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4 vintages of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou

December 16, 2016 Leave a comment

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It’s been a while since I posted on this blog even though my drinking habits grew and expanded with some serious wines. Just could not find the drive to write. This time however I felt compelled to share my experience drinking this absolutely exceptional vintages from Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou.

This is a producer that sits on top of my short list of Bordeaux producers, a winery that I visited in 2011 and was impressed over the last years by the continuous quality of its wines every single vintage. Even in 2013 that seems a bleak vintage for red Bordeaux, Ducru-Beaucaillou managed to produce a wine that is deemed to be the wine of the vintage.

Met last night with 6 friends at La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge in Herastrau to drink these wines. Initially the plan was to have only the 2005 and 2009 that were bought from a store in Monaco, but I volunteered to bring bottles of 2006 and 2010. The two bottles of 2005 and 2009 were uncorked at noon together with 2006, while the 2010 I uncorked personally around 18:30 and left to breath in a decanter until about 9:00 pm.

Just a few things before the tasting notes:

  • quality for Ducru-Beaucaillou is at its highest and it has been like this since 2003 when the new management team came on board.
  • the 2009 vintage got a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker and at its launch was the most expensive Ducru ever released.
  • 2010 was awarded a 98 points by Parker and 100 points by James Suckling. When it was released Bruno Borie made a brilliant move by releasing the wine 10% cheaper in price compared to 2009, giving more confidence to its buyers that it is a well established and customer concerned producer. I know this because I was in Bordeaux when it was released.
  • 2005 is a vintage that will be spectacular even over the next 20-30 years from now.

And now the wines:

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The bottle of 2006 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou had a more than usual development and the wine felt 10-15 years older than it should actually be. This is not a general case for the 2006 Ducru as this wine can age. I had unfortunately the bad luck to purchase this particular faulty bottle. The wine shows over mature flavors and there is no point rating it as it is just an isolated case. NR

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The 2005 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou is a completely different story and from now on things start to get spectacular. This 11 years old wine combines freshness, complexity of aromas that came with aging and fresh fruit, developing nuances with every second and every sip in the glass. Still a bit shy on the nose compared to 2009 or even 2010, but very complete and balanced in every single way. Tannin is polished and velvety and bites the gums only in the long finish, rich fruit merrily gives flesh to its strong tannin structure that does not interfere at all on the palate. Very long. (96-97/100)

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2009 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou comes with fireworks, like a carousel that takes your senses to new highs when you least expect it and believe this is it, what else can it be ? This wine evolves in so many nuances as it sits in the glass and breathes that everybody was keeping their nose in the glass continuously like hunting dogs following the paths of their prey. It has everything: rich and lavish fruit, freshness, purity of aromas, complexity and depth, incredible depth actually. Taste is a symphony that swings again between rich sweet fruit, mineral freshness and rich sweet velvety tannin that pinches your gums from time to time just as a reminder of its greatness. This is a King-Kong wine. (99/100)

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2010 Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou would have certainly benefited from extensive aeration but it did not last much in the glasses. This was the biggest surprise of the night as it changed completely from the first to the last pour in the glasses. Initially shy and not very convincing on the nose, it did benefit from being served from Zalto Bordeaux Grand Cru glasses. Last 2 glasses were spectacular. There is certainly more minerality and freshness, and least lavish fruit here compared to 2009, but there is more precision, focus and intensity on the palate. This has a more classic Bordeaux side, where pencil shavings and paprika step a bit more forward, however fruit seems to be fresher and very well represented. More supple, cleaner, more precision and more serious on the palate. Gravelly tannin, rich red fruit, cassis, graphite, coffee, there are so many things happening here. Another kaleidoscope and multi layered wine that I somehow feel closer to my heart. Very, very long finish as well. (99/100)

There was another bottle of 2000 Vega-Sicilia Unico opened after this wines but it showed a more developed character than normal. I am sure it was just an isolated bottle, as another Unico 2000 that I had in September was excellent.

