Cinele gourmet marca real,- wine boutique

Saptamana trecuta au avut loc 2 evenimente gourmet in cadrul magazinului real,– din Arad in sectiunea de vin real,-wine boutique ce au introdus o serie noua de vinuri perfecte pentru aceste zile calde de vara. Este vorba despre ‘Totul pentru gust‘ si ‘Wine club‘ in cursul carora participantii au aflat povestea clasicelor vinuri spumante de Cremant, a celebrelor rose-uri din Provence, dar si noutati din portofoliul amplu detinut de Bernard Magrez.

Pentru cine nu este familiar cu acest nume, Bernard Magrez este proprietarul a mai multor domenii din Bordeaux: Chateau Pape Clement fiind cel mai cunoscut dintre ele, Chateau La Tour Carnet, Chateau Fombrauge, dar si din alte parti ale Frantei si ale lumii. Produce impreuna cu actorul Gerard Depardieu vinuri in Languedoc-Franta si in Maroc, dar are detineri si in Argentina, Chile, Japonia, California (USA), Uruguay si Spania. Calitatea este ceea ce caracterizeaza vinurile pe care le produce, pasiunea sa pentru excelenta fiind remarcata si prin asocierea cu celebrul Chef si proprietar de restaurante cu stele Michelin: Joel Robuchon si deschiderea restaurantului ‘La Grand Maison de Bernard Magrez’ din Bordeaux.

Cele doua evenimente marca real,-wine boutique s-au desfasurat in zilele de 30 Iunie si 1 Iulie si au fost initiate cu un spumant creat dupa metoda traditionala de producere a sampaniei ce presupune a doua fermentatie in sticla si invechirea pe drojdii cel putin 12 luni inainte de a fi degorjat. Cremant Langlois Brut este produs din struguri de Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc si Chenin Blanc, si provine din regiunea Loarei. De un galben deschis, acest cremant prezinta miros de citrice si pere, completat de un gust proaspat si fructat. Prezinta o aciditate medie si un perlaj fin. Este versatil fiind potrivit si pentru realizarea diferitelor cocktail-uri avand un raport calitate/pret excelent.

Noutatea acestor evenimente este faptul ca preparatele culinare sunt gatite live in fata participantilor de catre chef Liviu Chiorpec, in timp ce asocierile culinare si motivele alegerii lor sunt explicate de catre consultantul Ladislau Kristof si unul dintre reprezentantii furnizorului sau al producatorului de vin.

Chateau Tour des Gendres Cuvee de Conti 2014 este realizat din Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc si Muscadelle, avand o particularitate speciala, mai ales ca acesti struguri sunt culesi foarte copti si partial sunt trecuti prin procesul de „passerillage” (strugurii sunt lasati pe vie sa se stafideasca si apoi sunt vinificati). Stilul vinului este unul bogat si intens, cu arome dulci de fructe galbene si o densitate buna in gust. Asocierea cu Tokana de fructe de mare a scos in evidenta o usoare nota salina a vinului.

Bernard Magrez Aries Estate 2014 este un Malbec tipic din regiunea Mendoza din Argentina ce a fost deosebit de apreciat pentru notele sale fructoase de cirese negre, mure si de ciocolata neagra, cu tanin fin si senzatie de carnos in gust. Stocul a fost lichidat repede, in acest moment vinul fiind disponibil cu precomanda pe site-ul realwineboutique. Asocierea cu coaste de porc la cuptor slow cocked cu piure de cartofi cu susan i-a scos in evidenta complexitatea.

Bernard Magrez Casa Magrez 2013 este un vin special produs in Uruguay din struguri de Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon si Tannat, fiind o reala surpriza pentru participanti. O asociere clasica pentru un vin atat de dens si de intens a fost file de vita cu legume, taninul bogat al Tannat-ului dand savoare preparatului.

Evenimentul ‘Totul pentru gust‘ a fost dedicat vinurilor rose produse in diferite regiuni ale Frantei: Kressmann Bordeaux Grande Reserve Rose 2014 (Bordeaux) fiind asociat cu filet de biban cu sos de Lime, Hecht&Bannier Rose 2014 (Languedoc) cu somon posat pe un pat de salata verde si Maison Fabre Cuvee Villa Garrel 2014 (Provence) cu muschiulet de porc cu legume. Au fost remarcate diferitele culori ale vinurilor in functie de tipul de struguri din care au fost produsi, corpolenta, prospetimea si intensitatea gustului.

 

Grand Tasting Dinner

Last TUE evening on May 5th I attended a special dinner at Le Bistrot Francais near Ateneu organized for 10 people that included some fancy wines paired with a tasting food menu. Each wine was matched with a dish meant to enhance the overall culinary experience.

The tasting food menu was: Cinco Jotas Jamon Iberico de Bellota 36 months aged, Special Oysters Daniel Sorlut No1 and La Perle Blanche No 3, Fish carpaccio, lime flakes, crispy chickpeas sticks with rosemary, Braised sea bass, mashed potatoes with olive oil, truffles sauce, “Crispy-fondant” pork belly, ravigote sauce, crispy vegetables, potatoes puree, Wagyu entrecote, potatoes puree à la Joël Robuchon, Exotic fruits, coconut sorbet, meringue, Dried plums ice cream with Armagnac.

The food was again top as my last visit here, my favorites were the Special Oysters Daniel Sorlut No1, Braised sea bass, mashed potatoes with olive oil, truffles sauce and “Crispy-fondant” pork belly, ravigote sauce, crispy vegetables, potatoes puree.

