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Lovely lunch with 2 from Davino and a Vega-Sicilia Unico

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Has a lovely lunch about 2 weeks ago with a couple of friends and tasted some top Romanian wines and an iconic Spanish wine from Vega-Sicilia. There is a huge gap price wise between these wines: Spanish vs Romanian, and one has to think thoroughly if it is worth it. I have a few friends that are Unico ambassadors by choice, but hey who wouldn’t like to drink Valbuena, Unico or Reserva Especial every day ?

Vega-Sicilia Unico 2007 was opened already for 24 h and 1 glass was taken out. So, properly aerated. Even at this stage the oak influence is quite assertive both on the nose and the palate. There is rich and elegant fruit here, it has depth on the nose, but it does not confirm yet the same sheer class on the palate. It is young but I do not see it at the same level as the 2000 or 2004. The oak flavors seem to upfront for now. (94/100)

Davino Flamboyant 2010 was decanted for about 45 minutes and drank over 1 h. Deep dark red color. Its aromatic profile resembles a Super Tuscan, with the sunny ripe and spicy black fruit. Rich on the palate, high tannin that needs big food to feel smooth, lots of black fruit and spicy. Medium to long finish. (92/100)

Davino Rezerva Red 2010 was also decanted for 45 minutes and drank over 2 h. This is closer to a Bordeaux. There is more freshness and red fruit here than in Flamboyant. It has a paprika, black currant and meat stock profile. A bit more flesh, refreshing tannin that seems to be smoother on the palate. Longer finish with lots of dark chocolate. Loved the freshness here. (93/100)

 

Degustare Davino – noile vinuri rosii din recolta 2011 (15 Ianuarie)

December 15, 2014 1 comment

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Ca de fiecare data spre final de an, Davino lanseaza o noua serie a vinurilor sale rosii de top. Aceasta lansare se intampla si mai tarziu decat de obicei iar asta doar din dorinta producatorului de a matura vinurile si mai mult si a le oferi consumatorilor cat mai aproape de momentul optim la care pot fi baute. Dar asta nu inseamna ca ele nu pot fi tezaurizate inca multi ani de aici inainte. Din contra 🙂

Asadar, va propunem aceste vinuri la degustare aproape in premiera (au fost prezentate doar comerciantilor pana acum), ele nefiind inca disponibile pe rafturile magazinelor sau in restaurante.

In deschidere avem 3 vinuri albe tot de la Davino, pe care le-am degustat deja la lansare, dar care credem ca sunt in continuare interesante, mai ales din prisma evolutiei lor din primavara si pana acum.

Asadar, vinurile:

  • Davino Domaine Ceptura Blanc 2013
  • Davino Sauvignon Blanc Edition Limitee 2013
  • Davino Reserva Alb 2012
  • Iacob Rosu 2012
  • Iacob Feteasca Neagra 2011
  • Davino Purpura Valahica (Feteasca Neagra) 2011
  • Davino Domaine Ceptura Rouge 2011
  • Davino Flamboyant 2011

Degustarea va avea loc joi, 15 Ianuarie 2015, de la ora 19:30, la Restaurant Dada (Str. Matei Voievod 94bis). Sunt 12 locuri disponibile și fiecare costă 150 lei, sumă care include vinurile, o sticlă de apă și prezența noastră agreabilă. Pentru rezervari va rog contactati-ma pe email la cosmin.grozea@gmail.com sau la telefon 0723 240 102.

Degustare DAVINO (Marti 15 Octombrie 2013)

October 8, 2013 Leave a comment

Zilele acestea Davino se pregateste de lansarea noilor vinuri rosii din recolta 2010. Ne-am gandit sa vi le oferim in premiera la degustare pentru a le putea vedea inainte sa ajunga pe rafturile magazinelor de specialitate si in restaurante. Noi am fost surprinsi inca o data de noile vinuri mai ales venind dupa exceptionalul an 2009.