For food we had fresh pasta ravioli with funghi porcini and osso bucco with fresh shaved white truffles, risotto with funghi porcini, and New Zealand lamb chops. The pairing between 2005 Ducru and lamb chops was perfect. For me lamb and well aged Bordeaux is a match made in heaven.

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Italy’s finest

I had the privilege to attend an exclusive lunch where the theme was as you will read below Italy’s grandest Grand Cru wines. It was more of a Gaja themed line-up of wines completed with some of the most famous and cult like Super Tuscan’s.

All Gaja’s reds from Piedmont region are high priced wines of considerable force and character. Out of their portfolio, 3 wines stand aside even more as they are produced only from 3 separate single vineyards, all being made of 94-95% Nebbiolo with a small touch of Barberba d’Alba that gives them a higher complexity, but on the same time forbids them to carry the Barolo DOCG appellation. These 3 single Cru wines are the highest expression of Gaja’s know how and Nebbiolo’s interpretation coming from this top producer. They also give life to 3 different expressions of terroir diversity that make wine such an interesting beverage.

The red wines line up started with an older mature wine that today at 25 years old is singing, while the rest were very young (2006), powerful and not overly expressive in comparison. As a conclusion these wines need at least 15 years of bottle age to start to open up.

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We started with a Champagne Jacquesson Cuvee no 737 made of 70% wines from the 2009 vintage the rest older wines, from Premier and Grand Cru vines from Grande Vallee de la Marne and Cotes des Blancs. It is maturated sur lies in big oak barrels. It is 43% Chardonnay, 27% Pinot Noir and 30% Pinot Meunier, disgorged in November 2013. Color is medium gold with intense mousse. Initially very citrus like fruit, fresh dough and biscuit with a razor sharp palate, but after 30-45 minutes it gets softer with complex aromas of caramel, milk and pear, with a rounder and softer palate. Medium finish. (91/100)

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Gaja Sori Tildin 1990

Ruby red with brick light rim. Pure fresh cedar and mint nose. Extremely expressive. Also black currant buds.
Deep nose, ethereal, rich red fruit, cherries, smoke, game, dry rose petals, balsamic as it aerates. Mineral tones refresh the nose. Rich palate and such a silky smooth mouth feel, lots of red fruits and spices, tar. Very long finish with lingering aftertaste that comes back over and over . Plenty of life ahead, the amplitude of fruit is unbelievable. Very Burgundian like character. 96/100
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 Gaja Sori Tildin 2006
 Deep dark red color. This seems more closed both on the nose and the palate, very tight actually, red fruits, raspberry, cherry, roses, tar, Asian spices. A warm nose. Fresh cedar. Tight palate, assertive and high tannins, ‎youthful, rich legs on the glass, a fat and heady wine, aromas of red cherry, spices, very powerful, lots of structure. Very unforgiving in its youth. ‎Long finish, assertive tannins. 94/100
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Gaja Costa Russi 2006
Deep ruby red. Lots of strawberries and raspberries. Spices. Warm nose. Balsamic, a bit ripe. Warm palate. Kind of angular in the mouth and quite unsatisfying for the price. 91-92/100
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Gaja San Lorenzo 2006
Deep red almost opaque. Very deep nose, lost of fruit, more black fruit than red, blackcurrant, spices. Very concentrated, lush texture, lots of grainy tannins, plenty of sour cherries, plums, very youthful, toasty and tobacco. It is more international and comes along as a modern Barolo. Long finish. A very powerful wine with a mountain of tannins that needs plenty of time to get soft but it does have a certain weightless feeling in the mouth that makes it even more appealing. Real potential here. (95/100)
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There was also a 1974 Castello di Neive Barbaresco Riserva Santo Stefano that was cloudy in the glass and unfortunately completely dead.
There were not just any Super Tuscan’s that followed, we are talking about the most sought after investment wines from Italy: Masseto and Sassicaia.
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2009 was a warmer vintage so Sassicaia is a bit different than the regular style. There is a riper and more ample fruit both on the nose and palate, with softer tannins and richly textured. Plenty of black fruits, spices, charcoal and leather. Velvety tannins, lingering sweet black berry fruit, spices and a spicy paprika touch. Long finish. (93-94/100)
Today 2009 Sassicaia comes along more as the poor relative of the noble family consisting of this famous wines from Gaja.
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Masseto 2008
Leaving the crazy price aside, Masseto is a wine with its own category. 2008 Masseto has a very dark and opaque red garnet color. Deep and profound nose, very complex and constantly evolving in the glass. There is ripe and sweet black fruit, but there is freshness with cedar and pine needles. Very rich on the palate, dense and concentrated texture, but it has acidity and refreshing velvety tannins that create an amazing balance. Very long and complex wine. The 15.5% alc is just a number here. (97-98/100)
Crazy line up of wines for a regular weekday lunch.

