Anunt Degustare – Bordeaux & Chateauneuf Soiree

Incepem noul sezon al degustarilor cu o clasica comparatie a catorva superlative din doua zone celebre ale lumii vinului frantuzesc: Bordeaux si Chateauneuf du Pape. Am ales etichete foarte bune, foarte bine sau maxim cotate de catre profesionisti si, pentru o experienta completa, din vintage-uri variate.

2006 Weingut Wittmann Westhofen ‘S’ Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germania (88 pct)
1996 Chateau Sociando-Mallet, Haut-Medoc, Franta (91 pct)
1995 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Franta (95 pct RP)
2010 Chateau Leoville Barton, Saint-Julien, Franta (100 pct WE)
2006 Chateau Pape Clement, Pessac-Leognan, Franta (95 pct RP)
2010 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee Reservee, Rhone, Franta
(98 pct RP)
2006 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, Franta (93 pct WE)
1999 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Rhone, Franta (94 pct WF)

Ne intalnim joi, 23 februarie, de la 19:30, la Seva Cuisine (Lakeview Building, Barbu Vacarescu 301 – 310).

Sunt 12 locuri disponibile si fiecare costa 390 de lei (vinurile, o gustare si apa). Pentru confirmarea rezervarii este necesara plata in avans. Ma puteti contacta pe cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau la telefon 0723 240 102.

Dinner with Bouchard, Pegau, Billecart-Salmon, Cristal and more

A friend from abroad was in town this week so we ended up having dinner at a favorite for me now: La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge. As we both fancy wine, there was a good line-up prepared and as usual there were initially planned 3 bottles, but eventually we ended up having more between our small group of 4.

Started the night with this 2003 Bouchard Vigne de l’Enfant Jesus that was popped and poured and barely had time to breath over the 1 h it lasted. This is a most unusual Pinot Noir in the sense that it has the mark of the hot 2003 vintage with ripe fruit and medium to low acidity. The color is deep ruby red. Nose is already expressive and developed well into a complex mix of sweet blue and red fruit, Asian spices and some discreet shades of undergrowth, keeping fresh. It has a denser than you might expect mouth feel, with a fleshy texture where velvety and smooth tannin mixes well with lavish layers of ripe red fruit and tea leaves, preserving balance and freshness. Long finish, aromatic tea leaves and red fruit jam. Really enjoyed it. (94/100)

A bottle of 2010 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape was opened and left to breath since lunch time so it had about 8 h to aerate. Nose was interesting as usual but the mouth feel was bad. There was just too much VA in it to be able to enjoy it. Certainly not the wine that I had several months ago. (Not rated)

Decided to shift palates to more tension and bubbles so a 1999 Champagne Billecart-Salmon Cuvee Nicolas Francois Billecart was served. This is a wine that I had several times already this year and I like it more and more. It feels the wine is in the right spot today and should be holding well for several more years, but why wait when it is so good. It’s got a rich mousse with plenty of tiny bubbles and a nose that sports intense aromas of smoky citrus fruit, caramel and biscuit. Very tense and razor sharp acidity after the reds, with smoky seashell and bright grapefruit palate. Long. (93-94/100)

Decided to stay on a similar note with high acidity and citrus fruit so a 2013 Christian Moreau Chablis Grand Cru Valmur was opened and decanted. Yes decanted. This has lots of chalky minerality, citrus fruit and Granny smith apple aromas. Mouth watering acidity, it combines very well ripe citrus fruit, wet stone minerals with riper flavors of grapefruit and chamomile. Medium plus long finish, lively citrus fruit. (92/100)

When in doubt and want some tenser and riper refreshment go for a rose sparkling, preferably a Vintage. Champagne Bollinger La Grande Annee Rose 2004 is a Champagne for the long run and mostly a keeper. Some Champagne should be decanted. We did not do it, but I would recommend it. Light coppery color with small and rich bubble. Complex from the beginning it just got better in the glass in time. Intense and fresh nose filled with pink grapefruit skin, small red berries, citrus fruit and minerals. Very tense on the palate, it feels it has a Baroque type of structure of tannin and acidity that still hides its aromatic layers. Good potential here. (94/100)

Last wine of the night was Champagne Cristal 2007. This punches the nose with smoky aromas of seashell, dried meat and citrus fruit. Razor sharp acidity at this stage, it needs time in the glass to get softer to reveal lively lemons, slate minerals and smoke, with a clean and sharp focus. Medium plus long finish, very fresh and a weightless mouth feel that makes it so easy to drink. (94/100)

Ended the evening quite late and had a hard time finding a cab to get home. That was a first and very unpleasant to stand up in the cold street waiting for a taxi to take my order.

8 great wines

Had dinner with friends last night at restaurant Joseph where I always return with great pleasure, especially with the same people from last evening. Our group of 10 had many persons from the West part of the country that were just visiting Bucharest. I was asked to make the wine selection for the night, which I did, and I proposed to serve them blind. My initiative was warmly welcomed so preparations had to be done: put foil on all bottles in a back room in the restaurant before all guests arrived.

What is nice about blind tastings is that it really gives a feeling of humbleness as you are put to test your knowledge and face your ego, but on the other hand it is good that is pushes one to pay attention to the wine, considerably more than if you would be just drinking the wine for dinner knowing what you taste. Unfortunately for me, I was the only one that knew what was in the glass. Each wine was revealed as it was served after discussions and last drops were poured. You would want to give everybody the chance to re-taste the wine as much as they wanted as long as it still was something left in the bottle. Then came the reckoning. And it came hard in a few cases.

There was a wine-food pairing made based on my vague inputs but very well mastered by one of the participants, Laci, and executed by chef Joseph Hadad.

