Visit at Chateau Figeac in Saint Emilion

I visited Chateau Figeac on THU, June 23rd. My appointment was for 10:00 and when I arrived, I was content to find a place bathed by a warm sun on a peaceful morning. It is said that the best time to taste wine is somewhere early in the morning: 10-12:00 when the taste buds are at their best, or at least this is what our host mentioned.

Chateau Figeac is rather unique for its Saint Emilion appellation. A Grand Cru, it is the biggest estate with 40 ha under vines in an appellation where the average vineyards are around 8 ha. Also, as another unique characteristic, it is among the very few, if not the only estate in Saint Emilion, that grows Cabernet Sauvignon. The usual grape varieties found in Saint Emilion are Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The reason why Figeac grows Cabernet Sauvignon is its terroir, that resembles very much the soil found on the Left Bank due to its rich gravels.

In the early 19th century, Chateau Figeac was a 175 ha property but in time, parcels were sold by different owners. Plots sold are today parts of Beauregard and La Conseillante, while a sizable part established the core of what is Chateau Cheval Blanc today. Thierry Manoncourt took control in 1947 and he was the driving force that pushed Figeac to new heights. Unfortunately Mr Manoncourt passed away about 11 months ago at the age of 93. Our host mentioned that on the day he passed away he still went on swimming and looking over the property. He managed to make wines from over 40 vintages. Now the property is managed by his daughter Laure and son-in-law Count Eric d’Aramon.

Chateau Figeac grows 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Cabernet Franc and the remaining 30% Merlot. New oak is used to age for up to 20 months the Grand Vin, whereas second year barrels are used for the second wine: La Grange Neuve de Figeac. They use up to ten different types of oak for the aging barrels. A common thing to all cellars I visited were the beautiful aromas of vanilla coming from the new oak and combined with the wine aromas it was like stepping into a perfume shop.

The plantation density is about 6000 vines per ha and yields of 35 hl/ha. The vines are on average 35 years old. The gravelly soil has an average a depth of 6-8 meters for all three mounds: Les Moulins(the most southern with 7 m depth), La Terrasse(next to the north with 6 m depth) and L’Enfer(the northern with 8 m depth).

The vegetative cycle of the vines is more advanced than usual and the proof is the green harvesting already done – when they are cutting down green bunches of grapes to ensure better concentration and fully ripeness for the remaining. Usually the green harvest takes place towards the end of July. As it looks right now there will be an early harvest for September(vs the usual October) this year in Bordeaux.

The premises and the cellars of Figeac were the most rustic compared to all the other properties visited, however everything is done with a perfectionist attention to details. In the cellar they use big oak tanks, renewed every 20 years, for the alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, while old presses, used before, are exhibited as a legacy of the past, in the same room with the new equipment.

Down in the private cellar, Mr Manoncourt left a collection of over 500,000 bottles of different wines and vintages as inheritance to his heirs.

While we were visiting, employees were preparing to bottle the 2009 wines for the next day.

A large chamber that was part of the aging cellar, now transformed, became the tasting room and it is also used for the family’s private parties. The big fireplace built on one of the walls creates a cozy atmosphere.

I tasted a 2001 Chateau Figeac. An almost opaque dark red color. A well developed but still youthful and rich nose, wtith great earthy and mineral aromas, charcoal, tobacco, ample red fruit with red currant and dark cherry. A very seductive nose. Medium plus bodied, with velvety tannins, ample mouth feel, with rich aromas of earth, sweet red fruit, plum, tobacco and a long earthy-mineral finish. Drinking very well right now. (93-94/100)

The 2001 Chateau Figeac was available for sale at the chateau for 135 Eur and they also released their 2010 price for 140 € +5% versus 2009, + 309% versus 2008 and +138% versus 2005.