Champagne Duval-Leroy Authentis Cumieres Brut 2003 is made from 100% Pinot Noir de Cumieres (Premier Cru), organically grown grapes and aged in fut de chene. The color is a light amber so there is a clear oxidative character to this wine that hits you the moment you smell the glass: quite intense aromas of apple cider, caramel-toffee, nuts, brioche and dry citrus fruits. There is intensity and tension on the palate but the 2003 hot vintage shows its mark by a lower acidity. Quite an opulent style and this is an acquired taste Champagne that divides opinions. For me a bit too oxidative. (88/100)

Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc 2009 was served next to oysters and its intense smoky nose seemed to be a good choice. The color is deep gold. Very intense and opulent nose as the palate, with strong aromas of smoked vanilla, tropical fruits and peach, vibrant fruit on the palate but again it feels the medium to low acidity starts to lose the balance with the lush sweet fruit. Long finish, elegant and complex wine. (93-94/100)

Fish carpaccio, lime flakes, crispy chickpeas sticks with rosemary

2009 Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Clos de la Garenne” was a refreshing Chardonnay, its aromas jump from the glass. An initial flinty character gradually leaves room for aromas of fresh citrus, apricots and wet stones. There is intensity on the palate, with lively citrus fruit and flint and overall great freshness. Long finish. (93/100) Pairing with fish carpaccio was a happy choice.

Braised sea bass, mashed potatoes with olive oil, truffles sauce

Domaine Abbatucci Cuvée du Général Jean Charles Abbatucci 2012 from Corse is a blend of 6 grapes: 25% Carcajolu Biancu, 25% Paga Debbiti, 20% Riminese, 15% Rossola Brandica, 10% Biancone, 5% Vermentinu, aged in 600 L demi-muids and is labelled as Vin de Table. Quite a pricey Vin de Table as it averages around 100 Eur. The color is medium yellow gold. The first nose when the wine was the coldest reminds of a German Grosses Gewachs Riesling due to its petrol-kerosene nose. However, when the wine warms up in the glass it gets a Southern France – Chateauneuf du pape blanc profile, with intense dry yellow fruits, dry apricots and Asian spices: turmeric aroma is really strong. The palate is rich and heady, the same dry fruits are sustained by medium acidity and as it getter warmer starts to lose a bit of balance. A heady and opulent white wine. (90/100)

Chateau La Grande Clotte 2002 made by Michel Rolland was not on the initial wine list and was a spontaneous offer from the host. The color is amber and the wine shows strong signs of being too old. The same apple cider aroma as the Champagne but more intense and overwhelming. There is bright acidity on the palate but you have to be generous to enjoy it now. Probably a strong cheese pairing as was suggested at the table would put this wine on a better spot.

“Crispy-fondant” pork belly, ravigote sauce, crispy vegetables, potatoes puree

Pork would probably not be my first choice to pair with a Pinot Noir but tonight’s pairing was a brilliant unexpected surprise. Hospices de Beaune Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru ‘Cuvee Madeleine Collignon’ from Joseph Drouhin has a medium ruby red color. It has a refreshing, elegant and complex nose that includes fresh raspberries, red cherries, sous-bois and potpourri in its aromatic profile. Medium to full body, with sappy tannins and a savoury sweet and bright cherry fruit on the palate, and a medium to long fresh finish that leaves a flavorful  black tea aftertaste. (92-93/100)

Another spontaneous offer from the host. Made by Michel Rolland and named after his niece from one of his properties in Argentina in a very limited amount: only 600 bottles made, pure Malbec from a very high altitude, over 2000 m, that was offered for sale at around $3000 – at least this was the story version offered by the generous host. Mariflor Camille 2007 has a deep red garnet purple and opaque color. There is high intensity of aromas, the rich and profound nose shows plenty of sweet blackberry and mulberry essence, bacon fat, spices, rich dark chocolate. Opulent and lush on the palate but still fresh and elegant, with powerful tannins, layers of sweet black berries and dark chocolate, with a long and lingering finish, refreshing sweet tannins that stick to your gums. Very expressive even if it was open on a short notice. (93-94/100)

Chateau Margaux 2001 is an event wine by itself and does not need further introduction. Deep red garnet color. It was open 3 h in advance. Rich, elegant, intense and complex wine. Strong aromas of smoked paprika, cassis, pencil shavings on the nose with pure and clean aromas. Full bodied, silky smooth but assertive tannins, rich flavors on the palate, similar to its nose with additional caramel and fresh espresso, but changing nuances with every sip. Very harmonious and balanced, with an overall impression of class and esteem elegance. Long finish. (94/100)

Chateau Leoville Las Cases 2007 (St-Julien) was another spontaneous wine not appearing on the initial list. This is already drinking very well. The color is red garnet almost opaque. This is showing the exceptional pedigree of this producer that even in a poor vintage like 2007 made a stunning wine. The most striking difference between the Margaux and Leoville Las-Cases is that the smoky side is more prominent in the Margaux, while the Leoville has a bigger and more intense mineral side. The nose is very intense and complex, the graphite – pencil shavings seems to have been liquified and poured over fresh and sweet cassis, red bell pepper and anise seeds. Medium to full bodied, assertive tannins, quite rich and intense flavors, with plenty of cassis, chocolate and tea leaves. Medium to long finish, refreshing and mineral. (93/100)

Exotic fruits, coconut sorbet, meringue were paired with a 1996 Chateau Rieussec from Sauternes, a wine that I last tasted about 2 years ago and I enjoyed tremendously. It has a deep amber color. Very rich and intense nose, quince jam, Asian spices, saffron and orange marmalade just steal your senses. Rich and opulent on the palate, the 1996 was the first vintage when they started to use barrel aging for the wine. Long and intense finish. (93/100)

It was great culinary experience, a line up of top wines that puts me in a great challenge to pick a top 3.

