Dinner with Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon, Unico, Evangile and more

Met my usual group of wine aficionados again last night for dinner and had some amazing wines. Started with this sublime vintage rose Champagne that I remember having last time about 1-2 years ago, but from a different vintage, 2000 if I remember correctly. We had all Champagne’s from the Zalto white wine glass that I find it complements a lot the way Champagne tastes like. Probably the only issue here would be that it does not stimulate enough the bubble persistence as the regular sparkling glass does. As aromas are concerned, I believe it focuses very well the full aromatic profile of the Champagne.

2002 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon Rose has a light coppery color with small and rich bubbles. This is a Champagne to keep in the glass and smell it over and over as it changes its aromas constantly. It starts fresh and classy with small red berries, dough and a salty seashell aroma, and, with air, it develops pomegranate and pink grapefruit. Gracious but powerful in the mouth, it has a strong backbone of acidity and discreet tannin, with layers of flavors that build like a skyscraper on the palate, creating a sense of immersion and depth. Long finish that goes on for good seconds. This is a very elegant and classy rose that I absolutely love. (96/100)

First red of the night was a high roller that got awarded a perfect 100 points by the Wine Spectator. The 2005 Chateau L’Evangile was decanted for about 2 hours before being consumed. The color is dark red garnet. Nose is already expressive and very complex, with a ripe but fresh profile. Lavish aromas of plums, sour cherry, dark chocolate and ink build a complex aromatic profile that just continues to develop new aromas in the glass. Silky smooth on the palate already in spite of its high velvety tannin structure, it is profound and rich, with lush flavors of chocolate and black cherry, gravel minerality and paprika. Long finish, combines fruit and bitter sweet chocolate in the lingering aftertaste. It disappeared from the glasses fairly quickly. (97/100)

A friend said that today it is at its peak and there is not more to develop from now on. I believe it will be on this plateau for many years to come and that it will develop into an even more interesting wine. Future will tell.

2010 seems to be THE vintage for Brunello di Montalcino. I believe most of the wines coming from reliable producers will develop and surprise wine drinkers in time. It should be a strong addition for the cellar.

Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino 2010 from Gaja is a youthful and powerful wine today. It sports a deep red garnet color. Even after 3 h in a decanter the wine continues to be shy in revealing its full aromatic profile. There are of course fruity aromas of black cherry, sour cherry and blackberry, well complemented by spices and blue flowers, but you can feel that not everything is disclosed yet. On the palate it is powerful, with assertive velvety tannin well dressed into rich layers of red and black fruit and spices, with fresh aromatic herbs that give depth. Long finish, tannin is assertive again and indicates patience is required. (94/100)

Also decanted for about 3-4 h, the 2007 Vega-Sicilia Unico is a wine to keep on smelling and discovering in the glass. It has a deep red garnet color, and since my last encounter this bottle shows a slightly different aromatic profile. Yes the oak is still there but not that prominent, and there’s a new layer of dill and orange peel that did not feel it before. Rich and powerful on the palate. (94/100)

Two more Champagne’s were served. A 2003 Dom Perignon Rose that has a deep red onion peel color with abundant mousse, a rich and vinous mouth-feel. It feels denser and has a completely different personality compared to the previous Cuvee Elisabeth Salmon. If that was ethereal, the Dom Perignon Rose is robust and swings in full throttle. (95-96/100)

Last wine of the night and a first time for me was the 2004 Champagne Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame. It has a light yellow lemon color, with tiny and rich bubbles. Fresh but complex on the nose, it has lots of citrus fruit, brioche and nuts, with a rich palate of pear and Granny smith apples, mouth watering acidity and appealing elegance. Long and refreshing citrus fruit finish. (94/100)

That was the end of a fun and engaging dinner with friends.

Lovely lunch with 2 from Davino and a Vega-Sicilia Unico

Has a lovely lunch about 2 weeks ago with a couple of friends and tasted some top Romanian wines and an iconic Spanish wine from Vega-Sicilia. There is a huge gap price wise between these wines: Spanish vs Romanian, and one has to think thoroughly if it is worth it. I have a few friends that are Unico ambassadors by choice, but hey who wouldn’t like to drink Valbuena, Unico or Reserva Especial every day ?

Vega-Sicilia Unico 2007 was opened already for 24 h and 1 glass was taken out. So, properly aerated. Even at this stage the oak influence is quite assertive both on the nose and the palate. There is rich and elegant fruit here, it has depth on the nose, but it does not confirm yet the same sheer class on the palate. It is young but I do not see it at the same level as the 2000 or 2004. The oak flavors seem to upfront for now. (94/100)

Davino Flamboyant 2010 was decanted for about 45 minutes and drank over 1 h. Deep dark red color. Its aromatic profile resembles a Super Tuscan, with the sunny ripe and spicy black fruit. Rich on the palate, high tannin that needs big food to feel smooth, lots of black fruit and spicy. Medium to long finish. (92/100)

Davino Rezerva Red 2010 was also decanted for 45 minutes and drank over 2 h. This is closer to a Bordeaux. There is more freshness and red fruit here than in Flamboyant. It has a paprika, black currant and meat stock profile. A bit more flesh, refreshing tannin that seems to be smoother on the palate. Longer finish with lots of dark chocolate. Loved the freshness here. (93/100)

 

Four great wines: Pierre Yves Colin Morey, Bruno Giacosa, Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc and Duhart Milon

Had a lovely dinner on Monday evening at a friend’s house and four people managed to go quickly through 4 bottles of wines in just a couple of hours. It was not intended as a speed contest but when the wine is that good it just dries quickly from the glass.

