
– la Crama Oprisor am degustat alaturi de o doamna, Veronica Gheorghiu, despre care am aflat ca este enologul de serviciu alaturi de Liviu Grigorica toata gama superioara: Eticheta Rosie Cab Sauv, Smerenie, Nenumita 2008 si Cutia Paleologu 2007. Pentru mine Cutia Paleologu 2007 ramane vinul de top al Cramei Oprisor.
– Crama Borha este importatorul unor vinuri de exceptie din Spania: La Rioja Alta, unul dintre cei mai consacrati producatori din Rioja, care pastreaza inca stilul Old School care a consacrat vinurile de Rioja. Preturile sunt comparabile cu cele din Spania. Am re-degustat un vin pe care il apreciez mult: 2001 La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva Especial (4 ani in baricuri americane si inca 3-5 ani maturare in sticla). Mai spectaculoase sunt 1998 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904 si 1995 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 890.
– vis-a-vis de ei un alt importator de vinuri spaniole, crama Arzuaga, cu vinuri placute dar din pacate cu marketing ieftin. Sustineau hotarat ca vinul La Planta din Ribera del Duero (un vin tanar si fructat, un Tempranillo modern) cu pretul de 45 Ron ar fi vandut ca si vinul casei la Burj al Arab in Dubai la 300 Eur sticla. Permiteti-mi sa am anumite rezerve.
– la Crama Basilescu am gasit o Feteasca Neagra 2009 interesanta, desi destul de neimblanzita si agresiva pentru moment. Sa-i dam inca 1-2 ani si ar trebui sa observam o metamorfoza frumoasa.
– la Cramele Recas o mini verticala de Cuvee Uberland de 3 ani : 2006, 2009 si 2011, a dezvaluit un 2006 care ar trebui consumat acum si care a virat catre un profil de fruct foarte copt. Regret profund ca nu am mai ajuns duminica la degustarea unor vinuri de import de top din portofoliul Cramelor Recas care se pare ca si-au imbogatit numarul etichetelor de import: Louis Latour Corton-Charlemagne, Louis Latour Chassagne Montrachet rosu si inca 1-2 etichete de prestigiu care au fost incluse in aceasta degustare. Ii invidiez pe cei care au fost prezenti acolo duminica.
– poate cel mai surprinzator si, in opinia mea, poate cel mai bun vin dulce romanesc: Dessert Stirbey vandut in sticla de 375 ml cu un nivel scazut al alcoolului: 9.5% si o aciditate de Riesling din Mosel. Probabil nici cei mai carcotasi nu au ce sa-i reproseze ca si calitate.
– Petro Vaselo surprinde din nou cu politica de preturi. Am degustat un Chardonnay maturat 6 luni in baricuri lansat recent si oferit la 78-80 Ron sticla. E bine ca industria continua sa ne surprinda.
– la SERVE am incercat noul Terra Romana Rose 2012 (nu inteleg cursa acestui producator de a scoate primul, vinul rose al noii recolte) si Cuvee Amaury 2011 (colegii mei au dreptate sa-l pozitioneze peste cel din 2010). Ca si simplu amator cred ca graba de a fi primul si a grabi lucrurile in acest domeniu nu este neaparat strategia cea mai buna.
– la standul Avincis am reintalnit-o pe Angela Prado care, intr-o romana superba, as putea zice ca a oferit cea mai buna prezentare a unor vinuri de la acest targ. Sincer, ar putea convinge pe oricine sa inceapa sa aprecieze vinul. Desigur prezentarea a fost sustinuta si de calitatea vinurilor.
Am degustat mai mult decat am scris si, ca si concluzie, as zice ca editiile viitoare ale targului Goodwine nu trebuiesc ratate. Imi pare rau ca l-am ratat pe Marc Dworkin si nu am avut ocazia sa-l salut.
I was invited to attend a very interesting tasting organized by Le Manoir, the Romanian importer and distributor of Michel Rolland’s wines. I believe, or would like to believe, that any person that likes and consumes wine, or at least is interested in wine, heard about Michel Rolland. As debatable as his wines are perceived for being too extracted or too oaky, most of the prestigious Chateaux in Bordeaux employ his consulting services. He is definitely a great blender.
Last night Mr Rolland’s son-in-law, David Lesage, presented some of the wines included in the so-called Rolland’s Collection. I actually met Mr Lesage one year ago when he conducted another wine session presenting the same Collection but some from different vintages, session organized also by Le Manoir. His presentations are interesting and engaging, filled with technical details but also spiced up with “behind the curtain” information.