See below a video of the property:

Visit at Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou

The first Chateau I visited in Bordeaux was Ducru Beaucaillou on WED afternoon. The appointment was for 17:15 so I left Vinexpo around 16:00 to make sure I arrive in time. There are about 60 km from Bordeaux to Saint Julien. Our host at the Chateau, Mr Stephen Lemaitre – a gentleman from Scotland, explained thoroughly the history of the domain and shared extensive information about the vines, the works in the vineyard, the wine making process and the wines. The domain produces four wines: Ducru Beaucaillou – the grand vin(about 10-12,000 cases) and La croix de Beaucaillou – second wine both from 75 ha, Lalande de Borie from 25 ha and Ducluzeau in Listrac Medoc. Ducru Beaucaillou comes from a vineyard close to an estuary. The soil is gravelly, so the heat during the day is retained by the pebbles and liberated during night. The vines are on average 35-40 years old.

Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou is ranked as a Second Growth in the 1855 Classification.The actual name of the Chateau comes from the pebbles found into the soil: Beaucaillou translates into beautiful stone. The vines of Ducru Beaucaillou are 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. There is a high plantation density: 10,000 vines per ha creating competition between vines that go deeper into the soil to search for the nutriments, reaching 6 meters down.

The wines have seen a sustainable progress and more consistency since 2003, however acclaimed vintages in Bordeaux produced excellent wines for Ducru Beaucaillou: 1961, 1970, 1982 are showcased in the tasting room.

Ducru Beaucaillou is aged for 18 months in 95% new Frenc oak and Croix de Beaucaillou about 12 months in 20-60% new French oak depending on the quality of vintage. The last two vintages: 2009 and 2010 produced some of the best wines this property ever made.

As we walked down the cellar to reach the tasting room, a massive white stone is showcased as a work of art. Word is: it was found in the vineyard.

On the walls there are tasting notes for the domain’s 2010 wines.

As we approach the tasting room, one can see a shrine like construction where wines in different bottle sizes and more rocks are resting as an exhibition.

We tasted the 2010 wines: Ducru Beaucaillou, La Croix de Beaucaillou and Lalande Borie. Lalande Borie is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc, as opposed to the Ducru and Croix that contain only Cabernet Sauv and Merlot.

The most impressive of the wines is by far the grand vin: Ducru-Beaucaillou, however La Croix and Lalande are worth seeking out as well.

tasting room at Ducru Beaucaillou

2010 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou

Profound dark purple color. An opulent and developing nose, with layers of black fruits and spices. Luscious but well balanced on the palate, with tremendous concentration of ripe, velvety tannins, sustainable acidity and impressive fruit. There is a very long and powerful finish with persistent spicy fruit aromas in the aftertaste. Incredible richness even at this stage.

2010 Ducru Beaucaillou in the glass

The 2010 Ducru was rated 95-100 points by most of the major wine critics and claimed to be the best wine the domain has ever made. For me, as I am fairly new to tasting en-primeurs, it feels like a 94-96 points wine, but promising more.

2010 La Croix de Beaucaillou

Dark red violet color. Less opulent than the Grand vin, but still rich aromas of black cherries and other dark fruits. More approachable, but still imposing texture on the palate, good balance and a medium plus finish. Designed to be consumed sooner, but still enough tannins and complexity to age gracefully and be a value wine. 88-91/100

Did not manage to find my tasting notes for Lalande Borie. All three wines are unquestionably good. The en-primeur releasing prices for La Croix de Beaucaillou and Ducru Beaucaillou are 33.60 Eur, respectively 150 Eur (-16.7% lower compared to the 2009) ex-negociant. Coming out with a lower price level for the Grand vin when all the other Chateau’s released higher prices for their 2010s, Mr Bruno Borie is likely to emerge as a hero, especially on the USA market, by offering a higher rated wine at a lower price compared to its 2009.

garden view

I left the Chateau with a strong desire to return soon or at least to taste more of their wines. My experiences with wines from this domain were a 1966 Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou(you can read here) and a 2005 La Croix de Beaucaillou(you can read here), none of them disappointing.

Here is a video with the property and the story of the Chateau told by Mr Bruno Borie.