First wine was Champagne Egly-Ouriet VP Grand Cru from a producer I adore. Some people said possibly Cava, some said definitely Champagne. Made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from Grand Cru parcels, this is kept for 78 months on the lees, and this bottle was disgorged January 2015. Medium yellow color it was served from white wine glasses that did not help the bubbles stay. Intense aromatics of citrus fruit, marzipan and yeast, it explodes in the mouth with youthfulness, tannin, citrus fruits and great acidity. Very tense, but well focused and robust. (94/100)

First white wine was a sudden addition and not put on the initial list. Some were mocking and said Liliac Sauv Blanc. It was not but we had fun. It means Liliac is doing a great marketing job if people talk about it.

2014 Gaia Thalassitis is a 100% Assyrtiko from Santorini, Greece that exudes freshness. Very pale yellow color, the nose is a mix of lemons, smoke and schist. Sharp acidity and really bone dry, medium plus bodied, with chalky minerality finish. Very interesting wine and clear value for its price. (89/100)

Next white wine was on the menu and it was announced as a barrel aged wine. I informed that I was interested only for the region, country or grape variety. For each wine I informed if it was a single variety or a blend.

Just 2 barrels of Puligny-Montrached 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’ are produced by Henri Prudhon every year, which is usually aged 15 to 18 months in old wood. The 2010 Henri Prudhon Puligny-Montrached 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’ is a wine that needs to be served closer to 16 degrees than cold in order to open up and stir your senses. Medium yellow color it has a shy nose initially that does not really change much during the night. However the taste reveals its true essence and origin, through its vibrant stone fruit, tropical fruits and exotic oak flavors. Medium plus long, fresh and not entirely open yet. (91/100)

From all the wines I prepared for dinner, the first red of the night was the one I was eager to get reactions from. 2007 Stirbey Novac Art Deco was praised as an International wine. Great job Oliver Bauer !

Some people ventured to order 4 cases each of this wine if it was Romanian (mocking was part of the game this evening). Bottom line: it stood great next to the other red wines. Color was medium ruby color. Nose is quite intense with mature red fruit, spices and herbs, palate is supple, mellow tannin, bright acidity, and good lingering intensity. It is a wine of charm and elegance. A smart buy. (91/100)

Novac was served back to back with 2011 Robert Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges ‘Les Roncieres’, a Pinot Noir from 52 years old vines. Color is almost opaque ruby red. Nose has more intensity with fresh red cherry and red currant, stems and black tea. Fuller palate, smooth tannin, intense red cherry fruit, herbs and spices, medium finish. There was one lady that chose it as the Wine of the night and I can understand why: it is just flowing well in the mouth with its weightlessness. (92/100)

I have to point that pairing with beef tartar (with roasted pine seeds and lemon confit) is a brilliant match both for Novac and Pinot Noir. It leaves the refined aromas of these 2 delicate varietals to take center stage. One person said Novac in spite of others reluctance to that. More interesting some people said Merlot for Chevillon Nuits Saint Georges. Back to school !

Next wine is an absolute stunning discovery for me. If all Crianza ages like this, I am sucker for it. Many people said 7-8 years old Bordeaux. We had Spain nominated by the same person that confidently stated Merlot for Nuits Saint Georges, after I mentioned it is a single variety. So I have to give him some credit back. 

2001 Pesquera Crianza from Alejandro Fernandez is a symphony in the glass. For me it is the epitome of a well maturing wine that has everything you would want and one would expect: fresh red fruit, smoke, spices and beginning to show complex tertiary aromas of saddle leather and tobacco. Supple but full palate, fresh, open and so expressive on the taste, with a medium plus finish that lingers well. A total pleasure to drink today, and no worries to keep it for another 5 years at least. (93/100)

2010 Domaine du Pegau ‘Cuvee Reservee’ Chateauneuf du pape was recognized as a Chateauneuf du pape, and even as a Pegau. Kudos to those people that identify it like that. I opened this wine 14 hours in advance at home and double decanted it early in the morning. It never felt harder to restrain myself from tasting a wine as it happen at 8:00 in the morning.

Its aromas are intoxicating. Very complex and profound nose where ripe red and black fruits meet Pegau funk, animal fur, olive tapenade and Asian spices. Full, intense and powerful on the palate, it has layers of flavors with a distinct savoury long and lingering finish, and a massive structure of polished tannin. (96/100)

Pairing with Osso Buco veal tajines with vegetables root, mashed potatoes and roasted garlic is a match made in haven.

2012 Aalto PS is a killer wine. It comes from 60-100 years old vines of Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero and it is aged in new French Allier oak for 24 months. An opaque dark red garnet color. Very intense and complex aromas of ripe and over ripe black fruit mixed with chocolate, spices and vanilla change with time into prunes, rum and sour cherries, a profile closer to an Amarone. Very dense and powerful mouth, high tannin that is well polished and smooth, animating these thick layers of ripe blackberries, cranberries and chocolate flakes. Long and intense finish. Massively structured wine that seems to posses all the attributes to become great. (95/100)

Black Angus rib steak was the perfect dish to accompany this thick and concentrated Tempranillo: bold flavors on both sides.

Dessert was the culminating dish of a lovely dinner. And what a dessert.

What did we learn: blind tastings can be very animated, stir interesting discussions and can move the focus of other conversations back to wines; it is also a great way to push one to think and analyze wine and become better at tasting it. After all, competitiveness is something we all have it in us, we just have to embrace it.

 

Dinner at Joseph (2) with great wines

I had a new lovely dinner at Joseph last MON May 18 with an intimate group of friends. It was planned in advance so we had an initial list of 3 wines and a food tasting menu to go with it. As before, that initial list of 3 wines got up to 5 by the end. Food was top again here.

Food tasting menu was: Calamari a la plancha, Semi-row salmon sashimi, Lentil risotto with red wild shrimps, French veal chops and Chocolate bar. The wines were upscale so expectation were naturally high and in my opinion they fully delivered, or at least most of them.