I found out last night that in Bordeaux it became mandatory to mention the alcohol level on the labels starting with the ’70s. If the alcohol level is above the appellation’s rules a producer might not be able to use the AOC for that particular vintage. Mr. Lesage mentioned how Michel Rolland had the initiative to measure the alcohol level in a legendary wine: 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc and the result is just staggering: 14.8%. Should the 1970s regulations have been in place in 1947, Cheval Blanc would have not carried the Saint-Emilion Grand Cru appelation. Interesting information for a wine geek. So the blamed high alcohol levels we see often today on Bordeaux wines are not a first.
We started with a white wine made from a 1 ha plot from Lussac-Saint-Émilion, normally a red wine appellation, labelled as a Bordeaux Blanc and produced in a relative short supply. The wine is aged for up to 12 months in new French oak barrels. The use of new French oak barrels is a common thing to all wines in the Rolland’s Collection. Chateau La Grande Clotte 2009 is a white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gris, Semillon and up to 50% Muscadelle. The wine is opulent, both on the nose, as on the palate, oaky and elegant is the last word that comes to my mind when describing this wine. A wine that grabs your attention immediately but a bit too much for me.
Next two wines were 2002 and 2005 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol served in parallel from two separate glasses to better compare them. The 2002 is completely open and ready to drink, showing pronounced aromas of green vegetables, green bell pepper and grass, (2002 was a rainy and hard to ripe vintage in Bordeaux) mixed with smoke, red fruits and a touch of minerals. Full bodied and filling the palate, fresh, structured, with assertive tannins. The wine is a pleasure to drink right now and has no problem holding further years. (90-91/100)
2005 Le Bon Pasteur is at a different stage. The wine feels tempered and restraint compared to 2002, but it has a depth and a complexity not matched by its older brother. Well structured, grippy tannins, fresh, ripe, full and hiding a lot of potential. Long and best to be left alone for now. (92/100)
Next wine was Le Defi de Fontenil, a 100% Merlot made only 5 or 6 times since 1999: 2000, 2001, 2004, 2005, 2008 and 2009 (if I understood correctly). Even though the property sits in Fronsac, the wine is labelled as a simple Vin de Table because INAO did not approve the experiment started in 2000 by Dany and Michel Rolland to place plastic sheeting on the soil between the rows of vines on some plots in Château Fontenil to prevent rain penetration during the month preceding the harvest. It is probably one of the most, if not the most expensive Vin de Table produced in France. The berries are fermented in open oak barrels custom made for the Chateau, while the temperature is controlled by the use of dry ice. Aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels, this is an opulent, super concentrated and hedonistic expression of Merlot. We had the 2005 vintage which is extremely youthful, oaky, concentrated, structured, with fine sweet and fully ripe tannins. Long finish with opulent aromas and flavors of plums, cassis and prunes. Too young to be fully enjoyed at the moment. Probably a guy on steroids would mirror the image of this wine. A style that has its own fans.
Being a Vin de Table the producer is not allowed to mentioned the vintage on the label, however on the back label it is specified differently this information: 2005 appears as 05 and similarly for other vintages.
The 2003 Remhoogte Bonne Nouvelle made in South Africa, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinotage shows a more classic line, in complete antitheses with Le Defi de Fontenil. It is a style that I like more and it is hard to stay away from its pleasant smoky profile. Really balanced and perfectly enjoyable. At almost 10 years of age it is youthful and capable to hold many more years.
Last two wines were both Malbec’s made in Argentina: Val de Flores 2004 from vineyards sitting at 1000 m altitude, and Yacochuya 2004 from vines sitting at over 2000 m altitude. The climates are completely different as the properties are separated by over 1000 km. Both wines show an incredible high alcohol level: 15% for Val de Flores and a staggering 16.5% for Yacochuya, both are powerful wines but show amazing balance, ripe sweet tannins, structure and concentration to hide the heat. Yacochuya is massive and super-concentrated, probably one the most concentrated wines I tasted so far and yet silky on the palate. (91-92/100) for Val de Flores 2004 and (93-94/100) for Yacochuya 2004.
There was also a Spanish Tempranillo made in Toro: 2003 Campo Eliseo (Champs Elysées in French), a wine made together with Jacques Lurton. A modern expression of Tempranillo.
The tasting was fun and interesting and after so much alcohol I left home a happy man. Before this event I actually had the chance to taste 3 other great wines: 2001 Masi Mazzano (92-93/100), 2006 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco showing already a good approachability (91/100) and a very young and woody 2009 Tignanello (91/100).
Recently released and available to be enjoyed just in time for the American Thanksgiving day, the Beaujolais Nouveau is a wine made of Gamay grapes, hand picked and undergoing carbonic maceration. Entire, unbroken grapes are placed in a controlled environment with no oxygen contact, while the fermentation process starts from within each grape. It is the first wine of the harvest and due to carbonic maceration, the wines show a very fruity profile with additional aromas of bananas, a low tannins presence and low alcohol. These are wines to be enjoyed over the short term for their fruity character.