Classy Spain

January 8, 2015 Leave a comment

Over the last few months I drank several wines from Spain, most of them worthy of being mentioned. It is always interesting to see how one single grape: Tempranillo, can show so many and different facets depending on the climate where it was grown, yields or wine-making style. Known more as providing the cheapest wines of Europe, Spain has its own jewels of the crown.

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Termanthia is produced from a small parcel of 4.78 ha of very old Tempranillo from a high altitude – 120 years old pre-filloxera vines, from Toro. Currently this winery is owned by the LVMH group that also owns Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau d’Yquem in Bordeaux.

Termanthia 2009 is an opaque, dark red colored wine. Highly complex and elegant nose, with very intense and pure aromas of ripe black forest fruits, dark chocolate, smoke, cured meats and licorice, that constantly evolves in the glass and impresses at every sip. The palate is dense, fleshy and concentrated, with refreshing, silky smooth but assertive tannins, vibrant acidity and a whole kaleidoscope of layers and flavors. The finish is very long, savory dark chocolate with blackberry essence lingering well in the aftertaste. There is a natural elegance in this wine that I found in many of the First Class French or Italian wines that is just astonishing. Nature’s own elegance. (96/100)

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Two older wines from Rioja made by what are known to be classic Old School producers: Lopez de Heredia and Muga, the wines cannot be more different. These 2 wines were drunk over 2 weeks distance.

Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Cosecha de 1994 has a pale medium ruby red color with a brick rim. This is a highly sensual and elegant wine, with a complex and layered aromatic profile that combines pure dill and fresh orange peel, sweet ripe cherries and currants, with a light touch of oriental spices and tertiary notes of undergrowth, tobacco and old leather. Mature, very feminine and almost weightless on the palate, the fully resolved velvety tannins and its vibrant acidity make a supple wine with pronounced flavors of tobacco, spices and red fruits. Finish is medium to long, very refreshing. I can see this wine pairing very well with a more delicate game dish – partridge, and even with a red meat fish. (92/100)

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Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva 1991 came even as a bigger surprise. In spite of being 3 years older than Tondonia, Muga feels at least 7-8 years younger. The color is deep ruby red. It takes about 2-3 h for the wine to open up completely – the wine is good to drink even after 20 min, and when it does it is a whole concert. A youthful complex and intense nose with rich aromas of ripe red cherry and strawberry, orange peel, sweet spices, pipe tobacco and old leather, with very delicate shades of dill. Full bodied, smooth like silk, a lush palate and plenty of vibrant and spicy red fruits. Medium to long finish, fresh and compelling. This feels as an immortal wine that will stay on this plateau of drinking decades from now. (94/100)

The most interesting Spanish wine I had in 2014 was at a friend’s birthday in October when a Magnum of Vega Sicilia Unico 1996 was popped. This wine came after a bottle of Krug Rose and while the expectations were high, the wine never ceased to amaze.