2013 Aile d’Argent produced by Chateau Mouton Rothschild is made from a small parcel of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle planted in 1980, it is fermented in 100% new oak barrels and half of it matures in the same barrels for some months. In a few words this wine is the epitome of class and opulence, just like its producer. The nose is an intense and complex kaleidoscope of aromas of mango, peach, smoke, vanilla bar and citrus essence. Opulent and almost luscious palate, but there is enough vibrant acidity to energize the thick and oily texture and enhance the tropical fruits, vanilla and citrus flavors. Long and vibrant finish, where mango and tangerine flavors are lingering. I just love this wine. (94-95/100)

different interpretation of Calamari a la plancha

Semi-row salmon sashimi

Aile d’Argent was meant to pair with both first two courses but it quickly evaporated from the bottle by the end of the first course.

2010 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru made by Domaine de Lambrays is on a similar line with the 2012 I had at the same location on April 28: a very high quality Pinot Noir, however the two vintages are well reflected into the wines. While 2012 is already open and expressive on the palate, 2010 is more intense and needs to be left alone in the bottle for a few more years. Color is a medium ruby red. The nose already shows high class and it is developing into pure and clean aromas of strawberries, red cherries, fresh green tea leaves, potpourri and chocolate. On the palate the wine is more closed than the 2012, but there is so much structure and intensity in it that points to a long aging potential. I believe in 10 years this will be a masterpiece. (95/100)

Lentil risotto with red wild shrimps

Not necessarily the ideal pairing with Lentil risotto. I believe the wine needs a more neutral pairing.

2007 Domaine de la Janasse ‘Cuvee Chaupin’ Chateauneuf du pape was open 2 h in advance and decanted for 1 h. This is a show off wine. No wonder some of the participants of our intimate gathering preferred it. The color is deep red garnet and opaque. It has the aromatic profile of an Amarone, even the 15.5% alcohol puts it in the same league. The nose is very intense and ripe. The aromas of black sour cherries, rum, chocolate, Provencal herbs and licorice are strong. Opulent and lush palate, richly textured and concentrated, tannins are smooth. The finish is long but the wine is missing freshness to balance all this dense and thick texture. (93-94/100)

French veal chops

2002 Burge Family G3 is a Grenache-Syrah-Mourvedre blend from Australia. It has the same 15.5% alcohol but there is freshness. It is the second time I am having this in the last 4-5 months and it continues to impress me. It is one of the most interesting Australian wines I tasted and I would put it in the country’s best league. Very dense, highly textured, similar to an Amarone but so different and so fresh compared to ‘Cuvee Chaupin’ 2007. It combines sweet red and black fruits with chocolate, leather, game and spices. A wine that entered its plateau of maturity, but really no rush to consume it. It has at least another 5-8 years ahead. (94/100)

Paired very well with Chocolate bar dessert

Champagne Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV was the wine to close the night. Its clean citrus fruit and green apple acidity cleansed the palate after such a delightful 4 h dinner.

Dinner at Joseph’s

I attended a private dinner this week with a relatively small group of friends at one of Bucharest’s best restaurants owned by Joseph Hadad. It was a an event well prepared in advance with a clear list of wines selected by me and the food pairing selected by a friend. As a first time visit to this restaurant the food was excellent and the pairing happily chosen. Food is really at the highest level. There were 7 wines proposed initially but we ended up with 11 eventually.

Champagne Billercart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV was offered as a welcome drink. I like the soft notes of citrus fruit, yeast, its rich and lively palate. (91/100)

First course: Semi-row salmon sashimi, shiitake mushrooms wrapped in seaweed tempura, ginger vinaigrette, coriander, tapioca, mango and maple syrup was a match for 2012 Von Winning Kalkofen GG. The wine has a sweet exotic nose of high intensity, where peach, apricot, pear and pineapple mingle together with discreet shades of kerosene. Lively and dry on the palate, its racy acidity suggests a bit of patience until next bottle will be open. Very intense and refreshing. (92/100)

Sauted Saint Jacques scallops, celery mousse flavored with truffle oil, tomato tartar, chives, smoked duck breast were served next to a great Pinot Noir: 2012 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru. This is a 7-8 ha Grand Cru monopole owned since 2013 by the famous LVMH group so prices are expected to soar. There is a 60 m altitude difference between the start and the end of this vineyard so there are significant differences between the style of each parcel of vines, differences that actually build the complexity in this wine. The nose is developed and intense, but there is so much elegance and class in it. Fresh raspberry and cherry fruit, tea leaves and subdued undergrowth all make a profound nose. Silky smooth on the palate, with rich red fruit, coffee and savoury palate, there is depth and elegance. Very long finish that lingers. For me it was the wine of the night (95/100). Scallops actually enhanced the fruitiness and somehow gave it even more depth and complexity.

We also tasted an interesting Pinot Noir from Dao, Portugal, a pure un-oaked and unfiltered wine: Quinta de Bella – Dom Bella Pinot Noir 2012 that shows a warmer profile due to its origin, dominated by ripe cherry and sour cherry fruit.

From there on my menu was slightly different than the others as I chose to replace all meat with different fish.

Three wines were served with the next dish. 2011 Carmen Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile that stays true to its provenance and welcomes you with the unmistakable aromas of very ripe black fruit and mint into a very forward style (87- 88/100). It was an abrupt fell from the heavenly Clos des Lambrays.