Vinuri de top de peste 90 puncte – Degustare 28 ianuarie 2015

Viața este prea scurtă ca să bem vinuri proaste! Ghidându-ne după vorba asta de duh, ne-a venit idea unei degustări de vinuri foarte bune din toată lumea. Ca si criteriu am ales numai vinuri de peste 90 de puncte. Si iata ce a iesit:

• 2012 Clos des Lunes “Lune d’Argent”  – Bordeaux Blanc sec produs in Sauternes, Franta – 91 puncte
• 1998 Lopez de Heredia Reserva Tondonia Blanco – Rioja, Spania – 93 puncte
• 2003 Guado al Tasso Antinori – Toscana, Italia – 92 puncte
• 2004 Pasanau Finca La Planeta – Priorat, Spania – 95 puncte
• 2003 Chateau Musar Rouge – Liban – 92 puncte
• 2006 Trapiche Single Vineyard Malbec Bibiana y Christina Coletto – Argentina – 95 puncte
• 2007 Modus Ruffino – Toscana, Italia – 96 puncte #25 in Top 100 Wine Spectator 2010
  
• 2004 Chateau La Tour Figeac (St-Emilion) – Bordeaux, Franța – 91 puncte

Ne gândim să facem degustarea “in blind” în pereche de câte două vinuri. Adică nu vă spunem ce turnăm în pahare decât după ce degustăm și ne facem o părere. Ce ziceți?

Degustarea va avea loc miercuri, 28 ianuarie 2015, de la ora 19:30, la Restaurant Dada (Str. Matei Voievod 94bis). Sunt 12 locuri disponibile și fiecare costă 235 lei, sumă care include vinurile, o sticlă de apă și prezența noastră agreabilă.

Pentru rezervari contactati-ma pe cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau la telefon 0723 240 102 Cosmin sau prin completarea formularului de mai jos cu datele de contact si numarul de locuri dorite.

(Pentru cei nefamiliarizați cu sistemul de 100 de puncte pentru vinuri, vă spun doar că ce este peste 90 de puncte sunt vinuri deosebite, iar ce este peste 95, well, sunt considerate exceptionale, adică foarte puține, deosebit de bune și de obicei foarte scumpe)

Nume(required)

Email(required)

Telefon(required)

Comentariu(required)

Submit

Δ

Rolland’s Collection with David Lesage

I was invited to attend a very interesting tasting organized by Le Manoir, the Romanian importer and distributor of Michel Rolland’s wines. I believe, or would like to believe, that any person that likes and consumes wine, or at least is interested in wine, heard about Michel Rolland. As debatable as his wines are perceived for being too extracted or too oaky, most of the prestigious Chateaux in Bordeaux employ his consulting services. He is definitely a great blender.

Last night Mr Rolland’s son-in-law, David Lesage, presented some of the wines included in the so-called Rolland’s Collection. I actually met Mr Lesage one year ago when he conducted another wine session presenting the same Collection but some from different vintages, session organized also by Le Manoir. His presentations are interesting and engaging, filled with technical details but also spiced up with “behind the curtain” information.

I found out last night that in Bordeaux it became mandatory to mention the alcohol level on the labels starting with the ’70s. If the alcohol level is above the appellation’s rules a producer might not be able to use the AOC for that particular vintage. Mr. Lesage mentioned how Michel Rolland had the initiative to measure the alcohol level in a legendary wine: 1947 Chateau Cheval Blanc and the result is just staggering: 14.8%. Should the 1970s regulations have been in place in 1947, Cheval Blanc would have not carried the Saint-Emilion Grand Cru appelation. Interesting information for a wine geek. So the blamed high alcohol levels we see often today on Bordeaux wines are not a first.

We started with a white wine made from a 1 ha plot from Lussac-Saint-Émilion, normally a red wine appellation, labelled as a Bordeaux Blanc and produced in a relative short supply. The wine is aged for up to 12 months in new French oak barrels. The use of new French oak barrels is a common thing to all wines in the Rolland’s Collection. Chateau La Grande Clotte 2009 is a white blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Gris, Semillon and up to 50% Muscadelle. The wine is opulent, both on the nose, as on the palate, oaky and elegant is the last word that comes to my mind when describing this wine. A wine that grabs your attention immediately but a bit too much for me.

Next two wines were 2002 and 2005 Chateau Le Bon Pasteur Pomerol served in parallel from two separate glasses to better compare them. The 2002 is completely open and ready to drink, showing pronounced aromas of green vegetables, green bell pepper and grass, (2002 was a rainy and hard to ripe vintage in Bordeaux) mixed with smoke, red fruits and a touch of minerals. Full bodied and filling the palate, fresh, structured, with assertive tannins. The wine is a pleasure to drink right now and has no problem holding further years. (90-91/100)

2005 Le Bon Pasteur is at a different stage. The wine feels tempered and restraint compared to 2002, but it has a depth and a complexity not matched by its older brother. Well structured, grippy tannins, fresh, ripe, full and hiding a lot of potential. Long and best to be left alone for now. (92/100)

Next wine was Le Defi de Fontenil, a 100% Merlot made only 5 or 6 times since 1999: 2000, 2001, 2004, 2005, 2008 and 2009 (if I understood correctly). Even though the property sits in Fronsac, the wine is labelled as a simple Vin de Table because INAO  did not approve the experiment started  in 2000 by Dany and Michel Rolland to place plastic sheeting on the soil between the rows of vines on some plots in Château Fontenil to prevent rain penetration during the month preceding the harvest. It is probably one of the most, if not the most expensive Vin de Table produced in France. The berries are fermented in open oak barrels custom made for the Chateau, while the temperature is controlled by the use of dry ice. Aged for 18 months in new French oak barrels, this is an opulent, super concentrated and hedonistic expression of Merlot. We had the 2005 vintage which is extremely youthful, oaky, concentrated, structured, with fine sweet and fully ripe tannins. Long finish with opulent aromas and flavors of plums, cassis and prunes. Too young to be fully enjoyed at the moment. Probably a guy on steroids would mirror the image of this wine. A style that has its own fans.