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1996 Vega Sicilia Unico has a dark red garnet color. After almost 4 h sitting in the decanter, the wine shows a youthful and maturing nose, highly complex and profound, with layers and layers of pure and intoxicating aromas of fresh blackberries and black cherries, refined oak and tobacco, a compelling freshness given by assertive orange rind and dill aromas, with savory cured meats and beef blood. Full and very dense palate, assertive smooth tannins and very detailed nuances of black fruits, spices and dark chocolate. Finish is very long, bitter espresso and sweet cranberry essence making a refreshing aftertaste that goes on and on. This is a monumental wine. (97/100)

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Aalto PS 2011 is probably one of the best deals from Spain for wines under 100 Eur. I had this wine 2 or 3 times last year and I always enjoyed it more even when drank with more expensive wines like Artadi Pagos Viejos or Cirsion from Roda. It’s full and expansive on the palate, with classy ripe black fruits, smart oak and refreshing espresso and dark chocolate aromas, while the finish is long and layered. (93-94/100)

Not an average wine-dinner

October 29, 2013 1 comment

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I was recently invited to attend the anniversary dinner organized by a good friend celebrating his birthday. A wine geek himself and big fan of red Italian and prestige wines, it was no surprise that the red wines tasted were all from Italy. With one exception the rest of the wines were all a first encounter for me.

Tuna tartar, fresh oysters and lobster salad were served with 2004 Cristal Champagne. A pale yellow lemon color with smooth and rich mousse, that opened up in stages on the nose and palate. Fresh dough, citrus fruit and a hint of crushed stones form the medium(+) intense and well developed nose. Medium(+) body, very acidic on the first sip, it opens up with air and becomes rounder, mellower and more enjoyable. Medium(+) finish, with bright citrus fruit, Granny Smith apple acidity and lingering hints of minerals. (92/100)

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Served with fresh pasta with butter and white truffles it was 2009 Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte Blanc (Pessac-Leognan). It ranks in the first Top 3 white wines I had this year. The color is pale yellow lemon. The nose shows great Pessac-Leognan typicality with generic smoked vanilla and tropical fruits, but it starts up gradually in intensity. The first nose is shy and it takes about 2 hours to fully reveal its intensity. It’s a different story on the palate: the level of flavor concentration it’s outstanding, you can literally taste fresh vanilla, smoke, fresh tangerines, mango and papaya, pears, peaches and white apricots. Flawless mouth-feel, medium acidity (that’s a surprise and probably that’s why is so enjoyable now), balanced and intense. Long finish, fresh and flamboyant, with plenty of exotic and tropical fruits. I fell in love with it. (97-98/100)

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Shifting to reds, the menu moved towards red meat: medium-rare tuna steak with grilled vegetables. Served in parallel there were 2006 Trinoro from Tenuta di Trinoro and 2007 Masseto from Ornellaia. 2006 Trinoro has the nose and mouth-feel of an Amarone. The color is deep dark red garnet. The nose is medium(+) intense, well developed and rich, with unusual Amarone like aromas: chocolate, rum and over ripe black fruits: blackberry, black cherry, cranberry and leather. The taste is full bodied, rich and concentrated, with medium polished tannins, with juicy blackberry, rum and chocolate. Medium(+) finish, black fruit liquor and sweet feel. (89-90/100)

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2007 Masseto is a totally different ball game. Tasted blind this could go for a sunny Pomerol. The color is medium red garnet color. Pronounced, elegant, well developed and complex nose, it takes time to open up. A mix of black cherry, plums, chocolate, cedar and graphite are just a few aromas of the complex nose. Full bodied, yet supple and elegant, the wine is a  monument of balance and complexity. The high level of polished tannins, the richness and concentration are outstanding. The 15% alcohol is just a number in this case, because the wine has freshness, elegance and a weightless mouth-feel. Long and pronounced finish, with fresh red fruits and coffee. (98/100)

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A 2008 Trinoro was also served to see if it has a similar profile of an Amarone like 2006. The color is deep red garnet. The nose is well developed, pronounced, intense and sweet. The ripe black fruit profile is there but manages to preserve freshness and hints of coffee. Full body, high polished and sweet tannins, sweet and juicy blackberry and cranberry, dark chocolate, plums, but still fresh. Long finish, lingering juicy black fruits. (93/100)

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Dinner was finished with a NV Billecart-Salmon Rose to wash the palate. Pink salmon color, intense mousse. Biscuit, bright red fruits and grapefruit, fresh and citrus palate, medium finish. (90-91/100)

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Degustare DAVINO (Marti 15 Octombrie 2013)

October 8, 2013 Leave a comment

Zilele acestea Davino se pregateste de lansarea noilor vinuri rosii din recolta 2010. Ne-am gandit sa vi le oferim in premiera la degustare pentru a le putea vedea inainte sa ajunga pe rafturile magazinelor de specialitate si in restaurante. Noi am fost surprinsi inca o data de noile vinuri mai ales venind dupa exceptionalul an 2009.