2012 Pierre Yves Colin-Morey Santenay 1er Cru “La Comme” was a stunning surprise for all of us. It’s the first time I’m buying and tasting this producer and for sure it won’t be the last time. In fact it just opened my appetite for discovering more of his wines. This Chardonnay from a less famous Burgundy appellation needs to spend some time in the decanter in order to reveal its exotic and exuberant aromatic profile. Rich and decadent, it exudes very intense aromas of ripe tropical fruits, yellow melon and mango, with complex shades of toast and vanilla. Again rich and highly textured in the mouth, it shows a perfect balance between sweet tropical fruit, stone minerality and vibrant acidity. Long finish, fresh with sweet fruit lingering in the aftertaste. I see lots of similarities with a great 1er Cru Puligny Montrachet. (95/100)

Second white was 2013 Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc that shows good richness of citrus and tropical fruit, with vanilla and honeysuckle nose. It is more supple, with higher acidity typical for a Sauvignon Blanc, but overall a well balanced, rich and complete wine. (94/100)

2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco spent about 1 h 30 min in the decanter before being poured. In the Burgundy Zalto glass this wine opens up very nice and quickly. It shows a rich aromatic profile where tar, fresh raspberries and rose petals take the center stage, and as it breathes more profound aromas of savory truffles jump from the glass. Supple and very smooth for such a young Barbaresco, it is full and supple on the palate, with silky smooth tannins, sweet and pure red cherry and raspberry fruit, spices and savory cured meat. Long finish, very elegant and feminine wine. (94-95/100)

2010 Chateau Duhart Milon spent only 20 minutes in the decanter before being poured in the glass, and it is surprisingly open already. It shows sweet cassis and pencil shavings, with refreshing cedar and brett. Full bodied, strong but polished tannins, good intensity of the fruit on the palate that balances the tannin structure. Long finish. (94/100)

Not an average wine-dinner

I was recently invited to attend the anniversary dinner organized by a good friend celebrating his birthday. A wine geek himself and big fan of red Italian and prestige wines, it was no surprise that the red wines tasted were all from Italy. With one exception the rest of the wines were all a first encounter for me.

Tuna tartar, fresh oysters and lobster salad were served with 2004 Cristal Champagne. A pale yellow lemon color with smooth and rich mousse, that opened up in stages on the nose and palate. Fresh dough, citrus fruit and a hint of crushed stones form the medium(+) intense and well developed nose. Medium(+) body, very acidic on the first sip, it opens up with air and becomes rounder, mellower and more enjoyable. Medium(+) finish, with bright citrus fruit, Granny Smith apple acidity and lingering hints of minerals. (92/100)

Served with fresh pasta with butter and white truffles it was 2009 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Leognan). It ranks in the first Top 3 white wines I had this year. The color is pale yellow lemon. The nose shows great Pessac-Leognan typicality with generic smoked vanilla and tropical fruits, but it starts up gradually in intensity. The first nose is shy and it takes about 2 hours to fully reveal its intensity. It’s a different story on the palate: the level of flavor concentration it’s outstanding, you can literally taste fresh vanilla, smoke, fresh tangerines, mango and papaya, pears, peaches and white apricots. Flawless mouth-feel, medium acidity (that’s a surprise and probably that’s why is so enjoyable now), balanced and intense. Long finish, fresh and flamboyant, with plenty of exotic and tropical fruits. I fell in love with it. (97-98/100)

Shifting to reds, the menu moved towards red meat: medium-rare tuna steak with grilled vegetables. Served in parallel there were 2006 Trinoro from Tenuta di Trinoro and 2007 Masseto from Ornellaia. 2006 Trinoro has the nose and mouth-feel of an Amarone. The color is deep dark red garnet. The nose is medium(+) intense, well developed and rich, with unusual Amarone like aromas: chocolate, rum and over ripe black fruits: blackberry, black cherry, cranberry and leather. The taste is full bodied, rich and concentrated, with medium polished tannins, with juicy blackberry, rum and chocolate. Medium(+) finish, black fruit liquor and sweet feel. (89-90/100)

2007 Masseto is a totally different ball game. Tasted blind this could go for a sunny Pomerol. The color is medium red garnet color. Pronounced, elegant, well developed and complex nose, it takes time to open up. A mix of black cherry, plums, chocolate, cedar and graphite are just a few aromas of the complex nose. Full bodied, yet supple and elegant, the wine is a  monument of balance and complexity. The high level of polished tannins, the richness and concentration are outstanding. The 15% alcohol is just a number in this case, because the wine has freshness, elegance and a weightless mouth-feel. Long and pronounced finish, with fresh red fruits and coffee. (98/100)

A 2008 Trinoro was also served to see if it has a similar profile of an Amarone like 2006. The color is deep red garnet. The nose is well developed, pronounced, intense and sweet. The ripe black fruit profile is there but manages to preserve freshness and hints of coffee. Full body, high polished and sweet tannins, sweet and juicy blackberry and cranberry, dark chocolate, plums, but still fresh. Long finish, lingering juicy black fruits. (93/100)

Dinner was finished with a NV Billecart-Salmon Rose to wash the palate. Pink salmon color, intense mousse. Biscuit, bright red fruits and grapefruit, fresh and citrus palate, medium finish. (90-91/100)

O verticala de exceptie cu Dom Perignon

Desi initiat de o scurta perioada de timp – aproximativ 3-4 luni, Clubul Vinului de la restaurantul La Brasserier Bistro&Lounge din Bucuresti incepe sa devina o miscare inchinata vinului care rivalizeaza cu cele mai selecte cluburi de vin internationale.