Being a Vin de Table the producer is not allowed to mentioned the vintage on the label, however on the back label it is specified differently this information: 2005 appears as 05 and similarly for other vintages.

The 2003 Remhoogte Bonne Nouvelle made in South Africa, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinotage shows a more classic line, in complete antitheses with Le Defi de Fontenil. It is a style that I like more and it is hard to stay away from its pleasant smoky profile. Really balanced and perfectly enjoyable. At almost 10 years of age it is youthful and capable to hold many more years.

Last two wines were both Malbec’s made in Argentina: Val de Flores 2004 from vineyards sitting at 1000 m altitude, and Yacochuya 2004 from vines sitting at over 2000 m altitude. The climates are completely different as the properties are separated by over 1000 km. Both wines show an incredible high alcohol level: 15% for Val de Flores and a staggering 16.5% for Yacochuya, both are powerful wines but show amazing balance, ripe sweet tannins, structure and concentration to hide the heat.  Yacochuya is massive and super-concentrated, probably one the most concentrated wines I tasted so far and yet silky on the palate. (91-92/100) for Val de Flores 2004 and (93-94/100) for Yacochuya 2004.

There was also a Spanish Tempranillo made in Toro: 2003 Campo Eliseo (Champs Elysées in French), a wine made together with Jacques Lurton. A modern expression of Tempranillo.

The tasting was fun and interesting and after so much alcohol I left home a happy man. Before this event I actually had the chance to taste 3 other great wines: 2001 Masi Mazzano (92-93/100), 2006 Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco showing already a good approachability (91/100) and a very young and woody 2009 Tignanello (91/100).

2006 Trapiche Single Vineyard Vina Federico Villafane

I tasted this wine several times over the last 3-4 years and I was able to observe his evolution. It is said that most top notch New World wines do not evolve after their 5th or 6th year from the vintage. Being able to sample at least a bottle per year since 2009, I observed a smooth transition from really big oaky flavors with plenty of coconut, caramel and creme brulee, and almost opaque, deep dark red-purple color, to where the wine it is today.

2006 Trapiche Single Vineyard Vina Federico Villafane

Deep dark red garnet color. Intense nose but rather shy compared to the blockbuster that it used to be; it certainly gives the impression of a  more elegant wine. There are however rich aromas of ripe fruit mixed with coffee, toffee, tobacco and spices on the nose. Full bodied and dense on the palate, it is the first time that it shows a backward character. The tannins are ripe and sweet, it is well balanced, but the wine is no longer generous in flavors. It maintains a good structure and has a long fruity and spicy finish, but I feel that it is somehow closing down. This has to be followed and see how it develops in time. 14.5% alc (91/100)

2006 Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Federico Villafane

This was one of the first wines I enjoyed when I discovered my passion for wines. The Single Vineyard category is a selection of the best three Malbecs that Trapiche chooses every year from the vineyards and the producers they work with, while these wines become their statement for excellency. These wines spend 18 months in new French oak. It’s been more than one year since my last tasting of this wine.

2006 Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Vina Federico Villafane

The color is dark purple, opaque and youthful, with absolutely no signs of evolution. The nose is developed, sweet, with intense aromas of coconut, caramel, ripe blackberry and raspberry, mocha and spices. Full bodied, with an extremely silky mouth-feel and a firm tannins structure, the wine is opulent and rich on the palate. The finish is long and intense, with sticky sweet flavors that do not let go of your cheeks and a healthy grip of tannins that provide freshness to this massive, otherwise concentrated wine. (91/100)

I am very curious if this wine will evolve and develop other subtleties in time. I guess that remains to be seen. Meanwhile the wine is extremely open and available for drinking as it is.

2004 Enrique Foster Malbec Limited Edition

This is the oldest Argentinian Malbec I had so far and it was a big curiosity for me to see how a New World wine evolves with age. The wine is dominated by primary aromas an there is no sign of evolution. My knowledge so far with these type of New World wines is that they cease any particular evolution after their 4th or 5th year from the vintage and what happens is that eventually, the wine dries out, losing the sweet, fruity aromas that usually dominate them, leaving very little that can excite the palate. Naturally, the exceptions can be interesting to sample.

2004 Enrique Foster Malbec Limited Edition

Dark red purple color and really thick legs on the glass. A very complex nose, complex, well developed and oaky, peppery, a mix of black fruits, coffee and floral. Full bodied, heady and super concentrated, with depth on the palate and rich flavors of black fruits jam, ripe blackberry, cranberry and gooseberry, with touches of coffee and pepper; very ripe and velvety tannins, but also a good grip just to give enough freshness and stop it from being a massive fruit bomb. Sumptuous palate. There is good balance and real complexity in this wine. A long finish with rich flavors of black fruits and spice with assertive tannins. (91/100)

BV by Enira 2007

Last week, on WED evening, I had dinner with Marc Dworkin – he was in Romania for a few days to check the vines and the grapes at Aliman, and taste the 2010s that are still in barrel.  I asked him if we could taste 2007 BV by Enira, as my last attempt to taste this wine together with Mr Karl Heinz Hauptmann was not successful – out of all the wines tasted, this one was corked. Marc kindly agreed. We started with an Argentinian Shiraz that was offered to me by its producer at Vinexpo.