2012 Joseph Drouhin Beaujolais Nouveau
Bright ruby color. Bright red fruits, bananas, later red fruits jams and a slight dose of green coffee make up the medium intense nose. Low to medium body, watery, but fruity and lively on the palate. Short to medium finish, with a mild bitter-sweet flavor. Unpretentious but easy to drink. The nose is the strength of this wine. 12.5% alc (82/100)
Sample provided by the importer: Le Manoir. Available for 45 Ron.
I had this wine over two days and, retrospectively, this was probably the best way to understand and judge it. Just uncorked and poured on the first day the overall impression was rather disappointing considering the pricing.
2009 Blanc de Lynch Bages
Color is pale yellow lemon with some green reflections. On the first day the nose is quite restraint, the aromas are discreet and the wine seems somehow not expressive. On day two the nose gets more intense, showing good freshness, bright fruits, acacia, grapefruit, smart oak and peach. Medium bodied, fresh, pleasant citrus and stone fruits, bananas and a touch of vanilla, and a medium finish with an exotic fruit flavor. Considering the behavior I would dare to recommend decanting this wine for 2-3 hours before drinking it. It would allow its flavors to shine and make the overall tasting far more enjoyable. (91/100)
Last night I was invited, as a guest, to attend a wine dinner organized by a special Wine Club that will remain undisclosed at this moment. The session was dedicated to Italian wines. I had no idea what will be served, but the surprise was overwhelming. The dinner took place in a prime restaurant and the food was fantastic: veal carapaccio, spaghetti pomodoro basilico, grilled Black Angus entrecote and a very special dessert: truffle, white chocolate and truffle ice cream served with a very special wine: Chateau d’Yquem 1981.
We were six people so there was plenty of wine to taste and drink for each of us. We started with a very young Barbaresco.
2007 La Spinetta Barbaresco Vigneto Bordini
This is an extremely young wine but it is so approachable. Dark red garnet color. A youthful and developing nose, intense, refined, showing beautiful aromas of flowers: dried rose petals and violets, tar, ripe black cherry and raspberry, cocoa, with hints of spices: anise and cloves. This is super concentrated on the palate, balanced and well structured, bone dry tannins and as much as a Barbaresco is known to be hard to enjoy when young, this wine drinks very well already. Long finish, with a velvety feel. Youthful but so good. (91-92/100)
One of the participants at the dinner used to work for about 7 years in Toscana at Poggio di Sotto during the summer vacation, so not only did he make a contribution with the next wine, but he also explained the story of this interesting winery. Poggio di Sotto is fairly small in Montalcino with only 12 ha of vines, making around 30.000 bottles of Brunello and Rosso din Montalcino every year. The wine-making process is traditional, with long maceration, extensive maturation in large 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels – for each wine there is an additional one year of aging in the barrel aside from the minimum imposed by the Regulators. Poggio di Sotto was recently sold to a large Italian wine company that has properties all over Italy, but wanted to own a premium, cult-like winery.
2005 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino
Medium red garnet color. Complex, deep, profound, refined, showing fine spices, cocoa powder, leather, red fruits preserves and a citrus fruit freshness on the nose. Silky mouth-feel, amazing structure and balance, ripe tannins, extremely fresh with a feather like texture, long finish, fresh all along the way. Exquisite, long black cherry aftertaste. So young but so open and such a pleasure to drink it. (93-94/100)
Next wine comes from a legendary traditional producer. I guess anybody that inquired at a certain moment about Brunello di Montalcino knows this producer as being a pioneer of quality driven wines.
1971 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Good fill level. The bottle was uncorked and left to slowly breath for about 3 hours. Red ruby color with a brick rim, a bit cloudy as it comes in contact with air. A maturing bouquet, with initial volatile acids that blew off after another 20 minutes in the glass, still showing discreet red fruit preserves, autumn forest floor, tobacco, balsamic notes, saline, leather and black olives. Medium bodied, initially looking like fading away but with more aeration in the glass opening up more and more. Mature, fresh, mint and black olives on the palate, acidity keeps everything in place and, as it aerates, it shows discreet tannins. Medium finish, fresh and earthy. (88-89/100)
After this line up of amazing wines I found out that dessert will be paired with 1981 Chateau d’Yquem. Life can be full of good surprises sometimes.
1981 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes
This came from a small 0.375 cl bottle and was open for more than 8 hours but that did not alter the quality of this amazing wine. Deep gold-amber color. A complex bouquet, very intense, combining aromas of mandarins, botrytis, apricots, white pepper and brown sugar. Medium bodied, it has a wonderful balance, elegant, delicious flavors of dried apricots and sweet lemons and amazingly lively on the palate. Long spicy-cardamon finish, with pleasant bitter-sweet orange peel flavor. (93-94/100)
It was a wonderful wine dinner.