Deja in celelalte sesiuni desfasurate am putut degusta celebrele vinuri de la GAJA, vinuri de referinta din Franta – Bordeaux ani vechi si noi, Italia, Spania si Lumea Noua care se bucura in fiecare de an de aprecieri si punctaje foarte mari acordate de criticii importanti de vin.

Joi seara a fost dedicata in principal vinurilor vechi din Champagne. Cu siguranta unul dintre cele mai rare momente la care am participat si care aseaza cu usurinta Bucurestiul pe harta internationala a experientelor oenologice de exceptie: o degustare verticala de Dom Perignon cu varste de aproximativ 50 de ani. Lista vinurilor a fost: Dom Perignon 1962, 1964, 1966 si 1999, urmate de Dom Perignon Rose 2000.

Seara a fost deschisa cu o Champagne realizata 100% din Pinot Meunier, un strugure care in general se regaseste in procente minore in vinurile spumante ce provin din aceasta regiune. Producatorul este unul apreciat de cunoscatorii acestei regiuni: Egly-Ouriet. Vinul a fost o companie foarte buna pentru platoul de stridii proaspat aduse din Franta.

Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny Premier Cru a stat 40 de luni pe drojdii inainte de a fi degorjat in 2011. Culoarea este galben intens, iar efervescenta buna. Aromele sunt intense si bine conturate, se regasesc citrice, condimente si note de caise verzi, iar in gura senzatia este de amplitudine, robustete si bogatie. Nu are senzualitatea unui Blanc de Blancs, dar compenseaza foarte bine prin celelalte atribute. Finalul este mediu, proaspat si citric. (90/100)

Dupa ce am pregatit papilele cu prima Champagne, a inceput seria vinurilor mult asteptate. Sticlele au fost deschise cu 45-60 minute inainte, dopurile au fost scoase intregi fara nici o problema. Aparenta tuturor celor 3 vinuri vechi  – 1962, 1964, 1966 – este foarte similara: un chihlimbar deschis ce bate inspre portocaliu, curat, cu limpiditate foarte buna, fara a mai avea insa efervescenta.

Dom Perignon Vintage 1962 provine dintr-un an cu iarna lunga, primavara a adus furtuni si piatra in regiune, vara a fost racoroasa, fapt ce a intarziat inflorirea vitelor de vie. Vremea frumoasa din Septembrie a ajutat, iar recolatarea a inceput in 4 Octombrie.

Vinul prezinta urme de oxidare la nas imediat dupa deschidere, inducand o anumita anxietate in randul participantilor la degustare ca avem o prima sticla defecta. Gustul in schimb readuce speranta. La nivelul nasului avem aromele unui vin alb vechi foarte similar cu vinul de Sherry: samburi amarui de fructe, fulgi de migdale, mar usor oxidat, dar si o nota usor dulceaga, iar lipsa fructului ii scade din prestanta. In gust vinul este sec, dar prezinta inca arome placute de citrice uscate si nuci, castigand chiar in profunzime cu aerarea. Finalul este mediu spre lung, cu note de migdale. (87-88/100)

Dom Perignon Vintage 1964 provine dintr-un an foarte bun, cu vara uscata si torida, recoltarea incepand pe 16 Septembrie. Vehiculat la inceput ca vinul seriei, sticla ne contrazice expectantele.

Vinul prezinta un caracter oxidativ – cel mai pronuntat intre cele trei – iar gustul nu salveaza din pacate situatia. Exista arome de migdale si sherry, iar gustul este monolitic si lipsit de focuri de artificii. Finalul este scurt spre mediu. (85/100)

Dom Perignon Vintage 1966 provine dintr-un an ce a produs struguri perfect copti si sanatosi, recoltarea incepad pe 22 Septembrie. Vinul este cel mai interesant dintre cele trei. La nivelul nasului este  intens si complex, iar aromele pregnante creaza senzatia ca in pahar avem cea mai gustoasa si mai rafinata crema de zahar ars cu vanilie de cea mai buna calitate si caramel. Mirosul este seducator si complet neasteptat. In gust vinul are amplitudine, este usor afumat, cu note de caise uscate si turta dulce, si o rotunjime care-l face usor de placut, si final lung. Cel mai reusit vin al seriei de Champagne foarte vechi. (89-90/100)