2006 Las Moras Gran Shiraz Zonda Valley

Deep dark red-purple color. A youthful and developed nose with plump black and red fruit: ripe blackberry, mulberry, a light touch of black pepper and bacon. Medium to full bodied, very silky on the palate, with almost no tannins but plenty of sweet fruit. Lacks grip and goes hollow on the back palate. Medium finish with lots of sweet ripe blackberry in the aftertaste. The wine has a modest complexity. While it has a New World Shiraz typicality, it is not a fruit bomb but feels like it lacks something. A pronounced tannins structure would have definitely made this wine more interesting.  (86-87/100)

After about 45 min in the decanter we poured the BV. BV is Enira’s garage wine. A blend of equal parts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Shiraz and Petit Verdot, aged for 18 months in new French oak. They usually use the best parcels of  grapes to produce this wine in limited quantities. According to Marc, BV 2008 is better than the 2007. Will have to see it when the wine will be released.

BV by Enira 2007

Deep, almost opaque dark red purple color. A rich and developing nose, a bit oaky, with distinguishable aromas of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Petit Verdot: a touch of cedar, thick layers of spices and fruits: black pepper, ginger bread, blackberry, black currant, black cherry, plum and a touch of mint. The Merlot is really muted at this stage. Opulent in the mouth, with a silky texture, densely structured on the palate with lots of spices, sweet ripe fruit, lovely tannin integration and a long finish with a minty character that gives freshness and lifts up this heavy weight wine. Dense, long and interesting. 14.6% alc (92-93/100)

It is always nice to taste the wine together with its maker.

Great lunch and an exciting new wine project in Bucharest

interesting wine from Switzerland – 1996 Dole Cave de l’Angelus

Last SAT, together with my wife, we spent a great time with Oliver and Raluca Bauer. They came to Bucharest for the weekend to present their wines from Crama Stirbey/Stirbey winery during a couple of tastings organized in the Old Center. They were finally not in a hurry in the city so we had the chance to spend a little bit more time together, to have a longer lunch and enjoy some wines.

This was a great opportunity to find out more about an existing project that Oliver wants to start developing in Bucharest as well. During the last years he organized a few thematic tasting events with older vintages or harder to find wines in Sibiu. Usually the each event brings together 12-15 people to taste f.e. 10 to 30 years old wines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, Spain, Germany, Austria or other countries. The advantages of such a tasting are the costs: one can spend 30-50 EUR for an evening and taste multiple interesting wines with other wine lovers and exchange impressions and opinions. By splitting the cost among the group members the financial burden is easier to handle. There can be 8-12 different wines tasted (if wanted also more), depending on the number of participants and the amount agreed to be spent.

We already visited a couple of restaurants to choose the future location for the event. The first event is planned to take place in the spring of 2011. Any person interested to attend the wine tasting events in Bucharest can leave a message to oliver.bauer@cellartales.com or raluca.bauer@cellartales.com and as soon as the details(cost, location, wines) are established we will be informed. For now I would suggest the first event to be themed: old Bordeaux or old Burgundy. Other proposals are of course welcomed as well.

As we were all wine lovers, we couldn’t have lunch only talking about wine and without actually drinking some. So here are the wines tasted in the order we did.

starting wines

2009 Biblia Chora

A wine from Thassos, Greece. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtiko with 12.5% alcohol.

The wine has a clear yellow greenish color. The nose is very fresh with plenty of yellow flowers and fruity aromas. In the mouth the wine is off dry, the residual sugar combined with a lifting acidity makes the wine round and fresh, with flavors of acacia, elder, ripe pear, apple and grapefruit finishing with a beautiful medium fruity aftertaste. Very good+

2006 Trapiche Single Vineyard Adriana Venturin

100% Malbec aged 18 months in new French oak

The wine has a deep purple almost black color. The nose is sweet, oaky, with super ripe dark fruits, blueberry and black cherry, coconut and a hint of minerality. In the mouth the wine is full body, almost meaty, with sweet tannins, toasty flavors, coffee and plenty of almost over ripe dark fruits, the plum is the most noticeable. The wine contains extremely well the 14.5% alcohol.The wine finishes with sweet fruit and a long aftertaste. This wine is a better pairing for dessert than for a steak. A very New World wine and it is pretty tough having more than one glass of this wine. A little bit too much at the time. Very good+

1996 Dole Cave de l’Angelus

This is a wine from Valais AOC, Switzerland. Dole is the generic name for a blend of predominantly Pinot noir with Gamay from this region.

The wine has a ruby red color with brick tones on the rim. It has the nose of a nicely aged Pinot, with some barnyard, a little bit gamey, some stinky cheese, all mixed with pure strawberry liquor. A really nice nose as weird as it may sound. In the mouth the wine is youthful, vibrant, with medium body, nice acidity, beautiful sweet fruit and earthy, meaty tones. There is a medium aftertaste in this tasty aged wine that goes so well with food. Excellent wine.

pasta with shrimps and zucchini

I enjoyed this wine a lot with a dish of freshly made pasta with shrimps and zucchini. The wine went very well, probably better, with Escargots Bourguignon as Oliver tried.