2012 Quinta do Vale Meao was served initially a bit too warm. There is exuberance of ripe fruit and cream on the nose with shades of hot stones and tar, chocolate flakes, beef blood and rum. It is rich and lush on the palate with layers and layers of ripe fruits but well balanced by smooth tannins and acidity. Medium to long bitter-sweet dark chocolate and black fruit liqueur finish. (91-92/100)

Then came the favorite wine for a big portion of the participants: 2008 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou from a classic vintage. There is sheer class in this wine. Its color is red garnet and opaque. It is not very expressive on the nose for the moment, but you could recognize its Cabernet typicality. There is cassis, paprika, black currant leaf and coffee bean that shine the most today. Full and well structured on the palate, it is a massive wine. Its fine-grained tannins, its rich texture all point to a great evolution in time. Really good. (94/100)

2004 Elio Grasso Barolo ‘Ginestra Casa Mate’ came for me with a dish based on sea bass, eggplant and nuts and it worked very well. There is a lot of pleasure drinking this wine today, however it has a long life ahead. Very pure ripe cherry fruit, dry rose petals, tar and mushrooms are just some of the aromas found in the complex profile. There are firm but smooth tannins with enough fruit and texture to make it a highly pleasurable experience. (92/100)

2000 Domaine de la Mordoree ‘Cuvee de la Reine des Bois’ Chateauneuf du pape is a maturing wine today. The nose and the palate combine successfully pure sweet red Grenache fruit and spices with tertiary aromas of bacon fat, cured meat and truffles. It is intense and complex, with silky smooth tannins, savoury red fruits and spices, Provencal herbs, fresh, but it feels like it is at its peak. Long finish. (93/100)

1998 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf du pape was unfortunately corked beyond any chance of revival. Such a pity as I had high expectations to be the wine of the night.

Desserts were quite spectacular and were paired with a Martha’s Porto – Tawny 20 years. 

Last but not least there was a bottle of 2007 Chateau Musar rouge with its bretty and gamey aromas, wild red fruits and leather. Firm and structured, with grippy tannins and spicy cherry fruit. (90/100)

 

 

Chateauneuf-du-Pape wine tasting – Feb 26, 2015

Chateauneuf-du-Pape – The almost perfect wine

Did you ever wonder how a perfect wine will taste? Of course, the perfect wine for somebody can be different than the perfect wine for somebody else, but for Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate, the wine we propose now for tasting, scored almost there. He granted 99+ points (out of 100) to this Chateauneuf-du-Papes Domaine de la Mordoree La Reine de Bois from 2010.

So, we say “let’s give it a try” to see for how many people (from a maximum of 12 🙂 ) this wine is perfect. And we added several others prestigious labels from the same very famous area to compare:

• 2011 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape BLANC
• 2009 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape (95 pct.)
• 2010 La Grande Veneur ‘Les Origines’  Chateauneuf du Pape (95 pct.)
• 2005 Tardieu-Laurent ‘Cuvee Speciale’ Chateauneuf du Pape (96 pct.)
• 2006 Domaine Cristia Chateauneuf du Pape (92 pct.)
• 2006 Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Cuvee Exceptionele Chateauneuf du Pape (90 pct.)
• 2007 E. Guigal Chateauneuf du Pape (93 pct.)
• 2010 Domaine de la Mordoree La Reine de Bois Chateauneuf du Pape (99+ pct.)

As usually, the wine tasting will take place at Restaurant Dada, 94 bis Matei Voievod street (yes, I know, we need to try new places…. we are working on this) on Thursday, February 26th, at 19:30. There are 12 available sits and each one costs 250 lei which includes the wine, the water and our very enjoyable presence.

Verticala Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape ’98, ’04, ’05, ’07, ’08, ’09

Domaine du Pegau este unul dintre domeniile noastre preferate din Chateauneuf du Pape si asta datorita modului traditional de realizare a vinurilor: randamente scazute, vite vechi, strugurii culesi manual, utilizare minima a barrique-ului nou ceea ce lasa caracterul solului si al strugurilor sa domine. Strugurii provin din cele mai bune parcele din Chateuneuf du pape: Monpertuis, Rayas si La Crau (considerata o zona Grand Cru de cea mai buna calitate). Vinurile au pe langa prospetime si accesibilitate cand sunt tinere, un real potential de invechire de 20-30 de ani si chiar mai mult in anii exceptionali.

Aceste vinuri autentice obtin in fiecare an punctaje foarte mari de la marii critici internationali de vin datorita calitatii, prospetimii si personalitatii lor. Ceea ce va propunem pentru urmatoarea degustare este o verticala de 6 ani diferiti ai acestui vin pentru a observa consecventa in calitate dar si influenta fiecarui an in parte.

Iata vinurile propuse:

• 1998 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee (WS 96, CT 93)

• 2004 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee (WS 96, CT 93, ST 93)

• 2005 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee (ST 95, WS 94, CT 93)

• 2007 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee (WS 95, ST 94, CT 93)

• 2008 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee (WS 92, CT 91, ST 91)

• 2009 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee (RP 98, WS 95, WE 94, CT 94)

Degustarea va avea loc miercuri, 6 noiembrie 2013, de la ora 19:30, la restaurantul Dada (Str. Matei Voievod nr. 94bis). Sunt doar 10 locuri disponibile și fiecare costă 320 de lei, sumă care include vinurile, aperitivele și prezența noastră agreabilă.

Rezervări la +40722 141 879 (Nicușor) sau +40723 240 102 (Cosmin) sau pe email: cosmin.grozea@gmail.com si nicusor.cazan@gmail.com

O noua degustare – Chateauneuf du Pape

Romanian Wine Events si From Grapes to Wine pun de o noua degustare. Daca data trecuta ne-am desfatat cu Super Toscane, acum mergem in Sudul Ronului pentru etichete de top din Chateauneuf du Pape.

Iata si detaliile degustarii:

“La mare concurenta cu comunele bordoleze, vinurile din Chateauneuf du Pape sunt aproape in aceeasi masura cunoscute si apreciate. Si scumpe. Pentru final de iulie va propunem o degustare a catorva dintre ele, inclusiv o scurta verticala a unuia dintre cele mai bune.”