Dom Perignon Vintage 1999 vine in forta si ne readuce inapoi la realitate cu profilul sau puternic fructat. Vinul  are o culoare galben pai deschis, cu efervescenta intensa. La nivel olfactiv s-a conturat un profil ce aminteste de un Riesling sec vechi din Alsacia. Arome de petrol, piersici si caise verzi, citrice si o nota de afumat. In gust suntem inapoi pe taramul vinurilor spumante: aciditatea ii confera tensiune asemeni unui curent, iar notele citrice si usor minerale ii dau amplitudine pe palatin. Finalul este mediu spre lung, proaspat si revigorant. Mi se pare perfecta de baut acum desi are in continuare potential de pastrare. (92/100)

Dom Perignon Rose Vintage 2000 are culoarea roz somon ce bate inspre cupru si efervescenta intensa. Nasul este foarte bine conturat, complex si intens. Aromele de fructe rosii mici, alterneaza cu cele florale, cu cele de coaja de portocala confiata si arome minerale de fum. Un nas superb si complex. In gust structura este magistrala, are consistenta, rotunjime, fiind deopotriva ampla si precisa. Finalul este lung, proaspat, citric si fructat. O Champagne care poate oferi satisfactii si mai mari in timp. (94-95/100)

Dupa aceasta serie spectaculoasa de vinuri din Champagne am putut degusta 4 vinuri rosii din Rioja: Sela 2010, Roda Reserva 2008, Roda I Reserva 2007 si Cirsion 2009. Din pacate vinurile rosii nu au avut impactul pe care-l merita dupa seria de Champagne.

Cele care mi-au captat atentia in mod deosebit au fost Roda I Reserva 2007 si Cirsion 2009 – prin prospetimea data de aromele de ace de pin si robustetea simtita in gust. Despre vinurile rosii intr-un articol diferit.

The wine club @ La Brasserie: June 24th session

There was another session of the Wine Club started a couple of months ago by Emil from La Brasserie and me. Our aim has and will be to sample some of the most interesting and exciting wines from all over the world. The thematic for this session was mainly red Bordeaux, but there was also an intruder served blind after the 1999 Margaux.

2003 Chateau Cap de Mourlin St-Emilion

Garnet, dark red color. Developed and evolved nose, really over ripe profile, intense aromas of stewed dark cherry, prunes, Mon Cherry candy – almost like an Amarone, dark chocolate, cocoa, leather and mildly minty. There is also a toasty aroma. Fully integrated tannins, supple Merlot based blend, balanced, stewed red fruit and cocoa on the palate. Medium finish and at its peak. An enjoyable wine that can go well with food. (87/100)

2005 Chateau Gruaud Larose St Julien

Very dark, red garnet color. A well developed and intense nose that shows clear class above the first St-Emilion tasted. Very different than the 2006 Gruaud Larose I had in December and over an year ago. I prefer more this 2005. Well developed and youthful nose, complex, showing freshness and beautifully alternating between gamey, blood beef, smoky and pencil shavings aromas to sweet and fresh red fruit, black tea and green coffee bean. Full bodied, it has a very healthy ripe tannins backbone that will ensure a long life ahead, but always staying on the elegant path. There is enough substance to please any fan of Bordeaux and to allow a good evolution, but this is not a powerful wine. It surprises how smooth it feels on the palate for a 2005. Generous flavors of black tea, mocha, black currant and graphite coat the palate. Long and fresh finish, with grippy tannins in the aftertaste. 13% alc (92/100)

2002 Chateau Pontet Canet Pauillac

Coming from an average and rainy vintage, this is a real success story.

Red garnet color with no signs of aging. Expressive, complex and youthful nose, admirable balance between smoky, minerals, graphite aromas, intense primary aromas: black currant and cassis, and secondary: tobacco, green bean coffee, tea leaves, with an enjoyable flamboyance of fruit. Full bodied and well structured, refreshing, fully ripe and sweet tannins, with generous flavors of cassis and black tea leaves on the palate. This combines power and elegance, already showing a smooth character with rounded tannins. Long finish, fruity, with additional coffee and black tea mild bitterness. This shows extract and richness, and does not have anything of the diluted character seen in other 2002 Bordeaux. 13% alc (93/100)

1999 Chateau Margaux

The wine of the night for me and for most of the attendants.

Dark garnet color. Profound, well developed, youthful and maturing nose that smells and tastes differently with every sip. Complex and deeply aromatic profile, with aromas shifting from sweet ripe fruit, red and black currant, cassis, plums, to smoky minerals and even a hint of brett. The richness of its flavors and the depth on the palate is unmatched by any of the previous wines. Fully ripe and healthy tannins, smooth and velvety, but yet firm and assertive, always elegant and aristocratic, everything seems to be in the right place for this wine. Intense fruit, velvety texture, layered on the palate, with complex smoky and mineral flavors. Long finish, really fresh and very convincing. This seems to be in a perfect drinking period where it could stay for another few decades. 12.5% alc (95/100)

The blind tasted wine was a challenge launched by Emil to all of us. Initially presented as a 2007 Romanian Cabernet Sauvignon it did not convince anybody to be a Cabernet.

2007 GAJA Conteisa

After the 1999 Margaux any wine faces a great challenge to convince and impress. Yet this wine managed to do it.

