Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino – a vertical of 4 vintages
The first wine event of this year sounded extremely tempting from the moment I got the invitation so I had great expectations and looked forward to the event. The tasting was organized by Mr Marian Timofti, the importer of Biondi Santi to Romania, at the fancy new restaurant from Soseaua Nordului: La Brasserie Bistro&Lounge. The wines were opened with about 1-2 h in advance but they probably needed more time to breath.
The wine tasting consisted of 4 vintages of Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino: 2004, 2005, 2006 and 2007, and 2 other wines representing a modern and different style: 2002 Col d’Orcia Olmaia Cabernet and 2006 Jacopo Biondi Santi Sassoalloro.
2004 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Saturated ruby red color. Developed nose, discreet sweetness, aromas of red fruits and green tomatoes and not very expressive. Medium body, lively, well structured, firm and assertive tannins, rather closed on the palate and feels very tight. A classic profile with a medium finish. The wine has high acidity that makes it feel too thin on the palate and as much as there are tannins and there is structure, the wine feels like it does not have enough substance. A bit of a disappointment considering that 2004 was an excellent vintage all over Italy. The acidity seems to give most of its structure and as much as it can age for several more years I would be extremely curious to see if there is going to be any considerable improvement for this wine. (86-87/100)
2005 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Same saturated ruby red color. The nose is well developed, more expressive and pleasing than 2004, with aromas of game, leather and generous red fruit. Slightly fuller bodied, but remaining on the medium plus body, well structured and balanced, lively acidity, elegant profile, with smoother tannins and pleasant flavors of coffee, black tea and red fruits preserves. Medium-long finish with good freshness. Better to drink now. (88/100)
2006 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Same saturated ruby red color. The nose is developed but is not very expressive at this moment. Aromas of green vegetables and green tomatoes, hints of refreshing eucalyptus underneath discreet red fruits fill the glass and, as it aerates, aromas of mushrooms become evident. Medium plus body, this vintage has more substance, better structure and balance, remaining on the same path of elegance. It rewards the palate also. Medium to long finish, with black tea flavors. This one has all the components to age well and get better. (90-91/100)
2007 Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino
Saturated ruby red color. A well developed and expressive nose already, with balsamic notes, good complexity, and intense aromas of red fruits preserves, spices and leather. Medium plus body, good extraction but remaining elegant, structured and expressive on the palate. Long aftertaste with a classic profile and very good freshness. There is a pleasant mild sweetness on the palate that seduces you unconditionally. An already expressive wine. (90-91/100)
2006 Jacopo Biondi Santi Sassoalloro
Deep dark garnet color. Developed on the nose, with the right amount of fruit, floral aromas, plums and spices. Medium to full body, assertive and dry tannins, flavors of red and black cherry, tobacco and mineral on the palate. Medium finish. While this is not a really complex wine, it will please a larger number of consumers. (88/100)
2002 Col D’Orcia Olmaia Cabernet
Dark red garnet color with minor signs of evolution. A well developed and maturing nose, really lovely, expressive and fresh. There are still plenty of primary, red fruit aromas, spices, leather and a charming freshness given by eucalyptus. Full bodied, expressive, structured, but tannins are very smooth and fully blended, a wine that feels at its peak now and acting accordingly. It has a lengthy finish preserving the same freshness. Perfect to drink now. (90/100)
After the tasting was over, one of the persons at my table offered to bring 2 bottles of older Bordeaux that were also served to some of the participants that were still present.
1982 Chateau Beaumont Haut Medoc
I managed to safely uncork the wine in one piece. Coming from a stellar 1982 vintage this was not only alive, but still very good. The color is ruby red with a brick rim. The nose was initially closed and offered intense aromas of horse sweat and brett, but as it breathed these aromas lost their intensity and let the pleasant ones to shine: cedar, subdued sweet red fruit, graphite, smoke, tobacco and earth. Mature wine, still structured and very much alive on the palate, lively acidity, discreet red fruits and black tea. A medium finish, refreshing. Better to be consumed now. (88/100)
1983 Chateau Haut Surget Lalande de Pomerol
The cork came out in one piece also. Ruby red color with brick meniscus. A more intense mature nose, with pronounced red fruits aromas, there is however a metallic-rusty aroma that makes it less interesting. It also seemed a bit more fuller on the palate, completely mature, lively acidity, denser red fruits also, with a medium finish reminding of black tea and dried cherries. Lesser pleasure for me than the 1982. (84/100)
It was definitely a great event and I was glad that it gave me the chance to get accustomed with the elegant and classic Biondi Santi’s wines. 2006 and 2007 are still available at the importer Arte&Vino shop near Carol Park in Bucharest.