Vinurile:

   • 2003 Paul Avril Clos des Papes BLANC (CT92) 

   • 1990 E. Guigal Chateauneuf du pape (CT90) 
   • 1995 Domaine de Villeneuve Les Vieilles Vignes MAGNUM (CT92.5)

   • 1998 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” (RP 95, WE 94, WS 94, CT 92)
   • 2003 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” (WE 92, CT 90.5)
   • 2006 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” (WS 93, ST 92, CT 91, Jancis Robinson 17)

   • 2006 E. Guigal Chateauneuf du pape (ST 92, WE 90, CT 90)
   • 2006 Vieux Lazaret Cuvee Exceptionele (Gilbert & Gaillard 95)
• 2006 Domaine Charvin Chateauneuf du pape (WS 94, ST 93, CT 91)

Degustarea va avea loc miercuri, 31 iulie 2013, de la ora 19:00, la restaurantul Goccia, str George Enescu 23 Sector 1 din zona Pta Romana. Sunt 10 locuri disponibile și fiecare costă 320 de lei, sumă care include vinurile, aperitivele și prezența noastră agreabilă. Rezervări la +40 722 141 879 (Nicușor) sau +40 723 240 102 (Cosmin)“

(Video) Aventuri in lumea vinului – 15 Martie 2013

In acest episod mergem mai departe cu discutiile despre vin ca plasament financiar si dam cateva exemple punctuale despre performanta unor vinuri in ultimii trei ani.

Jurnal de degustare cu vinuri din Franta @ La Brasserie 12 Februarie 2013

Desi la distanta de doar cateva zile dupa o alta degustare avand ca tema vinurile din Franta, vinuri de care ma simt foarte apropiat ca si stil, am organizat impreuna cu Nicusor Cazan (Romanian Wine Events) un alt eveniment similar. De aceasta data am incercat sa ridicam si mai mult nivelul degustarii si calitatea vinurilor prezentate, iar ca si criterii de selectie ale vinurilor au contat pedigree-ul producatorilor, calitatea anului de recolta (am ales cei mai buni ani posibili pentru fiecare regiune aleasa in parte), dar si accesibilitatea vinurilor ca si placere oferita in prezent. Este drept ca am avut anumite rezerve vis-a-vis de vinurile din 2005 din Bordeaux datorita faptului ca anul a fost unul exceptional in aceasta regiune (ca de altfel in tot restul Frantei) si astfel aceste vinuri au un potential de invechire foarte indelungat (30-50 ani minim pentru cei mai buni producatori), astfel incat vinurile ar fi putut fi inchise si greu de descifrat astazi.

Cu majoritatea vinurilor am intrat in contact in ultimii 2-3 ani cel putin o data, cu cateva exceptii: Chateau Rieussec 1996, a Grand Cru-ului din Rheingau: Muller Catoir Grosses Gewachs 2007 si a surprizei oferite cu generozitate de catre unul dintre participanti, care a pus in joc un alt vin din Bordeaux: 2005 Chateau Lascombes Margaux, vin ce a intrat in competitie directa cu cele doua vinuri pregatite de noi din aceeasi zona.

Ceea ce este interesant de mentionat vis-a-vis de Chateau Lascombes este ca acum cativa ani a sponsorizat o competitie desfasurata sub egida Grand Jury Europeen (GJE) reunind toate vinurile celebre din Bordeaux provenite din anul 2005, ce au intrat alaturi de acest Chateau intr-o degustare in orb. Scopul urmarit a fost stabilirea unei ierarhii si pozitionarea Chateau Lascombes in acest context. In aceasta competitie au intrat vinuri celebre ca Chateau Latour, Lafite si Mouton Rothschild, degustarea fiind o orizontala a anului 2005. Chateau Lascombes s-a clasat pe locul 1 dintre cele 50 de vinuri degustate. Bineinteles ca au aparut foarte multe polemici si controverse avand in vedere cine a fost sponsorul competitiei. Aici puteti citi mai multe despre acest eveniment organizata de GJE.

In cazul nostru lucrurile au fost mai simple si nu au existat controverse, toti cei 13 participanti ai acestei cine apreciind vinurile strict din punct de vedere al placerii, fara nici o miza financiara. Locul de intalnire in aceasta seara a fost restaurantul La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge pe care l-am ales atat din punctul de vedere al calitatii superioare a mancarii si a atmosferei, dar mai ales datorita faptului ca este primul local care prezinta cea mai lunga si completa lista de vinuri din Romania, listand peste 250 de etichete diferite ce acopera, cu foarte mici exceptii, majoritatea zonelor viticole ale lumii si demonstrand astfel dorinta de a aduce un suflu nou in zona restaurantelor de top din Bucuresti. Mancarea a fost ca de obicei la cel mai inalt nivel si v-as recomand sa-l vizitati cand aveti ocazia.

Trecand peste partea de introducere, mentionez ca vinurile au fost servite in serii de cate 2 – in functie de zona de provenienta, exceptie facand seria de Bordeaux-uri (3).

Vinul care a inceput seara a fost o sampanie Vintage, un Champagne Telmont Grand Vintage 2002 (90/100) care pare sa fi pierdut din aciditatea sprintara, dar care compenseaza la capitolul aromonie, rotunjime si complexitatea. Surprinde prin aromele de alune prajite, armonios imbinate cu cele citrice si de flori albe. De asemenea dozajul isi face simtita prezenta in gust. Telmont este un producator relativ mic dupa standardele regiunii Champagne care produce deopotriva sampanii NV (Non Vintage) si Vintage. In cazul sampaniilor NV, se realizeaza fermentatie malolactica pentru a da rotunjime vinurilor, in timp ce pentru cele Vintage, Telmont a ales sa opreasca fermentatia malolactica cu scopul de a pastra prospetimea vinurilor.