Saturated ruby red color. Deep, complex and expressive already on the nose, it immediately seduces with its minty, pine needle freshness, dried rose petals, tar and additional layers of sweet red fruit, undergrowth and spice. Full bodied, perfectly ripe, round and sweet tannins, supple, intense and rich flavors on the palate mirroring the nose, with perhaps a deeper and fuller aromatic profile. Its amazing how balanced it feels. Elegant and feminine wine in spite of its mountain of tannins. Long finish, fresh and complex. 14.5% (94/100)

What a night.

Davino Flamboyant – o verticala romaneasca de exceptie

Aseara am participat la o degustare pe care o pot inscrie fara nici o ezitare in categoria “Top wine tastings of 2012” daca m-as gandi sa fac un bilant al acestui an. La fel ca si anul trecut (se pare ca este o traditie deja) evenimentul a fost organizat de Vinexpert impreuna cu Davino si gazduit de Wine bar-ul lor din Dorobanti. Asa cum s-a afirmat in deschiderea evenimentului, Vinexpert urmareste sa organizeze o degustare speciala ca ultim eveniment de sfarsit de an. Anul trecut aceeasi ocazie a reprezentat o verticala de 6 ani diferiti de Domaine Ceptura Rouge de la Davino. Anul acesta au fost mai putine vinuri, dar si mai spectaculoase.

Evenimentul si vinurile au fost prezentate de insusi proprietarul cramei, dl Dan Balaban, care a explicat foarte detaliat conditiile de recolta ale fiecarui an, schimbarile pe care le-a intreprins crama in evolutia vinului de la an la an, s-au comentat vinurile si s-a raspuns la intrebarile din public.

Primul vin degustat este rezultatul unui “accident”, in sensul ca la o recenta verificare a stocurilor a fost descoperit un palet de sticle de Merlot vinificat special si uitat intr-un colt al cramei. Conform domnului Balaban, Davino produce pentru clienti speciali la cerere vinuri din soiuri pure de struguri. Este cazul si acestui Davino Merlot (Rezerva) 2007 care a fost oferit si va fi gasit in exclusivitate in reteaua magazinelor Vinexpert la pretul de 111 Ron.

Desi servit putin prea cald fata de temperatura optima, Davino Merlot (Rezerva) 2007 prezinta un nas evoluat, complex, cu arome de fructe rosii confiate, gem, prune uscate, fum, eucalipt. Un vin extractiv, structurat, cu note de cafea, tanin usor astringent, arome de gem de cirese negre amarui in finalul mediu spre lung. Servit la temperatura ideala va surprinde prin complexitatea sa. 13.2% alc (90/100)

Flamboyant-ul reprezinta vinul rosu de top al acestui producator, realizat doar in anii cei mai buni. Se folosesc cele mai bune parcele de Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot si Feteasca Neagra, este maturat pana la 10 luni in stejar pur romanesc din diferite zone ale tarii, macerare indelungata pe pielitele strugurilor (in jur de 28 de zile), rezultatul fiind o capacitate foarte buna de invechire dar si faptul ca vinurile au nevoie de o perioada mai indelungata de timp pentru a se deschide.

Davino are in plan constructia unei noi crame in Ceptura care va oferi posibilitatea pe viitor a unei maturari mai indelungate a vinurilor. Deja acest proces de prelungire a maturarii in butoaie de stejar a fost inceput in 2006 prin aparitia noilor vinuri Rezerva rosu produs pana acum in 2006, 2007 si 2009.

Verticala de Flamboyant a inclus vinurile din 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009 si in premiera 2010 care va fi lansat cel mai probabil pana in Paste anul viitor. Flamboyant a fost realizat pentru prima oara in 2002 (ca experiment) intr-un lot de doar 600 de sticle care nu a fost comercializat. In 2004, 2005 si 2008 nu a fost produs.

Flamboyant 2003

Nas evoluat, in proces de maturare, arome de fructe rosii si negre, confiate, prune, o nota de bacon,  fresh, ia timp sa se deschida, complex si profund. Corpolent, rotund, carnos, puternic dar in acelasi timp cizelat, arome de gem de fructe rosii, visine, tanin polisat, dulce si copt, se deschide in etape si surprinde la fiecare inghititura. Expresie foarte profunda de fruct rosu cu puritate a aromelor, condiment si visina in diverse stadii: coapta, gem, putreda. Prezinta un adevarat caleidoscop de arome si te incita sa-l descoperi. Final lung, polisat, cu tanin dulce pe gingii. Este recomandata deschiderea lui cu 24 de ore inainte de a fi consumat pentru a oferi expresia maxima. Vinul prezinta o tinerete de invidiat si prezinta un potential de pastrare de cel putin inca 10 ani. In momentul in care s-a degustat acest vin s-a facut liniste completa in sala.  (92-93/100)

Flamboyant 2006

Nas evoluat, cu semne de maturitate, aminteste izbitor de buchetul unui Bordeaux vechi  de calitate (1995-1996) care a evoluat frumos la sticla; iodat, deschis, complex, cu arome de cedru si busuioc, fruct rosu perfect copt, spice, fresh, pruna uscata, deosebit de expresiv. Stil clasic Bordeaux, extractiv, cu prospetime remarcabila, scortisoara, visina putreda, cedru, structurat, viu, cu mineralitate ce confera prospetime texturii, final lung, spicy, proaspat, tanin ferm. Un vin elegant si expresiv, feminin si in antiteza completa daca-l comparam cu 2003-ul. O evolutie foarte buna care m-a facut sa-l plasez (ca preferinta proprie) in fruntea degustarii din aceasta seara datorita accesibilitatii sale. (92/100)