O alta premiera este un vin din noua gama, Iacob, si o scurta verticala de Revelatio pentru a vedea cum evolueaza in timp acest cupaj indraznet de Sauvignon Blanc & Feteasca Alba.

Iata vinurile propuse:

2009 DAVINO Revelatio (Sauvignon Blanc & Feteasca Alba)
2011 DAVINO Revelatio (Sauvignon Blanc & Feteasca Alba)
2011 Iacob Rosu (Cabernet Sauvignon & Feteasca Neagra)
2010 DAVINO Purpura Valahica (Feteasca Neagra)
2010 DAVINO Domaine Ceptura Rouge (Cabernet Sauvingon, Merlot & Feteasca Neagra)
2010 DAVINO Flamboyant (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot & Feteasca Neagra)
Surpriza: incheiem seara cu un vin care s-a asezat foarte bine de la lansare.

Ne intoarcem la locatia de inceput a degustarilor noastre, restaurantul Dada, acum proaspat renovat si parca si mai primitor.

Degustarea va avea loc marti, 15 octombrie 2013, de la ora 19:00, la Restaurantul Dada (Str. Matei Voievod nr. 94bis). Sunt 20 de locuri disponibile și fiecare costă 190 de lei, sumă care include vinurile, aperitivele și prezența noastră agreabilă.

Rezervări la +40722 141 879 (Nicușor) sau +40723 240 102 (Cosmin)
sau pe email: cosmin.grozea@gmail.com si nicusor.cazan@gmail.com

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Davino Flamboyant – o verticala romaneasca de exceptie

December 14, 2012 1 comment

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Aseara am participat la o degustare pe care o pot inscrie fara nici o ezitare in categoria “Top wine tastings of 2012” daca m-as gandi sa fac un bilant al acestui an. La fel ca si anul trecut (se pare ca este o traditie deja) evenimentul a fost organizat de Vinexpert impreuna cu Davino si gazduit de Wine bar-ul lor din Dorobanti. Asa cum s-a afirmat in deschiderea evenimentului, Vinexpert urmareste sa organizeze o degustare speciala ca ultim eveniment de sfarsit de an. Anul trecut aceeasi ocazie a reprezentat o verticala de 6 ani diferiti de Domaine Ceptura Rouge de la Davino. Anul acesta au fost mai putine vinuri, dar si mai spectaculoase.

Evenimentul si vinurile au fost prezentate de insusi proprietarul cramei, dl Dan Balaban, care a explicat foarte detaliat conditiile de recolta ale fiecarui an, schimbarile pe care le-a intreprins crama in evolutia vinului de la an la an, s-au comentat vinurile si s-a raspuns la intrebarile din public.

Primul vin degustat este rezultatul unui “accident”, in sensul ca la o recenta verificare a stocurilor a fost descoperit un palet de sticle de Merlot vinificat special si uitat intr-un colt al cramei. Conform domnului Balaban, Davino produce pentru clienti speciali la cerere vinuri din soiuri pure de struguri. Este cazul si acestui Davino Merlot (Rezerva) 2007 care a fost oferit si va fi gasit in exclusivitate in reteaua magazinelor Vinexpert la pretul de 111 Ron.

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Desi servit putin prea cald fata de temperatura optima, Davino Merlot (Rezerva) 2007 prezinta un nas evoluat, complex, cu arome de fructe rosii confiate, gem, prune uscate, fum, eucalipt. Un vin extractiv, structurat, cu note de cafea, tanin usor astringent, arome de gem de cirese negre amarui in finalul mediu spre lung. Servit la temperatura ideala va surprinde prin complexitatea sa. 13.2% alc (90/100)

Flamboyant-ul reprezinta vinul rosu de top al acestui producator, realizat doar in anii cei mai buni. Se folosesc cele mai bune parcele de Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot si Feteasca Neagra, este maturat pana la 10 luni in stejar pur romanesc din diferite zone ale tarii, macerare indelungata pe pielitele strugurilor (in jur de 28 de zile), rezultatul fiind o capacitate foarte buna de invechire dar si faptul ca vinurile au nevoie de o perioada mai indelungata de timp pentru a se deschide.