G-Day in Bordeaux

Herve Bizeul, owner of Clos des Fees in Roussillon and Tim Atkin MW

During the Vinexpo, on TUE evening (June 21st), some producers from Languedoc, Cotes du Rhone and Chateauneuf du pape showcased their wines at the Wine More Time bar in Bordeaux for the Grenache Day titled event. I presented myself at the entrance as a wine blogger from Romania and had no problem to be accepted at the event, even though prior invitations were requested. It also helped my prior communication via email and social networks with Mr Herve Bizeul, a former wine and gastronomical critic that purchased vines in Roussillon and is now the proudly owner of Clos des Fees.

There were plenty of producers in the bar, that were gladly pouring their wines directly from Magnums to be tasted. Many foreigners were also attending the event. I had the chance to speak initially in a bad French (my bad French) to the owner of the Australian Kilikanoon winery. We did chat for 15 minutes with difficulties, and, as Mr Nathan Waks turned to speak to his wife in a perfect English, I proposed him to switch to English, a language more familiar to me and apparently to him as well. My proposal was immediately accepted with great enthusiasm. I found out that he plays the cello and he had two Romanian colleagues that he was playing with in his orchestra. He had only good words to say about Romanians and invited me to visit his booth at Vinexpo next day and taste his wines. Unfortunately I did not manage to make it, as my visit to Vinexpo lasted only a day and it was pretty hectic.

I also recognized Mr Tim Atkin, a Master of Wine and a very active wine journalist in UK that was constantly tweeting as he was tasting wines. I approached him and introduced myself and even though he did not know me, he was very friendly. He did point a few wines to me to taste during the evening.

people tasting wine

There were plenty of wines from Chateauneuf du pape to taste, a lot of 2009s and a few older vintages: 2008, 2006 and 2005. Most of the 2009s I tasted, both from Chateauneuf du pape and Cotes du Rhone are rich and fat, usually with 15-15.5% alcohol, but the concentration of the fruit and the big tannins are enough to balance the alcohol. Big wines indeed. The Cotes du Rhone are more approachable for the moment and offer amazing drinking pleasure. Some of the wines I enjoyed were: Chateauneuf du pape Chateau de la Nerthe 2005, Chateauneuf du pape Domaine Vieille Julienne 2009 and its Cotes du Rhone, Chateauneuf du pape Domaine de la Janasse Chaupin 2009, Chateauneuf du pape Domaine Pierre Usseglio 2008.

Clos des Fees Grenache Blanc VV 2010

The wines of the night for me were the white 2010 Clos des Fees Grenache Blanc Vieilles Vignes and the humongous La Petite Siberie 2008. I already had the 2007 Grenache Blanc VV from Clos des fees and liked it a lot. See the post here. The 2010 is even better: at 14.5% alcohol the wine is rich, with a fresh nose and pure flavors of yellow flowers, spice and tropical fruit, with an amazing lively acidity and an intense and long fresh finish. (92/100) Mr Herve Bizuel kindly offered me a bottle as a gift, when I asked him if I could buy a bottle.

The most interesting wine at the event was by far his 2008 La Petite Siberie Clos des fees: a predominately  Grenache Noir wine, topped with a bit of Mourvedre/Syrah, coming from old vines from a small plot of about 1.4-1.6 ha where icy North-West winds blow more than 200 day per year – hence the name La Petite Siberie. The micro-climate is extreme and so is the wine. There is incredible richness, concentration with decadent layers of spices, black fruit and cocoa, a perfect balanced wine nonetheless, with great acidity and a touch of minerality. Silky mouth-feel and completely non-aggressive tannins keep everything in place. A very long finish leaves you craving for more. Around 15% alcohol, but useless to say there is absolutely no touch of heat. (95-96/100) The wine sells for 200 Eur for a regular 0.75 cl bottle, making it the most expensive wine in the Roussillon region.

The event was a good opportunity for people to sample good Grenache based wines. Outside, the streets were full of young people celebrating Fete de la musique. Every year on June 21st, all cities in France celebrate Fete de la musique. At every corner young people were playing live music in loud speakers, drinking bear and partying. A very big antithesis of the calm and boring Bordeaux I was expecting to find. Unbelievable partying atmosphere and hundreds of young people just having fun. What a night.

(shot with my photo camera)

Thanks for reading!