Flamboyant 2007

Nas evoluat, nu la fel de complex ca cele dinainte, mentolat cu arome de busuioc uscat, piele, spice mai pronuntat, mai putina Feteasca Neagra in cupaj ca in alti ani dar componenta condimentata specifica FN iese mai pregnant in evidenta datorita anului cald si coacerii depline; arome de fructe rosii coapte, confiate, gem, visina si o usoara adiere de violete. Structurat, cu tanin viu, dulce si ferm, cafea, un vin plin, ceva mai astringent, mai inchis pe palatin. Final lung, proaspat, tanin care-si manifesta prezenta din plin si gem de fruct rosu. Vinul are nevoie de mai mult timp pentru a capata expresivitatea unui 2006. (90/100)

Flamboyant 2009

Vinul e la fel de interesant ca acum o saptamana cand l-am degustat direct la crama. Nas fin, piper verde, tutun, piele, extract puternic, structurat, echilibrat, taninuri masive si ferme, putin uscate, dulceata de visine si cirese negre, piper verde, aciditate proaspata, final lung, ferm in postgust, cu tanin dulce pe gingii. Vin cu rezerve de arome care va avea o evolutie probabil mult mai spectaculoasa decat 2003-ul de azi. Din nou as recomanda achizitia de 2009 si pastrarea lui pentru ca in 10 ani vinul va fi si mai spectaculos. (92-93/100)

Flamboyant 2010

Nas bine evoluat pentru un vin atat de tanar, cu arome de stejar extrem de bine lucrate, intens, concentrat, arome de piele, trufe, visina coapta, carne de vita cruda, gust plin, structurat, masiv, iti da senzatia ca musti din el, fruct copt-gem pe palatin, final lung, tanin prezent usor uscat dar lasa dulceata pe gingii. Un vin tanar, intens, extractiv, final lung, structura tanica masiva dar taninurile sunt coapte si dulci. Granulatie fina a texturii cu senzatie de pudra fina de cacao. Recunosc ca mi-e foarte greu sa acord un rating acestui vin, dar trebuie specificat ca are toate atributele pentru a depasi bariera superioara de 90/100 si urca mult peste: complexitate, profunzime, structura, final lung.

O degustare eveniment care a incheiat in forta seria de evenimente marca Vinexpert.

A memorable tasting with a very special Wine Club

Last night I was invited, as a guest, to attend a wine dinner organized by a special Wine Club that will remain undisclosed at this moment. The session was dedicated to Italian wines. I had no idea what will be served, but the surprise was overwhelming. The dinner took place in a prime restaurant and the food was fantastic: veal carapaccio, spaghetti pomodoro basilico, grilled Black Angus entrecote and a very special dessert: truffle, white chocolate and truffle ice cream served with a very special wine: Chateau d’Yquem 1981.

We were six people so there was plenty of wine to taste and drink for each of us. We started with a very young Barbaresco.

2007 La Spinetta Barbaresco Vigneto Bordini

This is an extremely young wine but it is so approachable. Dark red garnet color. A youthful and developing nose, intense, refined, showing beautiful aromas of flowers: dried rose petals and violets, tar, ripe black cherry and raspberry, cocoa, with hints of spices: anise and cloves. This is super concentrated on the palate, balanced and well structured, bone dry tannins and as much as a Barbaresco is known to be hard to enjoy when young, this wine drinks very well already. Long finish, with a velvety feel. Youthful but so good. (91-92/100)

One of the participants at the dinner used to work for about 7 years in Toscana at Poggio di Sotto during the summer vacation, so not only did he make a contribution with the next wine, but he also explained the story of this interesting winery. Poggio di Sotto is fairly small in Montalcino with only 12 ha of vines, making around 30.000 bottles of Brunello and Rosso din Montalcino every year. The wine-making process is traditional, with long maceration, extensive maturation in large 30 hl Slavonian oak barrels – for each wine there is an additional one year of aging in the barrel aside from the minimum imposed by the Regulators. Poggio di Sotto was recently sold to a large Italian wine company that has properties all over Italy, but wanted to own a premium, cult-like winery.

2005 Poggio di Sotto Brunello di Montalcino

Medium red garnet color. Complex, deep, profound, refined, showing fine spices, cocoa powder, leather, red fruits preserves and a citrus fruit freshness on the nose. Silky mouth-feel, amazing structure and balance, ripe tannins, extremely fresh with a feather like texture, long finish, fresh all along the way. Exquisite, long black cherry aftertaste. So young but so open and such a pleasure to drink it. (93-94/100)

Next wine comes from a legendary traditional producer. I guess anybody that inquired at a certain moment about Brunello di Montalcino knows this producer as being a pioneer of quality driven wines.