Escargots Bourguignon

2005 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva

After the 1996 Dole the 2005 Antinori Chianti did not go very well. However the wine gained a new dimension that I did not feel it previously: a clear aroma of barnyard. It was very interesting to compare the mature wine with the younger one. The 1996 Dole developed beautiful complex aromas that made it hard to beat. Still, the Riserva was a Very good to Very good+ wine.

Oliver and Raluca Bauer

We enjoyed the company of Raluca and Oliver a lot and we are certainly looking forward to meet them again soon. Also on a positive note for Crama Stirbey and a negative note for us, the consumers, it seems that all of their remaining whites are sold out. There is however the 2007 Genius Loci Feteasca Regala soon to be launched, so there is still hope.

love is in the air

The better news is that Oliver characterized the new 2010s as German like wines: low alcohol, high acidity and plenty of character. I am certainly looking forward to try their new 2010s next year.

Thanks for reading!

A few wines with friends

Last SAT I got together with some good friends at the cozy Escargot bistro. What started as a calm reunion ended up as a pretty entertaining party with plenty of good wines and tasty food. The wines were served in a descending order by vintage. Here are the tasting notes.

2010 Simonsig Chenin Blanc

This wine has a very good QPR. For about 7-9 EUR per bottle, the wine is amazingly good. The wine has a pale yellow lemon color. The nose is very fresh with plenty of floral aromas, lemon zest and green apples. In the mouth the wine is off dry with a very nice balance, nice freshness, good acidity, has a medium body and good concentration with pleasant aromas of citric fruits, green apples, white and yellow flowers. A medium aftertaste makes this wine a killer for the price it sells for. Very good+ and everybody loved it.

2007 Trapiche Single Vineyard Vina Domingo Faustino Sarmiento

Coming from the Single Vineyard collection chosen by Trapiche each year from their top 3 producers, this young 100% Malbec spent 18 months in new French oak. I did write tasting notes about the other 2 bottles of the 2007 vintage here: 2007 Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Vina Fausto Orellana de Escobar and 2007 Trapiche Single Vineyard Vina Adolfo Ahumada.

The Domingo Sarmiento has a dark purple color. The nose shows aromas of sweet caramel, mocha, a lactic note from the oak, cream and cinnamon. In the mouth the wine is full body with lavish aromas of red and small dark fruits, mocha, sweet tannins and a round mouth-feel. The wine has a pleasant finish with a fruity long aftertaste. Very good+ wine on its way to become Excellent with more aging in the bottle. The wine comes from yields of about 7000-8000 kilos per ha.

2006 Trapiche Single Vineyard Vina Federico Villafane

100% Malbec from yields of about 3500 kilos per ha aged for 18 months in new French oak. The wine has a darker opaque purple color. Last time I drank this wine was about 16 months ago and there is significant improvement in here. The wine has a very interesting nose, more evolved with good balance of the oak, plenty of dark berries, tobacco, plum, with slight hints of chocolate and coffee, really balanced. In the mouth the wine is round, full body with plenty of concentration and thick layers of red fruits, mocha, caramel, with elegant, velvety but powerful tannins, really polished. A long aftertaste makes this wine a beautiful example of a high quality Argentinian Malbec. Excellent+

2005 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva

This is one of my favorite wines for under 25 EUR with an amazing QPR.  The wine has a dark red/purple opaque color. The nose is complex with dark ripe sour cherry, cassis, hints of oak, earth, dark chocolate and spices, very nicely balanced. Everything is dark about the nose and very intriguing. In the mouth the wine is full body with lots of dark fruits, black currant, dark chocolate, very Bordeaux style, black pepper and finishes in a medium plus aftertaste with a pleasant bitterness from dark chocolate and tea leaves. Always an Excellent wine.

2005 Chateau Puech Haut Tete de Belier rouge from a Magnum

This was the Wine of the night for me. A blend of 75% Syrah, 15% Grenache and 10% Mourvedre aged for 18 months in French barrels coming from Languedoc. Gerard Bru, the owner of Chateau Puech Haut, works with Michell Rolland and Philippe Cambie as consultants. Chateau Puech Haut provided the wines in Magnums for the 2008 Cannes festival. In the past I tasted the 2004 Chateau Puech Haut Tete de Belier rouge.

The 2005 Tete de Belier has an opaque dark red color. The wine has a very complex nose, a mix of small ripe red and dark berries with earthy, toasty and spicy flavors. In the mouth the wine is very concentrated, full body, with plenty of glycerin, spicy, ripe pure red fruits with tobacco and earthy tones, polished and firm tannins, but everything in a perfect balance. The finish is long and spicy on this big wine. Exceptional bottle of wine. The 2005 Tete de Belier is a better, more focused and concentrated wine than the 2004.

Thanks for reading!

Memories from Greece

My recent vacation to Greece gave me the possibility to eat lots of sea food and also try some very interesting Greek wines. I haven’t tasted any remarkable Greek red wine so far, however the whites are really interesting and one was really excellent.

I visited Thassos this year and last year as well, a place I always find lovely, with warm people, amazingly clear blue greenish sea and really decent prices. We had a memorable dinner one night at Taverna Mouses serving a fresh 3 kilo white snapper that we ordered a day in advance, grilled slowly for 1 h and served with a sauce of olive oil and lemon.

A really tasty meal and enough to do an over dose of fish for 4 persons easily, at least that’s what we did.

During my vacation, I tried about 6-7 different Greek wines and what I find common to their whites is the pleasant high acidity, freshness and the nice floral flavors they have. There are three whites that I particularly liked.

