I had a new lovely dinner at Joseph last MON May 18 with an intimate group of friends. It was planned in advance so we had an initial list of 3 wines and a food tasting menu to go with it. As before, that initial list of 3 wines got up to 5 by the end. Food was top again here.
Food tasting menu was: Calamari a la plancha, Semi-row salmon sashimi, Lentil risotto with red wild shrimps, French veal chops and Chocolate bar. The wines were upscale so expectation were naturally high and in my opinion they fully delivered, or at least most of them.
2013 Aile d’Argent produced by Chateau Mouton Rothschild is made from a small parcel of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle planted in 1980, it is fermented in 100% new oak barrels and half of it matures in the same barrels for some months. In a few words this wine is the epitome of class and opulence, just like its producer. The nose is an intense and complex kaleidoscope of aromas of mango, peach, smoke, vanilla bar and citrus essence. Opulent and almost luscious palate, but there is enough vibrant acidity to energize the thick and oily texture and enhance the tropical fruits, vanilla and citrus flavors. Long and vibrant finish, where mango and tangerine flavors are lingering. I just love this wine. (94-95/100)
Aile d’Argent was meant to pair with both first two courses but it quickly evaporated from the bottle by the end of the first course.
2010 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru made by Domaine de Lambrays is on a similar line with the 2012 I had at the same location on April 28: a very high quality Pinot Noir, however the two vintages are well reflected into the wines. While 2012 is already open and expressive on the palate, 2010 is more intense and needs to be left alone in the bottle for a few more years. Color is a medium ruby red. The nose already shows high class and it is developing into pure and clean aromas of strawberries, red cherries, fresh green tea leaves, potpourri and chocolate. On the palate the wine is more closed than the 2012, but there is so much structure and intensity in it that points to a long aging potential. I believe in 10 years this will be a masterpiece. (95/100)
Not necessarily the ideal pairing with Lentil risotto. I believe the wine needs a more neutral pairing.
2007 Domaine de la Janasse ‘Cuvee Chaupin’ Chateauneuf du pape was open 2 h in advance and decanted for 1 h. This is a show off wine. No wonder some of the participants of our intimate gathering preferred it. The color is deep red garnet and opaque. It has the aromatic profile of an Amarone, even the 15.5% alcohol puts it in the same league. The nose is very intense and ripe. The aromas of black sour cherries, rum, chocolate, Provencal herbs and licorice are strong. Opulent and lush palate, richly textured and concentrated, tannins are smooth. The finish is long but the wine is missing freshness to balance all this dense and thick texture. (93-94/100)
2002 Burge Family G3 is a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blend from Australia. It has the same 15.5% alcohol but there is freshness. It is the second time I am having this in the last 4-5 months and it continues to impress me. It is one of the most interesting Australian wines I tasted and I would put it in the country’s best league. Very dense, highly textured, similar to an Amarone but so different and so fresh compared to ‘Cuvee Chaupin’ 2007. It combines sweet red and black fruits with chocolate, leather, game and spices. A wine that entered its plateau of maturity, but really no rush to consume it. It has at least another 5-8 years ahead. (94/100)
Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV was the wine to close the night. Its clean citrus fruit and green apple acidity cleansed the palate after such a delightful 4 h dinner.
In incinta magazinului Real din Suceava au avut loc consecutiv evenimentele Totul pentru gust, joi 23 Aprilie, de la ora 17.30 si Wine Club, vineri 24 Aprilie de la ora 17.30, ambele in parteneriat cu Lozano.
Participantii, au fost in numar de 36 pentru sesiunea de joi ‘Totul pentru gust’, iar Vineri, 20 de participanti, in cadrul carora au fost indemnati sa experimenteze cum sa combine vinul si preparatele culinare. Partenerul acestui eveniment desfasurat in 2 zile diferite – Lozano, a prezentat vinuri bulgaresti de la crama Katarzyna si de la Castra Rubra.
Lista vinurilor servite si asocierea cu mancare pentru evenimentul de joi ‘Totul pentru gust‘ au fost:
– Le Rose 2013 (Malbec 50%, Syrah 25%, Cabernet Franc 25%) pentru intampinare.
– MEZZEK 2013 (Chardonnay) alaturi de file de dorada la cuptor cu un sos de unt si migdale.
– Motley Cock 2009 (Mavrid, Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot) alaturi de coaste de porc in sos de BBQ.
– Castra Rubra 2008 (Merlot, Cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Franc) alaturi de risotto cu funghi porcini.
– Halla 2013 (Merlot baricat 9 luni) alaturi de ficat de vitel cu ceapa si mamaliga.
Lista vinurilor servite si asocierea cu mancare pentru evenimentul ‘Wine Club’ de vineri au fost:
– Le Rose 2013 (Malbec 50%, Syrah 25%, Cabernet Franc 25%) pentru intampinare.
– Motley Cock 2013 (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc & Viognier) alaturi de file de somon la gratar, asortat cu legume la cuptor cu sos de unt si lamaie.