1971 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino

Good fill level. The bottle was uncorked and left to slowly breath for about 3 hours. Red ruby color with a brick rim, a bit cloudy as it comes in contact with air. A maturing bouquet, with initial volatile acids that blew off after another 20 minutes in the glass, still showing discreet red fruit preserves, autumn forest floor, tobacco, balsamic notes, saline, leather and black olives. Medium bodied, initially looking like fading away but with more aeration in the glass opening up more and more. Mature, fresh, mint and black olives on the palate, acidity keeps everything in place and, as it aerates, it shows discreet tannins. Medium finish, fresh and earthy. (88-89/100)

After this line up of amazing wines I found out that dessert will be paired with 1981 Chateau d’Yquem. Life can be full of good surprises sometimes.

1981 Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes

This came from a small 0.375 cl bottle and was open for more than 8 hours but that did not alter the quality of this amazing wine. Deep gold-amber color. A complex bouquet, very intense, combining aromas of mandarins, botrytis, apricots, white pepper and brown sugar. Medium bodied, it has a wonderful balance, elegant, delicious flavors of dried apricots and sweet lemons and amazingly lively on the palate. Long spicy-cardamon finish, with pleasant bitter-sweet orange peel flavor. (93-94/100)

It was a wonderful wine dinner.

2007 Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc Pessac-Leognan

I had this wine several times in the past couple of years and I loved it from the beginning. There are signs of evolution on the 2007, at least from the color perspective compared to one year ago, but otherwise the wine continues to be really good. There was no planning to open this bottle, especially not on a MON evening but, as I bought some fresh fish from a person that brings it straight from Greece, I had to pair the prime quality fish with a good wine. It’s a pity to serve good food with mediocre wines.

The fish selected for dinner was a wild Dorado (about 1 kilo) slowly cooked in the oven for about 1 h. I just used some slices of lemon, olive oil and salt as this type of fish doesn’t require anything else for preparation. It is very tasty on its own. I did add some cherry tomatoes spiced up with thyme towards the end of cooking just to have some side dish: the fish is rather sweet while the baked cherry tomatoes make a good contrast being juicy and bringing a higher acidity to the dish. For two persons it was more than enough. With the wine it was a bliss.

2007 Chateau Carbonnieux Blanc Pessac-Leognan

Color is yellow gold, a bit darker than one year ago. The nose is really intense and exuberant, very exotic, combining tropical fruits, peaches, tangerines and oranges, with a nice touch of smoke and vanilla. Full bodied, lively, rich on the palate, maintaining the same exuberance it shows on the nose, with a long spicy tropical fruit and fresh finish. The mix of tropical fruits and smoke is fantastic, and the wine is so fresh in the mouth. I love this Blanc from Chateau Carbonnieux, and from what I tasted so far (2007 and 2008) the quality is consistent. Depending how you like your whites (younger or with some more age), at 5 years old this wine drinks very well. (91-92/100)

Chateau Giscours 2007 Margaux

2007 was not a generous vintage for red wines in Bordeaux, it was certainly much better for the whites. Usually, the 2007 reds had unripe fruit, with herbaceous aromas, are rather thin on the palate, but the good part is that many are ready to drink already. There are certainly exceptions, but generally speaking that is the mark of the vintage.

Chateau Giscours 2007 Margaux

Dark red garnet color. There is a good intensity of aromas, a very nice and developed nose, with great typicality. There are exuberant aromas of smoky oak, black cherry, graphite, coffee and plenty of green vegetables: green bell peppers, asparagus and cut hay. Medium to full body on the palate, medium acidity, with friendly tannins, rather mellow considering its age, but well structured. Similar flavors on the palate, however the wine shows some lack of substance on the mid palate. Medium finish, a bit bitter, showing a mild presence of tannins in the aftertaste. The wine shows a good openness already and it drinks very well. The greenness is quite pronounced so I would suspect that this is the mark of the 2007 vintage. It is pleasant to drink as it is but I am not sure how much it will improve in time. There is no problem holding it for at least another 5 possible 8 years, but this is after all a vintage for short time enjoyment. (89-90/100)

I guess the problem with 2007 is that the quality is lower than the 2006 but the prices were a bit higher. So in many cases 2001 and 2004 can be better value for money, as the prices were much lower before the 2005 vintage. Consider your options and choose wisely.

2007 Domaine de Ravanes Les Gravieres du Taurou

Blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Petit Verdot aged for 18-24 months in new French oak barrels. A rather unusual blend of grapes for this part of France (Languedoc) where Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsault reign. Labelled as Vin de Pays des Coteaux de Murviel.

2007 Domaine de Ravanes Les Gravieres du Taurou

Opaque, dark red-purple color. Developing nose and very youthful, with intense aromas of stewed dark fruits, blackberry liqueur, cocoa powder, toasty oak and plenty of spices. Full bodied, dense and extracted, with plenty of assertive tannins showing a firm grip in the mouth, it feels very closed on the palate. Medium plus spicy finish and not too expressive for the moment. It needs more time to open up but it has potential. 14.5% alc (89/100)

2007 SERVE Cuvee Alexandru

This wine is not available on the market yet. We (I) all hope that one day (this year) it will be. I appreciate the company’s strategy to hold on to this wine until it gives the maximum pleasure. The same strategy is, sadly, used by only a handful of producers for some selected wines; in my opinion this shows that these producers value their clients as the winery takes some risks by sitting on a stock of wines for a few years without cashing out immediately.