2009 Ktima Biblia Chora

Price: 10-11.5 EUR

This is a well known wine, very appreciated by the Greeks, a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and the local grape Assyrtiko. The wine has a pale greenish yellow color. The nose is fresh with huge floral flavors of elder and acacia, with green apple, lime and herbal tones on the background. In the mouth this wine is fresh and vibrant, with a high acidity, a very nice concentration, with the same floral aromas as in the nose, finishing with a beautiful medium plus aftertaste. Excellent wine and perfect match for the big fish.

2009 Techni Alipias

Price: about 10-12 EUR

Also a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Assyrtiko. The wine has a pale yellow lime color with strong floral and citric aromas on the nose. In the mouth the wine is a bit thinner than the Biblia Chora, but still fresh, with a vibrant acidity and nice floral, mineral and citric aromas. The finish is fresh with a medium aftertaste.  Very good-

Had this wine after an Argentinian 2008 Fantasia Torrontes from Mauricio Lorca and perhaps that’s why it felt less concentrated.

2009 Chateau Kostas Lazaridi Amethystos white

Price: 12-14 EUR

A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Assyrtiko with a very nice label on the bottle. The wine has a soft yellow-green color, good transparency and fruity aromas of peaches and exotic fruits over a floral background. Nice acidity, good concentration and medium aftertaste make the wine another perfect pairing for sea food. Very good-

Had this wine together with the 2007 Reserve de Gassac from Mas de Daumas Gassac which has a better length and concentration.

The unpleasant part of a vacation are the extra kilos gained over a short period of time. But no worries, a few weeks at the gym will solve it.

Thanks for reading!

Trapiche Broquel and Davino Domaine Ceptura blanc

I received these two Argentinian wines for tasting from Cramele Halewood, the importer of Trapiche to Romania. The Broquel wines have a price of around 10 EUR per bottle both for the white as the red. Torrontes is poised to be, just like the Malbec is for the reds, the flagship white wine of Argentina. I like this grape variety for its rich aromatics, its good structure and usually is inexpensive.

Trapiche Broquel Torrontes 2009

The wine has a deep yellow lemon color. The wine has very nice floral and fruity aromatics on the nose with hints of litchi, roses and ripe yellow fruits. In the mouth, the wine is medium body with a good depth,  pleasant acidity and flavors of ripe yellow fruits, finishing with a discreet sensation of sweetness. A very pleasant and fresh wine for the  fish or white meat dishes. Good+

Davino Domaine Ceptura Blanc 2009

The wine has a clear yellow lemon color. The nose is fresh with strong aromas of acacia and elder. In the mouth the wine starts with an immediate off dry sensation, a higher acidity than the Torrontes that makes it vibrant, fresh and almost reminding of a Frizzante. Notes of white and yellow flowers, ripe apples and pears are making the taste of this crispy medium body wine that finishes fresh with a medium aftertaste. Good+ to Very good. The price is around 18 EUR in wine shops.

Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2008

The wine has a dark red-purple color. The wine is very fruit forward with a creamy sweet mix of different ripe dark berries on the nose. In the mouth this medium body wine shows flavors of blackberry and black cherry, with a pleasant mouth feel and a short to medium finish. Good+. This is not a fancy wine but a good value one that should be a good pairing to any regular barbecue.

If you get to taste any of these wines please leave a comment with your impressions.

Thanks for reading!

Nachbil Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 and Lorca Fantasia Torrontes 2008

I love a quiet SUNDAY morning with hot coffee and without the rush of reaching the office by a fixed hour, usually very early. I like to spend quality time with my better half planning the new refurbishment of the house and trying to figure out how to find a good and reliable working team for that. I think that is as easy and possible as finding a free parking place in Piata Romana at noon: it is really about one’s luck. This SUN we invited over our friends Crina and Catalin for a group cooking session. The menu was very simple and easy to make: grilled chicken stuffed with orange, asparagus and mash potatoes. I am sharing the menu with you  not because is something fancy, but to give you an idea of why I chose the  wines we had: a white Torrontes from Argentina and a red Romanian Cabernet Sauvignon.

Torrontes became the emblematic white wine of Argentina. I believe Argentina is the only country to produce it and therefore it is considered a wholly Argentine variety. One variety that is inexpensive and delivers great pleasure.

Lorca Fantasia Torrontes 2008

This bottle of wine was 8€. The bottle represents the entry level from Mauricio Lorca bodega. He is chief winemaker at Enrique Foster and formerly of Chilean-owned giant Finca La Celia, Catena, and Luigi Bosca. He creates his own wines using grapes from high-altitude vineyards in Vistaflores, Uco Valley.

This wine has a clear medium lemon color. The nose is clean, youthful, with medium intensity of peach, flowers and orange citrus fruit. It has a beautiful structure on the palate, a very pleasant acidity, lots of fruit and floral flavors, mangoes, rose petals, plenty of body for a wine with such delicate aromas and flavors. The wine is quite dry even if it leaves the impression of some sweetness on the finish. Good.

I read a very interesting article this morning published by Financial Times-FT.com wrote by the famous Jancis Robinson on Hungarian wines. It seems that “Hungarians are so proud of their viticultural heritage that they are prepared to pay high prices for their best and/or most famous wines, which tends to make them seem overpriced outside Hungary. The same phenomenon curbs exports of the new generation of much-improved wines from countries such as Greece, Turkey, Israel and Mexico – and even makes the top wines of Spain difficult to sell abroad.”. Full article here.