O alta premiera este un vin din noua gama, Iacob, si o scurta verticala de Revelatio pentru a vedea cum evolueaza in timp acest cupaj indraznet de Sauvignon Blanc & Feteasca Alba.

Iata vinurile propuse:

2009 DAVINO Revelatio (Sauvignon Blanc & Feteasca Alba)
2011 DAVINO Revelatio (Sauvignon Blanc & Feteasca Alba)
2011 Iacob Rosu (Cabernet Sauvignon & Feteasca Neagra)
2010 DAVINO Purpura Valahica (Feteasca Neagra)
2010 DAVINO Domaine Ceptura Rouge (Cabernet Sauvingon, Merlot & Feteasca Neagra)
2010 DAVINO Flamboyant (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Feteasca Neagra)
Surpriza: incheiem seara cu un vin care s-a asezat foarte bine de la lansare.

Ne intoarcem la locatia de inceput a degustarilor noastre, restaurantul Dada, acum proaspat renovat si parca si mai primitor.

Degustarea va avea loc marti, 15 octombrie 2013, de la ora 19:00, la Restaurantul Dada (Str. Matei Voievod nr. 94bis). Sunt 20 de locuri disponibile și fiecare costă 190 de lei, sumă care include vinurile, aperitivele și prezența noastră agreabilă.

Rezervări la +40722 141 879 (Nicușor) sau +40723 240 102 (Cosmin)
sau pe email: cosmin.grozea@gmail.com si nicusor.cazan@gmail.com

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O verticala de exceptie cu Dom Perignon

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Desi initiat de o scurta perioada de timp – aproximativ 3-4 luni, Clubul Vinului de la restaurantul La Brasserier Bistro&Lounge din Bucuresti incepe sa devina o miscare inchinata vinului care rivalizeaza cu cele mai selecte cluburi de vin internationale.

Deja in celelalte sesiuni desfasurate am putut degusta celebrele vinuri de la GAJA, vinuri de referinta din Franta – Bordeaux ani vechi si noi, Italia, Spania si Lumea Noua care se bucura in fiecare de an de aprecieri si punctaje foarte mari acordate de criticii importanti de vin.

Joi seara a fost dedicata in principal vinurilor vechi din Champagne. Cu siguranta unul dintre cele mai rare momente la care am participat si care aseaza cu usurinta Bucurestiul pe harta internationala a experientelor oenologice de exceptie: o degustare verticala de Dom Perignon cu varste de aproximativ 50 de ani. Lista vinurilor a fost: Dom Perignon 1962, 1964, 1966 si 1999, urmate de Dom Perignon Rose 2000.

Seara a fost deschisa cu o Champagne realizata 100% din Pinot Meunier, un strugure care in general se regaseste in procente minore in vinurile spumante ce provin din aceasta regiune. Producatorul este unul apreciat de cunoscatorii acestei regiuni: Egly-Ouriet. Vinul a fost o companie foarte buna pentru platoul de stridii proaspat aduse din Franta.