Am continuat cu o sampanie roze provenind de la un producator mic, artizanal: Champagne Veuve Fourny Rose 1er Cru Vertus Brut (91/100) cu care am intrat in contact acum mai bine de un an si care m-a cucerit pe deplin in momentul in care am servit-o alaturi de carpaccio de ton. Sampania de culoare roze somon deschis, cu bule fine si dese, surprinde prin aromele intense de fructe mici rosii, drojdii dar si o tenta citrica la nivel olfactiv. In gust este mult mai cinstita, dozajul fiind minim, astfel incat senzatia simtita este de puritate a aromelor, curata si precisa ca un laser, cu senzatii minerale accentuate si chiar prezenta taninurilor. Finalul este proaspat, citric si lung.  Veuve Fourny este printre putinele case din Champagne care detine un Clos (un lot de vite de vie inconjurat de pereti din piatra, care protejeaza viile de vant si care creaza un fel de micro-climat): Notre-Dame, din care produce cuvee-ul lor de prestigiu prin fermentare si maturare in butoaie de stejar: Veuve Fourny Notre Dame.

Seria vinurilor albe linistite a pus in antiteza, cu scopul de a lasa posibilitatea oaspetilor sa aleaga stilul preferat, un vin sec (dupa standardele din Germania): Muller Catoir Grand Cru, si un vin cu ceva rest de zahar destul de ridicat: Markus Molitor Spatlese. Am servit initial 2007 Muller Catoir Breumel in den Mauern Grosses Gewachs (92/100), un vin cu o mineralitate pronuntata, ca de piatra de cremene peste care s-a turnat petrol, bine sustinuta de aromele de fructe exotice: ananas, dar si piersici si caise albe. In gust vinul are o coloana vertebrala absolut de invidiat data de aciditatea mare, care sugereaza potentialul indelungat de pastrare al vinului, dar si faptul ca l-am deschis mult prea devreme. Mult timp in postgust aciditatea iti lasa senzatia ca tocmai ai muscat dintr-o lamaie foarte coapta si-ti stimuleaza salivatia. Muller Catoir este cel mai bun producator din Rheingau, si singurul proprietar, avand monopol, al parcelei clasate Grand Cru: Breumel in den Mauern.

Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Spatlese 2010 (91-92/100) a fost de la prima inghititura ceea ce am putea denumi un “crowd pleaser”, si o zic in cel mai bun sens pentru ca nu are cum sa nu-ti placa acest vin. Nivelul scazut alcoolului, doar 7.5%,  datorat restului de zahar ramas nefermentat, si a aciditatii mari creaza un echilibru perfect. Aromele citrice se imbina perfect cu cele dulci de mango, ananas, piersica si caisa, si te cuceresc neconditionat. In gust, bogatia aromelor de fructe te dezarmeaza si te fac sa capitulezi complet in fata senzatiilor dulci si tonice oferite de aciditate. Final lung si proaspat, cu aceeasi senzatie de salivatie pronuntata in postgust. Un vin care merge de minune si alaturi de deserturi.

Seria vinurilor rosii a inceput cu cele trei vinuri din Bordeaux, ordinea servirii fiind: Ch Sociando Mallet 2005, Ch Lascombes 2005 si la final Ch Leoville Poyferre 2003.

Chateau Sociando Mallet a fost achizitionat in 1969 de actualul proprietar Jean Gautreau si detine in prezent 80 de ha, producand in jur de 500.000 de sticle anual. Este unul dintre putinele castele din Bordeaux care ofera consecventa in calitate in fiecare an si preturi mai mult decat decente. Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc 2005 (90-91/100) este un vin surprinzator de deschis si de bine evoluat la nivel olfactiv, cu un profil clasic, arome intense de mina de creion, fum, coacaze, merisor si prune uscate. Nu avem extractivitatea altor exemplare din 2005 din Bordeaux in gust, profilul vinului virand spre unul mai rustic, cu taninuri prezente si inca neimblanzite, dar cu o bogatie placuta a aromelor pe palatin. Finalul este mediu spre lung, avand o prospetime deosebita.

Chateau Lascombes Margaux 2005 (90/100) este cu siguranta un vin modern, baricat in butoaie de lemn frantuzesc nou, acest lucru fiind inca evident atat la nas cat si in gust. Culoarea lui este cea a unui vin foarte tanar, visinie inchisa chiar parand ca pastreaza inca irizatii purpurii. Vinul afiseaza o evolutie buna si intensitate a aromelor, este mai feminin in comparatie cu Sociando Mallet, mai polisat si mai rafinat, dar dozarea lemnului este inca neintegrata. Finalul este mediu spre lung, iar corpolenta il califica cu siguranta in seria anului 2005.

Chateau Leoville Poyferre St Julien 2003 este un vin pe care l-am intalnit acum 2 ani ultima oara si care mi s-a parut senzational in acel moment. Desi anul 2003 a fost torid, solurile mai racoroase din comunele St-Julien si St-Estephe si-au adus aportul si au creat cele mai reusite vinuri ale anului respectiv. Chateau Leoville Poyferre St Julien 2003 este considerat unul dintre cele mai bune vinuri ale anului in Bordeaux.

De la primul nas avem de a face cu un vin din alta clasa. Vinul a evoluat foarte bine si a devenit mai profund si mai complex decat il stiam, bogatia si intensitatea aromelor sale putand usor sa umple o camera si sa-si faca simitita prezenta de departe. Intalnim arome de mina de creion, ardei gras rosu, lichior de coacaze (cassis), ciocolata neagra si fulgi de ciocolata, iar la fiecare mirosire vinul isi dezvaluie alte fatete. In gust vinul este foarte rafinat, textura bogata surprinde prin senzatia matasoasa, dar si prin structura de taninuri perfect coapte si dulci. Este un vin mare, care are potential enorm de evolutie, cu un final lung, ce atesta maretia Bordeaux-ului. Chateau Leoville Poyferre 2003 (96/100) a fost pentru mine vinul serii si continua sa ma lase fara cuvinte in fata grandorii sale.