I believe the same applies to Romanian producers and their wines. It is the case for the red wine we had from Nachbil as our second choice. I tasted several wines from this producer last year: Shiraz 2003, a nice complex wine, Chardonnay 2003 very similar to a good Chablis from Burgundy. Shiraz 2004 and 2005 were big disappointments with very light aromas and pretty much no aftertaste.

Nachbil Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

The wine has a pale clear red color. I decanted this wine for about 1 h. The nose reveals aromas of red cherries, smoke and tobacco. Unfortunately they are overpowered by alcohol. In the mouth the wine has a light to medium body, medium acidity, showing discreet notes of blackcurrant, violets and black cherry. The wine finishes with light aromas of blackcurrant and some slight bitterness in a short aftertaste.  I find this wine poor and overpriced,considering the 60 RON price. For the same price Hyperion 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon is a serious competitor.

Dear reader,  I’ll finish my post leaving you with a question. If you can spare a few moments of your browsing time please write a comment, you don’t need to use professional words, and share your experience:

–          Have you had Torrontes so far and how did you like it ?

Thanks for reading…

2007 Trapiche Single Vineyard, 2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir and three Romanian whites

After a busy week at work I had a lovely FRI dinner with our friends Calin, Anne, Razvan and my better half, Andreea. Food was very good, company amazing and the wines pretty decent. We had 2 red wines and 3 whites. Here they are:

2007 Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Vina Fausto Orellana de Escobar

As I wrote in an older post dedicated to another one of the three 2007 Single Vineyard bottles, each year Trapiche chooses the three best producers of Malbec of the vintage and releases them in a special wooden case with large and heavy bottle format. I already had the chance to taste Vina Adolfo Ahumada 2007 and I didn’t like it, as it had too much oak and had a very short aftertaste. The Fausto Orellana de Escobar is a totally different story. This Vina was included in 2005 Trapiche SV selection and I remember the wine having all the ingredients of an excellent bottle of Malbec. The 2007, even though is young, already impresses. The wine has a red purple color. The nose has strong mineral characters: graphite and ink., floral with violets and also black pepper. There is a very discreet hint of oak, but it just gives the wine more complexity. In the mouth the wine is concentrated with full body,  sour cherries, blackberries and blackcurrant, has a nice acidity to balance the 14.5% alc and again a very nice hint of oak that balances all these components in a harmonious way.  The aftertaste is medium plus. One thing that is disturbing about this wine is a hint of heat you can feel on the back end. I think that in 8-12 months the alcohol will integrate well creating an excellent bottle of Malbec.

2006 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is the Noble red grape of Burgundy, capable of ripening in a cooler climate, which Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot will not reliably do. It is unpredictable and difficult both to grow and to vinify, but results in some of the finest reds in the world. Pinot Noir has found its next best place to grow and provide excellent wines in Oregon, in USA.

Our 2006 Drouhin Pinot Noir was decanted for 1 h and drank over 1h. I have to confess the wine showed better after 2 h. The color was a medium ruby red. The nose was initially dominated by red fruits: black and red cherries,raspberries all covered by a nice lactic note and by alcohol. As the wine was breathing in the decanter more flavors emerged: mushrooms, spices, herbs; the sensation of alcohol vanished after 2 h. In the mouth the wine was medium plus body, nice acidity, good structure, flavors of raspberry, black cherry, a bit of earth. Finish is delicate, medium plus, with red fruit notes and a nice tannic structure. The aftertaste changed also with time towards spices and earth. Again some heat was present on the back end. I think this wine should be decanted for at least 2-3 h before poured in the glass or give it some years in the cellar to let it balance the 14.5% alcohol it has.

Poesie di Raffaello Cuvee Blanc

A blend of 4  grapes if I am not mistaking. The wine has a clear lemon green color. The nose is full of floral notes. In the mouth the wine is off dry, light body, has a high acidity with bright fruits and floral notes. The aftertaste is short. I liked the high acidity of the wine but I did not like the notes in the aftertaste.

2007 Origini Tamaioasa Romaneasca Budureasa semi sweet

Color was clear lemon. Nose full of peaches and white flowers(shock). In the mouth the wine has nice acidity that doesn’t make the wine flabby, nice body, peaches and more flowers. The aftertaste is short-medium.  Good wine for dessert.

Livia Sarba Cotesti

Color lemon green, watery-white intensity. Nose is floral with mineral notes. Good acidity, youthfull, floral, off dry, light body, short finish. Not a fan of this wine.

Thanks for reading...

Trapiche Malbec Single Vineyard Vina Adolfo Ahumada 2007

This is one of the three bottles released by Trapiche in 2007 as a part of the Single Vineyard collection.  The Single Vineyard is Trapiche’s flagship selection of the best three Malbecs produced each vintage from the areas they harvest.  I have tasted their 2004, 2005 and 2006 releases so my expectations were high as all those three vintages produced delicious wines.Each of the three wines from the Single Vineyard collection spends 18 months in new French oak.

The Vina Adolfo Ahumada 2007 was decanted for 40 min which was too short unfortunately.

The color is dark red with purple hues. The nose is youthful, oaky with coconut, vanilla, ripe blackberry, chocolate, dried plums, sandalwood and tobacco.  In the mouth the wine is medium plus body, with sweet vanilla, ripe tannins, and plenty of ripe almost candy like spicy red and black cherries. The wine finishes sweet with a medium aftertaste. The wine is still very young at this stage but further bottle aging will bring balance and harmony to this 100% Argentinian Malbec. Still a nice and approachable New World wine already. It is recommended to decant the wine at least 2 hours prior to serving.

Thanks for reading!