Davino are in plan constructia unei noi crame in Ceptura care va oferi posibilitatea pe viitor a unei maturari mai indelungate a vinurilor. Deja acest proces de prelungire a maturarii in butoaie de stejar a fost inceput in 2006 prin aparitia noilor vinuri Rezerva rosu produs pana acum in 2006, 2007 si 2009.

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Verticala de Flamboyant a inclus vinurile din 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009 si in premiera 2010 care va fi lansat cel mai probabil pana in Paste anul viitor. Flamboyant a fost realizat pentru prima oara in 2002 (ca experiment) intr-un lot de doar 600 de sticle care nu a fost comercializat. In 2004, 2005 si 2008 nu a fost produs.

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Flamboyant 2003

Nas evoluat, in proces de maturare, arome de fructe rosii si negre, confiate, prune, o nota de bacon,  fresh, ia timp sa se deschida, complex si profund. Corpolent, rotund, carnos, puternic dar in acelasi timp cizelat, arome de gem de fructe rosii, visine, tanin polisat, dulce si copt, se deschide in etape si surprinde la fiecare inghititura. Expresie foarte profunda de fruct rosu cu puritate a aromelor, condiment si visina in diverse stadii: coapta, gem, putreda. Prezinta un adevarat caleidoscop de arome si te incita sa-l descoperi. Final lung, polisat, cu tanin dulce pe gingii. Este recomandata deschiderea lui cu 24 de ore inainte de a fi consumat pentru a oferi expresia maxima. Vinul prezinta o tinerete de invidiat si prezinta un potential de pastrare de cel putin inca 10 ani. In momentul in care s-a degustat acest vin s-a facut liniste completa in sala.  (92-93/100)

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Flamboyant 2006

Nas evoluat, cu semne de maturitate, aminteste izbitor de buchetul unui Bordeaux vechi  de calitate (1995-1996) care a evoluat frumos la sticla; iodat, deschis, complex, cu arome de cedru si busuioc, fruct rosu perfect copt, spice, fresh, pruna uscata, deosebit de expresiv. Stil clasic Bordeaux, extractiv, cu prospetime remarcabila, scortisoara, visina putreda, cedru, structurat, viu, cu mineralitate ce confera prospetime texturii, final lung, spicy, proaspat, tanin ferm. Un vin elegant si expresiv, feminin si in antiteza completa daca-l comparam cu 2003-ul. O evolutie foarte buna care m-a facut sa-l plasez (ca preferinta proprie) in fruntea degustarii din aceasta seara datorita accesibilitatii sale. (92/100)

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Flamboyant 2007

Nas evoluat, nu la fel de complex ca cele dinainte, mentolat cu arome de busuioc uscat, piele, spice mai pronuntat, mai putina Feteasca Neagra in cupaj ca in alti ani dar componenta condimentata specifica FN iese mai pregnant in evidenta datorita anului cald si coacerii depline; arome de fructe rosii coapte, confiate, gem, visina si o usoara adiere de violete. Structurat, cu tanin viu, dulce si ferm, cafea, un vin plin, ceva mai astringent, mai inchis pe palatin. Final lung, proaspat, tanin care-si manifesta prezenta din plin si gem de fruct rosu. Vinul are nevoie de mai mult timp pentru a capata expresivitatea unui 2006. (90/100)

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Flamboyant 2009

Vinul e la fel de interesant ca acum o saptamana cand l-am degustat direct la crama. Nas fin, piper verde, tutun, piele, extract puternic, structurat, echilibrat, taninuri masive si ferme, putin uscate, dulceata de visine si cirese negre, piper verde, aciditate proaspata, final lung, ferm in postgust, cu tanin dulce pe gingii. Vin cu rezerve de arome care va avea o evolutie probabil mult mai spectaculoasa decat 2003-ul de azi. Din nou as recomanda achizitia de 2009 si pastrarea lui pentru ca in 10 ani vinul va fi si mai spectaculos. (92-93/100)