Am lasat in urma supletea vinurilor din Bordeaux si am virat catre bogatia, puterea si extractivitatea vinurilor de pe Valea Ronului, incepand degustarea cu un Syrah total atipic, care merita incercat macar o data in viata de catre orice iubitor de Syrah/Shiraz.

Thierry Allemand are o istorie interesanta. Electrician de meserie, a achizitionat vite de vii vechi de 100 de ani de la un alt producator legendar din Cornas: Verset, aceleasi vite care au produs in 1990 un vin ce a obtinut 100 de puncte de la faimosul critic de vin Robert Parker. Timp de 15 ani Allemand a lucrat personal parcelele de vie neavand puterea financiara sa angajeze oameni si detine 2.02 ha in Chaillot (vite de 30-40 ani) si 2.02 ha in Reynards (vite de 80-100 ani) pe care continua sa le lucreaza manual. Maturarea tine 24 luni in butoaie noi si vechi (55% noi anual).

T. Allemand Chaillot Cornas 2006 (93/100) este un vin cu o personalitate mai mare decat casa, daca as putea folosi un termen imprumutat din engleza. Pe langa intensitatea, bogatia si complexitatea aromelor, vinul se remarca prin notele de carne de vanat, fum, mure si o mineralitate pronuntata. Unul dintre participanti, cu experienta larga in degustarea profesionista vinurilor, a declarat ca ar putea recunoaste acest vin si trezit in mijlocul noptii si pus sa deguste in orb 40 de vinuri. Corpul, aciditatea, aromele, taninurile sunt in armonie completa, vinul avand o usurinta de a fi baut care l-ar putea da dependenta. Finalul este lung, intens si pastreaza notele pronuntat minerale.

Multi dintre participanti s-au declarat sedusi si cuceriti total de ultimul vin rosu al serii, plasandu-l pe primul loc in preferintele lor. Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape 2007 (95/100) este de asemenea un vin mare. Producatorul a inceput sa faca vin in 1987 si s-a impus in scurt timp prin calitatea oferita. Majoritar Grenache cu portii mici de Syrah si Mourvedre, in fata lui Cuvee Reservee 2007 nu poti ramane indiferent. Maturat 24 de luni in butoaie mari din lemn vechi, vinul lasa loc terroir-ului sa vorbeasca. Un vin complex, bogat atat in arome la nivel olfactiv, cat si pe palatin, cu textura densa, profund, ce se deschide in etape pe masura ce se aereaza si surprinde la fiecare inghititura. Intalnim un caleidoscop al aromelor, care vireaza de la fructe rosii foarte coapte, gemuri de zmeura si capsuni, spre condimente asiatice, ierburi provensale, dar si note de vanat pus la fezandat si sange de vita. Finalul este lung, iar vinul este de abia la inceputul unei vieti foarte lungi. Cine-l are, sa-l pastreze neatins inca 5-7 ani, iar pentru pastrare as zice ca 25-30 de ani rezista fara probleme.

Finalul acestei serii de vinuri a fost pe masura. Chateau Rieussesc Sauternes 1996 (93-94/100) este un vin expresiv, bogat si complex. Chateau Rieussec a fost achizitionat in 1988 de Lafite Rothschild, iar din 1996 au inceput sa realizeze fermentarea si maturarea in baricuri noi de stejar (24-36 de luni). Chateau Rieussec 1996 are o culoare superba, galben aurie-chihlimbarie. Vinul are un buchet rafinat, intens, ce dezvaluie arome de ananas caramelizat, note citrice, condimente indiene, sofran si note usoare de petrol ce-i confera o complexitate sporita. Echilibru frumos in gust intre dulceata si aciditate, onctuos si in acelasi timp viu pe palatin, cu arome intense, si final foarte lung. Un exemplar superb de Sauternes. Pana in acest moment Chateau d’Yquem si Chateau Rieussec, ambele din 1996, sunt cele mai bune vinuri de Sauternes pe care le-am consumat.

Ca si organizator nu cred ca este indicat sa ma pronunt vis-a-vis de reusita acestei degustari lasandu-i pe altii sa judece, dar sper ca invitatii s-au simtit bine si au apreciat vinurile si atmosfera la fel de mult cum le-am apreciat si noi. Urmtorul eveniment este planificat pentru luna Martie si ne gandim sa avem vinurile din Italia ca tematica. Pentru cei interesati sa participe imi puteti lasa un mesaj pe mail la cosmin.grozea@gmail.com.

aperitivul degustarii

2008 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du pape

One of my all time favorite Chateauneuf du pape producers, very reliable and making very good wines almost every vintage. I am a sucker for 1995 Vieux Telegraphe, while 2009 I had two weeks ago has great potential to develop and become a great wine.

2008 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du pape

Saturared red ruby color. Considering that 2008 was an average vintage in Chateauneuf du pape and many reputable producers chose not to release their top cuvees, this was a surprinsingly excellent  wine. Intense, well developed, compelling and expressive nose, it offers juiciness and substance on the palate. Flavors of bright strawberry and raspberry jams, herbs and cloves appear on the palate, while the texture is smooth, the tannins polished and the wine well balanced. The finish is medium to long, fresh and appealing. The wine is already open and ready to drink, but it can last 8-10 years without any problem. (91/100)

2008 is a better choice to be drank today than 2009 is.

2004 Clos des Pape Chateauneuf du pape

In the same line up of wines I had on SAT, the last wine before Chateau d’Yquem 2000 was this excellent example of Chateauneuf du pape. The wine was popped and poured, and was not probably left to breath enough time. There were probably not more than 60 minutes left in the decanter and it certainly needs more. Luckily there were some leftovers on the second day and I could get a better idea about it.

2004 Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du pape

Dark red – saturated ruby color. From the first pour in the glass the nose betrays an extremely young wine. The nose is almost undeveloped and if you would not know the vintage you could swear you are tasting a 2009 or 2010.