I attended a few weeks ago a tasting of a couple of Corsican wines that will be introduced to the Romanian market by SERVE and during this tasting Mr Aurel Rotarescu, Serve’s winemaker, shared his thoughts with me (I actually pushed the question and he kindly answered it) about Cuvee Alexandru: in his opinion this wine is ready to be enjoyed. After tasting the wine this week, I can only agree with him. It seems that their guys in Marketing and Sales are not yet convinced about that.

This is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon coming from low yields of only 25 hl/ha from 30 years old vines from a special parcel that unfortunately does not exist anymore. The 30 years old vines gave their fruit in 2007 and then the parcel was replanted with new vines.

Last time I tasted this wine was at the end of 2010. Back then, the wine had a charming nose, already developed, but it felt a bit thin on the palate. The aromatics on the nose were more complex than the 2007 Cuvee Charlotte, but Charlotte was more extractive and felt more compelling in the mouth.

2007 SERVE Cuvee Alexandru

Dark red garnet color. The nose is well developed, complex and already very expressive. It start initially with rich, primary aromas of sweet dark cherry, black currant and dry plums, but as it aerates, the wine gains more depth with aromas of roasted red bell pepper, leather, cedar, cinnamon and cloves, with a touch of cocoa powder. It shows more density than it did in 2010, it gained more muscle and rounded, becoming a really intense, extractive and interesting wine. Fully ripe and sweet tannins, well structured and balanced in spite of its 14.5% alc, the wine is fleshy, lush and coats the palate like a velvet glove. Intense aromas in the mouth and a compelling long finish. This is a very nice wine that can age well. (92+/100)

*Disclosure: just like the rest of my wine blogging colleagues, I received this bottle as a Christmas gift from SERVE.

Impressive vertical of Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape: 2004 – 2007

I attended a friend’s birthday party last night, also a passionate wine lover, and I was fortunate to taste an impressive line-up of wines from a producer  I absolutely love. Domaine du Pegau maintains a classic style of wine-making, the wines not only age superbly, but they have a certain freshness and very good ability to drink, unlike the more modern, fat and heady Chateauneuf’s.

I already tasted a couple of times the 2004 Cuvee Reservee of Domaine du Pegau and always found it just a fabulous wine. Last night’s vertical consisted of 4 different vintages: 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007. All four vintages were different in Chateauneuf du pape and the wines perfectly reflect those characteristics.

– 2004 was a bit cooler and produced more mineral wines with great freshness;

– 2005 was superb – just as in the rest of France, the wines have structure and will age long;

– 2006 a good vintage, but shadowed by the quality of 2005;

– 2007 a superb vintage in Chateauneuf du pape and generally the Rhone valley – unlike the rest of France, producing wines with perfectly ripe tannins, hedonistic fruit and amazing accessibility already.

After tasting the four wines, I can make the following remarks:

– 2004 and 2005 have the most similarities: fine grained tannins, great freshness and a touch more mineral character.

– both 2006 and 2007 have assertive and more pronounced tannins, bigger and riper fruit, while the texture shows more concentration on the palate.

My absolute favorite was 2004 followed by 2007, 2005 and 2006 in this order.

2004 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape

Saturated red ruby color. Superb nose, well developed, intense and very expressive, combining fresh red fruits with game, meat, graphite and spices. Full bodied, with a killer acidity, this wine has the minerality and the character of a Northern Rhone Syrah (reminded me of 2006 Thierry Allemand Reynard Cornas: odd but lovely !), savoury, long and really delicious. Long finish, with great freshness and some lovely thyme and sage flavors. This is fully accessible now and just a pleasure to drink. Will continue to age well also. 14% alc. (94+/100)

2005 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape

This wine was uncorked early in the morning, then re-corked and placed in the fridge for a slow oxygenation until 18:30 when we drank it. Even in these conditions, the wine still seems to hide more secrets.

Same saturated ruby red color. Well developed and intense nose, but not having the same palette of aromatics as 2004. It shows great fresh red fruit, spices and probably less meaty, but still resembles the 2004. Full bodied, with fine grained tannins and more structured in the mouth, the wine combines red berry fruits, spices, thyme, a touch of graphite and licorice with a lively acidity and welcoming freshness. Long finish, but not as convincing as 2004. 14% alc. (92-93/100)

2006 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape

Darker red color. It is the only wine that shows very ripe, almost prunes like aromas. This can be a bit tiring compared to the other wines. Rich, very ripe fruit, licorice, prunes and spicy aromas on the nose. Full bodied, it seems more concentrated and very spicy on the palate compared to ’04 and ’05, assertive and bigger tannins in the mouth, and a medium plus long spicy finish. A bigger wine, even though the alcohol stays at the same 14%. (91-92/100)

2007 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape

Dark red-ruby color. Well developed and expressive nose, it exhibits a beautiful definition of red fruit. Spices, chocolate, herbs and licorice gradually build on the nose . Full bodied, assertive, ripe and sweet tannins, balanced, combining freshness and concentration, this wine shows vibrant fruit, savoury spices and a lush palate. Long, racy and spicy finish. Up to an extent, this is 2004 packed with more fruit and more muscle. Still a baby but it will develop very well in time. 14% alc. (94-95/100)

It was certainly a compelling tasting experience from a producer that continues to make stunning, classical Chateauneuf du pape wines. Bring me more please.