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Flamboyant 2010

Nas bine evoluat pentru un vin atat de tanar, cu arome de stejar extrem de bine lucrate, intens, concentrat, arome de piele, trufe, visina coapta, carne de vita cruda, gust plin, structurat, masiv, iti da senzatia ca musti din el, fruct copt-gem pe palatin, final lung, tanin prezent usor uscat dar lasa dulceata pe gingii. Un vin tanar, intens, extractiv, final lung, structura tanica masiva dar taninurile sunt coapte si dulci. Granulatie fina a texturii cu senzatie de pudra fina de cacao. Recunosc ca mi-e foarte greu sa acord un rating acestui vin, dar trebuie specificat ca are toate atributele pentru a depasi bariera superioara de 90/100 si urca mult peste: complexitate, profunzime, structura, final lung.

O degustare eveniment care a incheiat in forta seria de evenimente marca Vinexpert.

A winey weekend: Puech Haut, La Rioja Alta and more

December 4, 2012 2 comments

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I had a weekend full of wines. Started on FRI evening with this 2004 Chateau Puech-Haut Tete de Belier rouge that shows extremely well and reminds of a Chateauneuf du pape.

2004 Chateau Puech-Haut Tete de Belier rouge

Deep dark, red garnet color. A well developed and youthful nose, intense, it has the aromatic profile of a quality Chateauneuf du pape. It shows a freshness that I found in a 2004 Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du pape. The nose has Grenache profile written all over it and is filled with liquorice, garrigue, raspberry and red cherry jam, nutmeg and game. Full in the mouth, ripe, structured and balanced, it has serious consistency and flesh, with a long spicy red fruit jam aftertaste. A wine that stays very well on its feet, showing good freshness, flesh and spark. No hurry to drink it on the short term. 14.5% (91/100)

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On SAT evening had dinner with a good friend at La Cantine de Nicolai and had a small bottle of Meursault by Drouhin and an old school 1997 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904. The 2006 Joseph Drouhin Meursault from a 0.375 bottle shows a developed nose, with plenty of butter, roasted almonds and richness.

It is the second time I visit La Cantine de Nicolai after almost 2 years. I remember the first time I was there I was eager to try one of their desserts that looked so good on photos. Unfortunately it was not available on that day. It took me 2 years, but I finally got it.

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1997 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva 904

Uncorked, decanted and left it to breath for 30 mins, which was probably not enough but we were really thirsty. Saturated ruby red color with minor brick on the rim. A well developed nose, intense aromas of dill and orange are dominant on the aromatic profile, and, as the wine opens up, cinnamon, bright red fruits and tobacco come out. A wine with great freshness, fresh acidity, structured, balanced, elegant, and a long finish, spicy and fresh. Everything seems to be in the right place with this wine, and at 15 years old, the wine feels ageless, a plateau where it will probably stay for a very long time. I like the freshness and the complexity of a well aged Old School Rioja. (91/100)

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We also had a Champagne Duval Leroy Brut Rose (89/100): clean, fresh, mineral, fine bubbles and so easy to drink at Le Manoir’s wine bar near Ateneu and finished the night with a Dessert Stirbey.

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SUN was calm and quite, how else could you spend the first day of cold weather and rain of this winter. Cooked at home some fresh pasta with tomato sauce and shrimps that were highly appreciated by my companion. Also tried a 2011 Ceptura Rose by Davino, a deep rose colored wine that sits very well in its price category and delivers. Even if it shows 14.4% alcohol, the wine is balanced, with intense small red berries aromas and some residual sugar that provides body and consistency to its medium finish. This is a rose suitable for this cold weather.