– Twins Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 alaturi de muschi de porc cu rozmarin la cuptor cu cartofi noi prajiti
– ButterFly’s Rock 2010 (Merlot, Cab Sauvignon , Cabernet franc, Syrah; baricat 6 luni) alaturi de risotto cu funghi porcini
– Encore Katarzyna 2012 (Syrah baricat 10 luni) alaturi de cotlet de vitel la grill cu vinete la cuptor cu parmezan
Promovarea evenimentului “Totul pentru gust” s-a realizat local prin intermediul TV Bucovina, cu emisiune si spot inainte si dupa eveniment, Radio VIVA, cu emisiune si reportaj, Spot Radio Impact si Facebook, precum si in cadrul magazinului.
Urmatorele evenimente se vor desfasura in acest weekend in magazinul Real Oradea, vineri 15 Mai de la 18:00: ‘Wine Club’, si sambata 16 Mai, de la ora 12:00: ‘Totul pentru gust’ in parteneriat cu Crama Girboiu. Cei interesati sa participe la evenimentul ‘Totul pentru gust’ de sambata 16 Mai cu incepere de la ora 12:00 se pot inscrie gratuit (in limita a maxim 20 de locuri disponibile) pe linkul de mai jos:
Last TUE evening on May 5th I attended a special dinner at Le Bistrot Francais near Ateneu organized for 10 people that included some fancy wines paired with a tasting food menu. Each wine was matched with a dish meant to enhance the overall culinary experience.
The tasting food menu was: Cinco Jotas Jamon Iberico de Bellota 36 months aged, Special Oysters Daniel Sorlut No1 and La Perle Blanche No 3, Fish carpaccio, lime flakes, crispy chickpeas sticks with rosemary, Braised sea bass, mashed potatoes with olive oil, truffles sauce, “Crispy-fondant” pork belly, ravigote sauce, crispy vegetables, potatoes puree, Wagyu entrecote, potatoes puree à la Joël Robuchon, Exotic fruits, coconut sorbet, meringue, Dried plums ice cream with Armagnac.
The food was again top as my last visit here, my favorites were the Special Oysters Daniel Sorlut No1, Braised sea bass, mashed potatoes with olive oil, truffles sauce and “Crispy-fondant” pork belly, ravigote sauce, crispy vegetables, potatoes puree.
Champagne Duval-Leroy Authentis Cumieres Brut 2003 is made from 100% Pinot Noir de Cumieres (Premier Cru), organically grown grapes and aged in fut de chene. The color is a light amber so there is a clear oxidative character to this wine that hits you the moment you smell the glass: quite intense aromas of apple cider, caramel-toffee, nuts, brioche and dry citrus fruits. There is intensity and tension on the palate but the 2003 hot vintage shows its mark by a lower acidity. Quite an opulent style and this is an acquired taste Champagne that divides opinions. For me a bit too oxidative. (88/100)
Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2009 was served next to oysters and its intense smoky nose seemed to be a good choice. The color is deep gold. Very intense and opulent nose as the palate, with strong aromas of smoked vanilla, tropical fruits and peach, vibrant fruit on the palate but again it feels the medium to low acidity starts to lose the balance with the lush sweet fruit. Long finish, elegant and complex wine. (93-94/100)
2009 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Clos de la Garenne” was a refreshing Chardonnay, its aromas jump from the glass. An initial flinty character gradually leaves room for aromas of fresh citrus, apricots and wet stones. There is intensity on the palate, with lively citrus fruit and flint and overall great freshness. Long finish. (93/100) Pairing with fish carpaccio was a happy choice.
Domaine Abbatucci Cuvée du Général Jean Charles Abbatucci 2012 from Corse is a blend of 6 grapes: 25% Carcajolu Biancu, 25% Paga Debbiti, 20% Riminese, 15% Rossola Brandica, 10% Biancone, 5% Vermentinu, aged in 600 L demi-muids and is labelled as Vin de Table. Quite a pricey Vin de Table as it averages around 100 Eur. The color is medium yellow gold. The first nose when the wine was the coldest reminds of a German Grosses Gewachs Riesling due to its petrol-kerosene nose. However, when the wine warms up in the glass it gets a Southern France – Chateauneuf du pape blanc profile, with intense dry yellow fruits, dry apricots and Asian spices: turmeric aroma is really strong. The palate is rich and heady, the same dry fruits are sustained by medium acidity and as it getter warmer starts to lose a bit of balance. A heady and opulent white wine. (90/100)
Chateau La Grande Clotte 2002 made by Michel Rolland was not on the initial wine list and was a spontaneous offer from the host. The color is amber and the wine shows strong signs of being too old. The same apple cider aroma as the Champagne but more intense and overwhelming. There is bright acidity on the palate but you have to be generous to enjoy it now. Probably a strong cheese pairing as was suggested at the table would put this wine on a better spot.