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Egly-Ouriet Les Vignes de Vrigny Premier Cru a stat 40 de luni pe drojdii inainte de a fi degorjat in 2011. Culoarea este galben intens, iar efervescenta buna. Aromele sunt intense si bine conturate, se regasesc citrice, condimente si note de caise verzi, iar in gura senzatia este de amplitudine, robustete si bogatie. Nu are senzualitatea unui Blanc de Blancs, dar compenseaza foarte bine prin celelalte atribute. Finalul este mediu, proaspat si citric. (90/100)

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Dupa ce am pregatit papilele cu prima Champagne, a inceput seria vinurilor mult asteptate. Sticlele au fost deschise cu 45-60 minute inainte, dopurile au fost scoase intregi fara nici o problema. Aparenta tuturor celor 3 vinuri vechi  – 1962, 1964, 1966 – este foarte similara: un chihlimbar deschis ce bate inspre portocaliu, curat, cu limpiditate foarte buna, fara a mai avea insa efervescenta.

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Dom Perignon Vintage 1962 provine dintr-un an cu iarna lunga, primavara a adus furtuni si piatra in regiune, vara a fost racoroasa, fapt ce a intarziat inflorirea vitelor de vie. Vremea frumoasa din Septembrie a ajutat, iar recolatarea a inceput in 4 Octombrie.

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Vinul prezinta urme de oxidare la nas imediat dupa deschidere, inducand o anumita anxietate in randul participantilor la degustare ca avem o prima sticla defecta. Gustul in schimb readuce speranta. La nivelul nasului avem aromele unui vin alb vechi foarte similar cu vinul de Sherry: samburi amarui de fructe, fulgi de migdale, mar usor oxidat, dar si o nota usor dulceaga, iar lipsa fructului ii scade din prestanta. In gust vinul este sec, dar prezinta inca arome placute de citrice uscate si nuci, castigand chiar in profunzime cu aerarea. Finalul este mediu spre lung, cu note de migdale. (87-88/100)

Dom Perignon Vintage 1964 provine dintr-un an foarte bun, cu vara uscata si torida, recoltarea incepand pe 16 Septembrie. Vehiculat la inceput ca vinul seriei, sticla ne contrazice expectantele.

Vinul prezinta un caracter oxidativ – cel mai pronuntat intre cele trei – iar gustul nu salveaza din pacate situatia. Exista arome de migdale si sherry, iar gustul este monolitic si lipsit de focuri de artificii. Finalul este scurt spre mediu. (85/100)

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Dom Perignon Vintage 1966 provine dintr-un an ce a produs struguri perfect copti si sanatosi, recoltarea incepad pe 22 Septembrie. Vinul este cel mai interesant dintre cele trei. La nivelul nasului este  intens si complex, iar aromele pregnante creaza senzatia ca in pahar avem cea mai gustoasa si mai rafinata crema de zahar ars cu vanilie de cea mai buna calitate si caramel. Mirosul este seducator si complet neasteptat. In gust vinul are amplitudine, este usor afumat, cu note de caise uscate si turta dulce, si o rotunjime care-l face usor de placut, si final lung. Cel mai reusit vin al seriei de Champagne foarte vechi. (89-90/100)

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Dom Perignon Vintage 1999 vine in forta si ne readuce inapoi la realitate cu profilul sau puternic fructat. Vinul  are o culoare galben pai deschis, cu efervescenta intensa. La nivel olfactiv s-a conturat un profil ce aminteste de un Riesling sec vechi din Alsacia. Arome de petrol, piersici si caise verzi, citrice si o nota de afumat. In gust suntem inapoi pe taramul vinurilor spumante: aciditatea ii confera tensiune asemeni unui curent, iar notele citrice si usor minerale ii dau amplitudine pe palatin. Finalul este mediu spre lung, proaspat si revigorant. Mi se pare perfecta de baut acum desi are in continuare potential de pastrare. (92/100)

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Dom Perignon Rose Vintage 2000 are culoarea roz somon ce bate inspre cupru si efervescenta intensa. Nasul este foarte bine conturat, complex si intens. Aromele de fructe rosii mici, alterneaza cu cele florale, cu cele de coaja de portocala confiata si arome minerale de fum. Un nas superb si complex. In gust structura este magistrala, are consistenta, rotunjime, fiind deopotriva ampla si precisa. Finalul este lung, proaspat, citric si fructat. O Champagne care poate oferi satisfactii si mai mari in timp. (94-95/100)

Dupa aceasta serie spectaculoasa de vinuri din Champagne am putut degusta 4 vinuri rosii din Rioja: Sela 2010, Roda Reserva 2008, Roda I Reserva 2007 si Cirsion 2009. Din pacate vinurile rosii nu au avut impactul pe care-l merita dupa seria de Champagne.

