Dinner with 3 wines from Davino and a 1995 Saint Estephe

I had dinner this week with Nicusor Cazan and Mr Dan Balaban, Davino’s major shareholder. Mr Balaban was kind enough to bring some of his older wines that are no longer available at the winery to taste them together. We met at Crowne Plaza’s La Veranda restaurant and tasted semi-blind a 2006 Domaine Ceptura Rouge, a 2006 and a 2009 Purpura Valahica Feteasca Neagra – 2009 Purpura Valahica will be launched in March this year, and also an older wine kindly provided by Nicusor Cazan: 1995 Chateau Phelan Segur.

Before starting the actual tasting I had a very tasty Risotto with smoked eggplant and Gorgonzola.

We started the tasting with the youngest and this was quite a surprising wine. It certainly seems to be one the most complete and succulent Feteasca Neagra I had so far. The wine spent already a few good months in bottle, being aged at the winery. Mr Balaban confessed that he really did not want to put this wine on the market at this stage, but he is forced to do it as the last vintage was completely sold out many months ago. Mr Balaban’s biggest concern is that his wines, just like all the other top Romanian wines, are consumed too young, the vast majority of consumers do not have the patience to wait for the wines to develop at least secondary, not to mention tertiary aromas.

2009 Davino Purpura Valahica Feteasca Neagra

Dark red-purple color. Very youthful nose, intense, still showing signs of elevage from the few months spent in Romanian oak barrels, mixed with red and black fruits, a rich minty aroma and more spices. Full bodied, well structured, surprisingly accessible and velvety for such a young wine, and well balanced. There is good richness on the palate for a Feteasca Neagra and remarkable freshness. The finish is medium to long, with red fruit flavors, but what dominates the aftertaste is the richness of spices, the mint being the main actor. A very interesting wine with a bright future. (88-89/100)

2006 Davino Purpura Valahica Feteasca Neagra

Red garnet color with ruby reflections. The nose is developed but still youthful, with mixed aromas of fresh red fruits and plenty of spices: cinnamon and anise shine as the wine breathes. Medium to full bodied, this 2006 has a more elegant appearance than its hedonistic younger brother, with a velvety mouth-feel and fully integrated tannins. The finish is medium, with intense spicy flavors in the aftertaste. The wine still has plenty of life ahead and would be interesting to revisit it in a few years again. (85-86/100)

2006 Davino Domaine Ceptura Rouge

This wine was served partially blind by Mr Balaban as I saw the label but the vintage was hidden. As I tasted the wine in December I managed to recognize it this time.

Red garnet color with no signs of evolution. A well developed nose, a bit more profound than the previous two Purpura Valahica wines, showing the fruity and spicy aromas of Feteasca Neagra, mixed with  paprika and red currant. Full bodied, well structured, with mellow tannins and pleasant mouth-feel, the wine shows also a richer character on the palate. The finish is medium plus long and spicy. Still more potential for development. (87/100)

1995 Chateau Phelan Segur Saint Estephe

Red garnet color with very light signs of aging. The nose is fully developed and maturing, intense, with good Cabernet Sauvignon typicality, and seducing aromas of smoke, red and black currant, damp earth, plenty of green herbs, tobacco leaves and dry plums. Full bodied but supple, well balanced, with a very pleasant velvety mouth-feel and fully integrated tannins. Their is great freshness, a good flavor profile on the palate and a medium plus finish, with coffee, red currant, spices and a firm grip in the aftertaste that suggests further aging potential. Great drink-ability and no rush to drink it. (90/100)

1995 Phelan Segur and its beautiful color

I finished the meal with a cheese cake for dessert but unfortunately it was a bit too dry.

2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese

The original name of the Fritz Haag winery, the Dusemonder Hof, recalls the original name of the village, which changed to Brauneberg from Dusemond in 1925. Until then, the name Brauneberg applied only to the vine-growing hillside on the opposite banks of the Mosel, on which the world-famous Juffer site is located. The core of the Juffer is marked by an old sundial, which gave the Sonnenuhr parcel its name. With its steep, south-southeast facing slope and stony clay slate soil, the Juffer Sonnenuhr has always ranked among the best white wine vineyards in the world, and is equaled in the Mosel only by Wehlener Sonnenuhr and Bernkasteler Doctor. The Rieslings grown here combine mineral richness of the slate soil with the fruity, elegant expression of high ripeness.

2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese

Medium gold color. The nose is sweet and fresh, with intoxicating aromatic richness, exhibiting generous tropical fruits, pineapple, lemon rind, sweet melon, Asian spice and warm rubber. A silky texture fills the mouth, displaying ethereal weightless, while the mouth-watering acidity perfectly balances the natural sweetness. The wine is rich on the palate, with similar flavors as on the nose. The finish has immense length, preserving the same note of mouth-watering acidity and lingering citrus and tropical fruits flavors. 7.5% alc (92-93/100)

Champagne Veuve Fourny Rose 1er Cru Vertus Brut

Although less well known than some of the other veuves (widows) in Champagne, this small family house can hold its head in terms of the authenticity, originality and quality of its wines. Established in 1856, the house is now run by Madame Monique Fourny and her two sons Charles-Henry and Emmanuel.

Based in the premier cru village of Vertus, the domaine owns some 40 parcels of vines across 12 ha of the Cote des Blancs. Many of the vines are old, having been planted in the 1960s and ’70s, and all are carefully supervised. Several aspects of the wine-making reflect skills Emmanuel acquired in Burgundy, such as fermentation in Burgundian barriques with batonnage.

Champagne Veuve Fourny La Subtilite Rose 1er Cru Vertus Brut

Pretty dark pink, almost ruby red color with intense foam and smooth bubbles. The nose is extremely intense from the moment you pour it in the glass so it is easy to feel the aromas from a distance. Great freshness, lots of fresh red fruits and not the tiring ultra ripe-sugary aromas found in many roses; plenty of citrus fruit, pink grapefruit, dough and overall a very pleasing and fresh nose. Very focused on the palate, with real tension, intensity and well defined flavors. Lenghty finish, persistent, dry, mineral and citric. Makes you want to eat. Really nice. (92/100)

I had this Champagne with my favorite easy to prepare dishes for sparkling: smoked salmon with green salad, red onion, capers, olive oil and a sprinkle of fresh lemon juice on top, and a classic when it comes to Champagne: Jamon Iberico Bellota. Minimum effort and maximum pleasure.