Pork would probably not be my first choice to pair with a Pinot Noir but tonight’s pairing was a brilliant unexpected surprise. Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru ‘Cuvee Madeleine Collignon’ from Joseph Drouhin has a medium ruby red color. It has a refreshing, elegant and complex nose that includes fresh raspberries, red cherries, sous-bois and potpourri in its aromatic profile. Medium to full body, with sappy tannins and a savoury sweet and bright cherry fruit on the palate, and a medium to long fresh finish that leaves a flavorful black tea aftertaste. (92-93/100)
Another spontaneous offer from the host. Made by Michel Rolland and named after his niece from one of his properties in Argentina in a very limited amount: only 600 bottles made, pure Malbec from a very high altitude, over 2000 m, that was offered for sale at around $3000 – at least this was the story version offered by the generous host. Mariflor Camille 2007 has a deep red garnet purple and opaque color. There is high intensity of aromas, the rich and profound nose shows plenty of sweet blackberry and mulberry essence, bacon fat, spices, rich dark chocolate. Opulent and lush on the palate but still fresh and elegant, with powerful tannins, layers of sweet black berries and dark chocolate, with a long and lingering finish, refreshing sweet tannins that stick to your gums. Very expressive even if it was open on a short notice. (93-94/100)
Chateau Margaux 2001 is an event wine by itself and does not need further introduction. Deep red garnet color. It was open 3 h in advance. Rich, elegant, intense and complex wine. Strong aromas of smoked paprika, cassis, pencil shavings on the nose with pure and clean aromas. Full bodied, silky smooth but assertive tannins, rich flavors on the palate, similar to its nose with additional caramel and fresh espresso, but changing nuances with every sip. Very harmonious and balanced, with an overall impression of class and esteem elegance. Long finish. (94/100)
Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2007 (St-Julien) was another spontaneous wine not appearing on the initial list. This is already drinking very well. The color is red garnet almost opaque. This is showing the exceptional pedigree of this producer that even in a poor vintage like 2007 made a stunning wine. The most striking difference between the Margaux and Leoville Las-Cases is that the smoky side is more prominent in the Margaux, while the Leoville has a bigger and more intense mineral side. The nose is very intense and complex, the graphite – pencil shavings seems to have been liquified and poured over fresh and sweet cassis, red bell pepper and anise seeds. Medium to full bodied, assertive tannins, quite rich and intense flavors, with plenty of cassis, chocolate and tea leaves. Medium to long finish, refreshing and mineral. (93/100)
Exotic fruits, coconut sorbet, meringue were paired with a 1996 Chateau Rieussec from Sauternes, a wine that I last tasted about 2 years ago and I enjoyed tremendously. It has a deep amber color. Very rich and intense nose, quince jam, Asian spices, saffron and orange marmalade just steal your senses. Rich and opulent on the palate, the 1996 was the first vintage when they started to use barrel aging for the wine. Long and intense finish. (93/100)
It was great culinary experience, a line up of top wines that puts me in a great challenge to pick a top 3.
In ultima vizita la una dintre locatiile Real hyper market am gasit la raionul special amenajat sub conceptul Real,-wine boutique noul catalog de vinuri editia 2015. Este un catalog profesionist, special realizat sub forma unui ghid de descoperire (discovery guide) care ofera informatii de baza tuturor celor care doresc sa descopere lumea vinului.
Catalogul este structurat pe doua sectiuni mari:
– Vin spumant si Sampanie: unde se regasesc informatii despre Povestea vinului spumant, Creatorii lui, Cum se fabrica ?, Sampania in cifre, Tipuri de Sampanie, Spumant international si Servirea spumantului.
– Vinuri albe si rosii unde informatia este prezentata asemanator: Tipuri de vin, Cum se fabrica ?, Tipuri de vin alb, de vin rosu si Tipuri de pahare de vin.
Ceea ce mi-a placut mult este ca cele mai importante soiuri de struguri sunt analizate in detaliu, oferindu-se informatii despre caracteristicile fiecarui tip de strugure, varietati ale productiei, mancaruri asociate, etc. ceea ce ajuta consumatorul in intelegerea mai buna a vinului pe care-l achizitioneaza. Cu alte cuvinte, informatii despre ce ar trebui sa regasesca in sticla cumparata, toate etichetele prezentate in catalog putand fi achizitionate din acest loc.
Am aflat cum isi selecta calugarul benedictin Perignon strugurii si cum a luat fiinta faimoasa Champagne Dom Perignon, povestea aparitiei Champagne La Grande Dame de la Veuve Clicquot, diferentele de productie ce confera stilul propriu ale sampaniilor Krug, Ruinart sau Billecart-Salmon, povestea italiana a Prosecco-ului, etapele de realizare a vinului incepand de la munca efectiva din vie, si o multime de alte informatii pretioase.
Acest catalog este disponibil in fiecare magazin Real la sectiunea Real,-wine boutique si este de asemenea oferit fiecarui participant la evenimentele “Totul pentru gust” si “Wine Club” ce se desfasoara in incinta magazinelor Real. Participarea la aceste evenimente se face numai printr-o rezervare in avans direct pe pagina de Facebook a magazinului, fie printr-un apel catre numarul de telefon mentionat in spotul de la TV sau de la radio.
Personal mi se pare o initiativa de laudat pentru ca face lumina in multitudinea de etichete prezentate la raft, consumatorul facand astfel tranzitia gradual si poate deveni mai usor un cunoscator al vinului. Catalogul este destul de stufos si contine mult mai multe informatii interesante decat cele reproduse in pozele din articol.