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Cele care mi-au captat atentia in mod deosebit au fost Roda I Reserva 2007 si Cirsion 2009 – prin prospetimea data de aromele de ace de pin si robustetea simtita in gust. Despre vinurile rosii intr-un articol diferit.

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Davino Flamboyant – o verticala romaneasca de exceptie

December 14, 2012 1 comment

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Aseara am participat la o degustare pe care o pot inscrie fara nici o ezitare in categoria “Top wine tastings of 2012” daca m-as gandi sa fac un bilant al acestui an. La fel ca si anul trecut (se pare ca este o traditie deja) evenimentul a fost organizat de Vinexpert impreuna cu Davino si gazduit de Wine bar-ul lor din Dorobanti. Asa cum s-a afirmat in deschiderea evenimentului, Vinexpert urmareste sa organizeze o degustare speciala ca ultim eveniment de sfarsit de an. Anul trecut aceeasi ocazie a reprezentat o verticala de 6 ani diferiti de Domaine Ceptura Rouge de la Davino. Anul acesta au fost mai putine vinuri, dar si mai spectaculoase.

Evenimentul si vinurile au fost prezentate de insusi proprietarul cramei, dl Dan Balaban, care a explicat foarte detaliat conditiile de recolta ale fiecarui an, schimbarile pe care le-a intreprins crama in evolutia vinului de la an la an, s-au comentat vinurile si s-a raspuns la intrebarile din public.

Primul vin degustat este rezultatul unui “accident”, in sensul ca la o recenta verificare a stocurilor a fost descoperit un palet de sticle de Merlot vinificat special si uitat intr-un colt al cramei. Conform domnului Balaban, Davino produce pentru clienti speciali la cerere vinuri din soiuri pure de struguri. Este cazul si acestui Davino Merlot (Rezerva) 2007 care a fost oferit si va fi gasit in exclusivitate in reteaua magazinelor Vinexpert la pretul de 111 Ron.

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Desi servit putin prea cald fata de temperatura optima, Davino Merlot (Rezerva) 2007 prezinta un nas evoluat, complex, cu arome de fructe rosii confiate, gem, prune uscate, fum, eucalipt. Un vin extractiv, structurat, cu note de cafea, tanin usor astringent, arome de gem de cirese negre amarui in finalul mediu spre lung. Servit la temperatura ideala va surprinde prin complexitatea sa. 13.2% alc (90/100)

Flamboyant-ul reprezinta vinul rosu de top al acestui producator, realizat doar in anii cei mai buni. Se folosesc cele mai bune parcele de Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot si Feteasca Neagra, este maturat pana la 10 luni in stejar pur romanesc din diferite zone ale tarii, macerare indelungata pe pielitele strugurilor (in jur de 28 de zile), rezultatul fiind o capacitate foarte buna de invechire dar si faptul ca vinurile au nevoie de o perioada mai indelungata de timp pentru a se deschide.

Davino are in plan constructia unei noi crame in Ceptura care va oferi posibilitatea pe viitor a unei maturari mai indelungate a vinurilor. Deja acest proces de prelungire a maturarii in butoaie de stejar a fost inceput in 2006 prin aparitia noilor vinuri Rezerva rosu produs pana acum in 2006, 2007 si 2009.

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Verticala de Flamboyant a inclus vinurile din 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009 si in premiera 2010 care va fi lansat cel mai probabil pana in Paste anul viitor. Flamboyant a fost realizat pentru prima oara in 2002 (ca experiment) intr-un lot de doar 600 de sticle care nu a fost comercializat. In 2004, 2005 si 2008 nu a fost produs.