704712_447158695345141_2098061620_olong awaited dessert at La Cantine de Nicolai

2009 Davino Rezerva Blanc

September 26, 2012 Leave a comment

I made a barbeque in my yard on SUN as the weather continues to be unusually warm in Romania for this period of the year, we are still enjoying 28-30 Celsius degrees. I had another prime fish that I bought this week: this time a 1 kilo Dentex that took almost 45 min to cook on the grill, but the result was fantastic. With a dressing made of some olive oil and lemon juice, the fish meat is perfect.

A few slices of lemon put inside the fish will give a nice citric flavor.

Paired with a variety of grilled vegetables this was an unforgettable lunch. I wanted to choose a good wine and this was a good opportunity to check how the white Rezerva from Davino evolves now at 3 years from the harvest.

2009 Davino Rezerva Blanc

This is Davino’s top white wine. Blend of Italian Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc, aged less than 1 year in Romanian oak. The Riesling gives good structure and the Sauvignon Blanc very nice aromatics. I tasted this wine about 3 times in the last 11 months and there is a significant evolution. Last year in November-December the wine seemed a bit closed, with pronounced oak flavors and the acidity not showing its best. Then, in March-April it started to open up but still not in the right place.

Today I can say that  I find it very expressive and open compared to any of the previous tastings. Not only that the nose became more interesting, but the wine is really lively in the mouth and appears much younger than in the past. The color is a medium yellow gold color. The nose is intense and reminds me of the Ch Carbonnieux I had a week ago, due to its nice oaky and tropical fruits aromas. Well structured and lively in the mouth, a nice richness on the palate, charming fruit and spicy flavors, and a medium plus long finish, with citric fruit and vanilla. This turned out to be an interesting wine and has the potential to last longer. (90-91/100)

DAVINO Domaine Ceptura Rouge 2009 vs 2010

September 10, 2012 Leave a comment

I received two bottles of Domaine Ceptura Rouge 2010 and 2009 last week from DAVINO to entertain an academic exercise and compare the two wines. It is important to mention that Domaine Ceptura Rouge 2010 will probably be released on the market not earlier than the spring of 2013. That means that the wine ages in the bottle anywhere between 8-12 months prior to its release.

Domanine Ceptura Rouge is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Feteasca Neagra aged for 8-10 months in new Romanian oak barrels.

Perhaps the title is a bit tricky as both wines maintain the continuity in style and quality that DAVINO managed to build over the years. Perhaps what puts 2009 on a higher scale is the advantage of benefiting from an almost perfect ripening season. As stated before, 2009 was the best vintage over more than 20-30 years in Dealu Mare, having the right conditions at right time. The wines have lush fruit and fully ripe and sweet tannins. The 2010 was a more capricious vintage than 2009. However, rigorous work in the vineyard and keeping the yields low produced good quality fruit. Both wines show good structure and balance, intense aromas and flavors and a medium to long aftertaste. Both wines have enough complexities to make them enticing.

There is however a slight difference between the two vintages, as 2009 seems to possess voluptuous fruit – without being tiring or too much, on the contrary, the lush flavors and the fully ripe tannins make it extremely approachable and pleasant to drink already. What never stops to surprise me is how well it evolves on the second day after uncorking it, showing a more complex nose and more interesting flavors (appealing truffles aromas), retaining its freshness in spite of all its extraction. There is a real potential for evolution for this wine and, as tempting as it is to drink it now, do try to save some bottles as in 3-4 years this will be even better. I always enjoy it more on the second day. This is usually the characteristic of a great wine, to be better as it gradually opens up on the following day.

2010 exhibits a higher acidity making it fresher, with a suppler body, but still retaining the intense flavors and the structure. It certainly feels younger, but still elegant. I am rather sure that these additional 6-8 months of aging in the bottle will make it rounder and more harmonious. We find the same extraction that marks DAVINO’s style and I believe that  2010 will probably take more time to be as accessible as the ripe 2009.

There is unquestionably a consistency in style for Domaine Ceptura Rouge and this was even better highlighted by a vertical tasting of 6 vintages of DCR organized by Vinexpert last year. These two recent vintages only confirm this style and success.

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