Not even prolonged aeration or having it on the second day doesn’t move this wine into a more developed stage. There are aromas of sweet red and black cherry, Indian spices and a mix of herbs: sage, thyme and lavender, but the wine needs to spend longer time in bottle. It is full bodied on the palate – for a Chateauneuf du pape it might qualify as medium to full body, a smooth texture of fine grained tannins that makes the wine already pleasant to drink, flavors of raspberry, strawberry and red cherry jams, white pepper and showing a powerful character on the long spicy and Grenache like red fruit finish. I would not open the next bottle for at least another 4-5 years. Regarding aging potential, this has at least another 20-30 years of life ahead. 14.5 % (93/100)

Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du pape 2009 and 1995

I had dinner on FRI evening with friends at Veranda Casa Frumoasa and had the chance to enjoy this young Chateauneuf du pape. The location looks elegant and service is sharp. The food was all right, but beef could be better considering the prices, the wine list is rather good but I believe it loses points (and business for sure) by not having any Romanian wines listed. For a FRI evening the location was rather empty as, excluding our table, there were only 2 persons present at another table. And that’s how it remained for the entire evening.

We had several dishes for dinner but the one that stood out and made an impression was goose liver on waffle with red currant and two types of sauces. The goose liver on waffle was an unexpected but sensational combination that can be rated as a 10.

With food we had the young 2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du pape that already has the attributes to become a great wine with more aging. I am a big fan of this wine from this reliable producer that makes excellent wines every vintage. It is one of the few sure things in Chateauneuf du pape.

2009 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du pape

The wine was decanted for about 20 minutes and then poured in larger volume in our glasses were we left it to aerate more for another 30 minutes. The color is deep red garnet. The nose is developed, not very expressive at the moment, but it scores big on the palate. Full bodied, well structured and so smooth and silky for such a young Chateauneuf du pape, good balance between power and elegance, fresh, with superb red and black fruits flavors on the palate, Indian spices, roasted herbs and a discreet touch of bacon. Long finish, smooth, fresh and, believe or not, overall such an elegant wine. This wine has typically 14% alcohol, but this one bears the mark of the ripe 2009 vintage, showing 14.5% alcohol, pure flavors and perfectly ripe tannins. It has a great aging potential and it can last 15-20 years easily. (92-93/100)

Just before last Christmas I had an older version of this wine that did not make it on the blog until now. It is a 1995 Vieux Telegraphe, a wine I know and I had also about 2 years ago. I believe the 1995 Vieux Telegraphe has the power to convert people into wine lovers.

1995 Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du pape

Plenty of sediment in this wine. I uncorked it and left it to aerate in the bottle for almost 2 hours, taking small sips at various time intervals.

The color is a saturated ruby red with no signs of aging. The nose is well developed, youthful and maturing, showing great complexity and serious depth. The aromatic profile is still dominated by primary aromas of red fruits in different stages of ripeness and red fruits preserves that have superb purity, Indian spices and, the only signs of a certain early maturity, a leathery aroma. In the mouth this wine is a symphony: smooth and silky, perfectly blended tannins, fresh ripe red fruits: red currants, raspberries, strawberries, spices, a bit of game, and each of this aroma comes in front of the stage in phases just like the acts and actors of a play as the wine aerates. There is a sense of absolute balance, with all components in the right places. Long finish, smooth and in the perfect drinking window. There is no problem holding it further, but if you are looking for the perfect drink at a very affordable price, this is your wine. (95/100)

2006 Chateau Vieux Lazaret Cuvee Exceptionnelle Chateauneuf du pape

Another great wine from my busy last weekend. I am a big fan of Chateauneuf du pape and I am a sucker for well aged Grenache. Perhaps it is not the case for this relatively young 2006, but still, the wine has everything that you hope to find in a good Chateauneuf du pape: richness, balance and complexity.

2006 Chateau Vieux Lazaret Cuvee Exceptionnelle Chateauneuf du pape

It has a deep, saturated red color and it is certainly not the case to discuss any signs of aging here. The nose is well developed, really intense and evolving as the wine makes contact with the air. It is initially rather close and shows some yeasty aromas, but as it breathes over 2 hours, it gains depth and shifts from a ripe character of flamboyant sweet red fruit and red fruit jams to a more classic one with black olives paste, garrigue, black pepper and tar. Full bodied, with smooth texture and ripe tannins, well structured and balanced, it shows good richness on the palate. Long finish, spicy, with some lingering flavors of sweet ripe blackberry. At 14.5% alc the wine is really smooth, classic and pleasant to enjoy. Definitely not a body builder wine like so many recent examples of modern Chateauneuf du pape. (91/100)

It is a wine that can convert people into liking wine. I remember first time I started to discover wine a few years ago, I was looking for richness above any other things. This is a sweet compromise where one finds both richness and balance in a classic style. Chateau Vieux Lazaret Cuvee Exceptionnelle is imported into Romania by Cramele Recas.

2006 Thierry Allemand Chaillot Cornas

It is the second time I encounter this particular wine and it is as great as last time. The Chaillot is a 100% Syrah wine coming from 20-40 years old vines. I had the wine on FRI evening and loved it so much that I actually finished the whole bottle by myself.

2006 Thierry Allemand Chaillot Cornas

Dark red with hints of purple. The nose is really complex, well developed, intense and, as it breathes, it opens up more and reveals distinct aromas. It is the most mineral Syrah I had in a while and it has a nice cedar, almost Bordeaux like freshness. There are plenty of aromas of well hung meat, game, cedar, tar and red fruits. Full bodied, well structured, great acidity, balanced, silky texture in spite of the assertive tannins and, overall, an unbelievable freshness and easiness to drink. Long finish, gamey and mineral, with lingering flavors and beautiful freshness. This is a really nice wine that drinks very well already, but one that can easily last 10-15 years and still be great. (93/100)