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Flamboyant 2003

Nas evoluat, in proces de maturare, arome de fructe rosii si negre, confiate, prune, o nota de bacon,  fresh, ia timp sa se deschida, complex si profund. Corpolent, rotund, carnos, puternic dar in acelasi timp cizelat, arome de gem de fructe rosii, visine, tanin polisat, dulce si copt, se deschide in etape si surprinde la fiecare inghititura. Expresie foarte profunda de fruct rosu cu puritate a aromelor, condiment si visina in diverse stadii: coapta, gem, putreda. Prezinta un adevarat caleidoscop de arome si te incita sa-l descoperi. Final lung, polisat, cu tanin dulce pe gingii. Este recomandata deschiderea lui cu 24 de ore inainte de a fi consumat pentru a oferi expresia maxima. Vinul prezinta o tinerete de invidiat si prezinta un potential de pastrare de cel putin inca 10 ani. In momentul in care s-a degustat acest vin s-a facut liniste completa in sala.  (92-93/100)

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Flamboyant 2006

Nas evoluat, cu semne de maturitate, aminteste izbitor de buchetul unui Bordeaux vechi  de calitate (1995-1996) care a evoluat frumos la sticla; iodat, deschis, complex, cu arome de cedru si busuioc, fruct rosu perfect copt, spice, fresh, pruna uscata, deosebit de expresiv. Stil clasic Bordeaux, extractiv, cu prospetime remarcabila, scortisoara, visina putreda, cedru, structurat, viu, cu mineralitate ce confera prospetime texturii, final lung, spicy, proaspat, tanin ferm. Un vin elegant si expresiv, feminin si in antiteza completa daca-l comparam cu 2003-ul. O evolutie foarte buna care m-a facut sa-l plasez (ca preferinta proprie) in fruntea degustarii din aceasta seara datorita accesibilitatii sale. (92/100)

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Flamboyant 2007

Nas evoluat, nu la fel de complex ca cele dinainte, mentolat cu arome de busuioc uscat, piele, spice mai pronuntat, mai putina Feteasca Neagra in cupaj ca in alti ani dar componenta condimentata specifica FN iese mai pregnant in evidenta datorita anului cald si coacerii depline; arome de fructe rosii coapte, confiate, gem, visina si o usoara adiere de violete. Structurat, cu tanin viu, dulce si ferm, cafea, un vin plin, ceva mai astringent, mai inchis pe palatin. Final lung, proaspat, tanin care-si manifesta prezenta din plin si gem de fruct rosu. Vinul are nevoie de mai mult timp pentru a capata expresivitatea unui 2006. (90/100)

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Flamboyant 2009

Vinul e la fel de interesant ca acum o saptamana cand l-am degustat direct la crama. Nas fin, piper verde, tutun, piele, extract puternic, structurat, echilibrat, taninuri masive si ferme, putin uscate, dulceata de visine si cirese negre, piper verde, aciditate proaspata, final lung, ferm in postgust, cu tanin dulce pe gingii. Vin cu rezerve de arome care va avea o evolutie probabil mult mai spectaculoasa decat 2003-ul de azi. Din nou as recomanda achizitia de 2009 si pastrarea lui pentru ca in 10 ani vinul va fi si mai spectaculos. (92-93/100)

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Flamboyant 2010

Nas bine evoluat pentru un vin atat de tanar, cu arome de stejar extrem de bine lucrate, intens, concentrat, arome de piele, trufe, visina coapta, carne de vita cruda, gust plin, structurat, masiv, iti da senzatia ca musti din el, fruct copt-gem pe palatin, final lung, tanin prezent usor uscat dar lasa dulceata pe gingii. Un vin tanar, intens, extractiv, final lung, structura tanica masiva dar taninurile sunt coapte si dulci. Granulatie fina a texturii cu senzatie de pudra fina de cacao. Recunosc ca mi-e foarte greu sa acord un rating acestui vin, dar trebuie specificat ca are toate atributele pentru a depasi bariera superioara de 90/100 si urca mult peste: complexitate, profunzime, structura, final lung.

O degustare eveniment care a incheiat in forta seria de evenimente marca Vinexpert.

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